Engine Bay Wire Tuck

ECU, Wiring, Sensors
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By teal_dx
- Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:55 am #51353
BAXTER_EJ1 wrote: Derbo pointed out to me that you're running a line from your VC to the catch can, and then a line back to your crankcase, right Teal?

So you just plugged the nipple on the IM that would lead to the charcoal canister and removed that whole assembly?

If I understand that all correctly, I'm still wondering about the consequences of leaving the nipple on your intake unplugged. :?


The thicker black hose on the catch can runs to the plastic nipple on the black crank case box.

If I left the nipple in the IM unplugged, then I would have a major vacuum leak.
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By BAXTER_EJ1
- Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:03 am #51367 That's what we figured, thanks for clearing that up.

What about the nipple on the intake though? The one that you normally feed from the valve cover? Is it left open?
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By BAXTER_EJ1
- Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:07 am #51383 :thumb: Now that I look even closer I think I see what looks like a cap on your intake nipple.

Gosh, all this talk of nipples... :oops:

Teal, from your paint job to your tuck and shave... [smilie=notworthy.gif]
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By whitedxi
- Thu May 15, 2008 6:09 pm #55515 started my wire tuck left side

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if the weather stays this nice I can start the other side aswell
still worried about the brake lines though.. Can they be placed more to the bottom of the firewall because my engine is not coming out so I can't really get to that section
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By teal_dx
- Thu May 15, 2008 6:33 pm #55522 it will be tough to work back there w/o removing the engine for more room. But yeah you can do whatever you can in the room you have to work. If you're going to tackle the brake lines, might as well go all out and relocate the proportioning valve if you're already back there bending brake lines, IMO.
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By hannibalhekki
- Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:37 pm #64140
teal_dx wrote:I've been busy trying to get this car done, but here's some update pics of the wiring :thumb:

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Got some power wire from a stereo shop...

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always crimp AND solder

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wired up the remote terminals. 4 ga goes to those, the main chassis ground, to the interior distribution block, and from the block to the starter. 8 Gauge is used for all the engine grounds, and to go from the power distribution block to the fuse box, and I used the OEM 8 gauge wire to go from the fuse box to the alternator.

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my poor man's Optima :hehe:


where did you get the terminals? the red and black on the chassis?
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By hannibalhekki
- Thu Jul 31, 2008 8:12 pm #64147 or these?

http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=8519

lol sorry i just don't wanna order the wrong one, they're kinda expensive!

im getting it from here:

http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult. ... egoryID=94

let me know if you see some like yours :woot:
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By hannibalhekki
- Thu Jul 31, 2008 8:40 pm #64151
teal_dx wrote:any of those will do. I got mine from Summit Racing, they were around $20 for the generic "Summit" brand ones.


can you give me a link? the ones im seeing are like $40+!!!

i think i found them!

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 4294843868 :thumb:

By joba356
- Thu Aug 07, 2008 5:25 pm #65054 Been a while since anyone replied to this thread but i have a question, Awsome work by the way, i did a mild tuck on mines and messed up somewher under the dash and had allot of ground problems, but i will use this as a guide when i take my engine out to try again, thanks.

My question is if its ok to lengthen the wires dispite all the commotion about the resistance or what ever it is they say about honda wires? I was held back by this because i thought i would mess up my wiring if i did and i think the reason i did mess up was because i did not extend them, now that i stumbled onto your site i want to redo it.
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By teal_dx
- Fri Aug 08, 2008 1:33 pm #65176 I had to extend some of the wires on the sides, the oned that run through the fender & to the wipper motor. The rest I did not need to extend except for the 02 sensor. rather than mess with the oem shielded o2 sensor wires in the engine harness, I made an o2 harness extension that plugs into the engine harnes on one end, and the o2 sensor on the other end. I would recommend not changing any of the wires that use the factory shielding. That would be the o2 sensor wiring & distributor. Anything else you can add a little if you need to.
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