Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Tue Dec 06, 2016 6:58 pm #361043
Civic_HatchSI wrote:Very cool build, I actually like the rivets its unique.


Thank you Civic_HatchSI… I plan on doing some more rivets over the winter but over here in Maryland it gets pretty cold.

Engine update
The motor is all together and running good with no cel's. The only problem I had was the high idle (3000rpm) but it held there steady and was not surging. I changed the iacv that didn't change anything, after that i changed out the throttle body for an h22 unit and that seemed to fix the problem right away.

Here is a picture of the bay, I still have some things to tidy up but this is how it sits.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By EconoBox
- Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:17 pm #361045 If changing the throttle fixed the high idle the small part on the bottom of the throttle called the 'Fast Idle Valve' had probably failed. Typically you will see two holes inside the throttle (one to the rear and one on the bottom) if you cover the one on the rear with your finger and the idle smooths its the IACV that has failed, the one on the bottom would be the fast idle.

I like the rivet ideas its kind of like the spot welds used for race cars. I'd be curious about the weight difference and strength it has vs spot welds.

My only concern is are you using some kind of epoxy primer or etch primer where you are drilling through the body? If you don't treat that bare metal it can lead to some pretty nasty rust really quickly.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:53 pm #361065
EconoBox wrote:If changing the throttle fixed the high idle the small part on the bottom of the throttle called the 'Fast Idle Valve' had probably failed. Typically you will see two holes inside the throttle (one to the rear and one on the bottom) if you cover the one on the rear with your finger and the idle smooths its the IACV that has failed, the one on the bottom would be the fast idle.

I like the rivet ideas its kind of like the spot welds used for race cars. I'd be curious about the weight difference and strength it has vs spot welds.

My only concern is are you using some kind of epoxy primer or etch primer where you are drilling through the body? If you don't treat that bare metal it can lead to some pretty nasty rust really quickly.


EconoBox I did put my finger over each one of the holes in the throttle body and it made no difference. I even opened up the fast idle valve and ajusted it but still no difference. I just think the throttle body was beat.

For the rivets around the rear shock tower I used under coating in the wheel wells and I plan on getting the inside of the car painted. The primer on the inside is just to cover up the bear metal from removing the seam sealer
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:03 am #361103 Just a little update… I started to tuck the headlight harness, fuse box, and battery. I have not finished yet and there is still a bunch of work to do but with mostly 30° days in Maryland you only can do so much…

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Everything is done on the passenger side, I just need to add the wire clamps.
I'll probably end up doing the engine harness somewhere down the line.

Here is the dash harness. I removed the radio and abs wiring (to cluster) just need to add some wire loom and it's ready to go back in…

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If I get some time this weekend I'll finish the fuse box and start on the battery.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By EconoBox
- Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:52 pm #361104 Good work!

Really going to town on cutting the weight... removing unused harness parts!

I've aways taken out that dash harness and re done it on every EG I've owned. I found that, at least in my case, the 'mysterious' rattle they always have in the dash is the cluster/dash harness as the zip ties sag from being 20+ years old. Some fresh electrical tape, foam tape where it passes next to plastic, and fresh zip ties work wonders.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Thu Dec 29, 2016 6:10 pm #361126 Last update for 2016

Finally got around to securing the harness on the passenger side.
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Also installed the positive bulkhead to get power to and from the starter and alternator.
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Now that I'm on the inside of the car, the speaker wires have been removed from the passenger door and will be removed from the harness, along with the ac wiring that I pulled from the bay into the cabin. I also took the steering column support, center console bracket, glove box bracket and the blend door from the blower motor assembly and sand blasted the surface rust off and painted them black.
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For Chrismas my buddy got me this tachometer.
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As soon as he gave it to me I grabbed a tape measure because I already had plans for it....

Power off
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Power on. The tach is wired directly to the circuit board so when you want to remove it, it comes out just like the stock cluster would.
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That's all I'll probably have time to do before the new year since I'll be going out of town for the holiday.....
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By TrailerTrash
- Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:03 pm #361137 dude that tach install is slick :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: but if i was you i would paint the trim black just an idea not bashing it at all

happy holidays man keep up the good work! :cheers:
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Wed Jan 18, 2017 12:30 am #361175 Since the new year has started I haven't had time to work on the car like I would like to due to the weather and a small vacation to Toronto.
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But since I have the whole hvac system torn out the car and sitting in my basement I decided to rebuild it. I replaced all the seals and all the foam on all of the doors in the blower motor and heater core assembly. I also decided to get rid of the vents near the driver and passenger doors also the one on top of the dash. I will still have the defrost vents, the middle two vents near the hazard button and the floor vent. I had one of my friends professionally clean the heater core. I also tested and lubricated all of the actuator so they slide smoothly.
This is how all the doors in the heating system look now.
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Here you can see where I made block off plate for the driver and passenger vents
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The center hole is for the vent that's on top of the dash I sealed that shut using the oem door.
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That's it for now...... next up is to finish tucking the driving side headlight harness.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Fri Jan 27, 2017 2:53 pm #361209 It's been extremely rainy in Maryland this pass week so I haven't had the opportunity to work on the car as much as I work like to but I do have a small update. I was looking threw the thenaritadogfight.com site at one of my favorite cars the garage works eg6 (picture below for those not familiar with the car)
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and noticed its pedal assembly. I though to myself I could mimic these, plus I could do it inside since I do not have a garage.
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So I removed the pedal assembly, brought them in the house and began to disassemble them.
I started with the clutch pedal, drilling out the holes, sand blasting, paint and reassembled.
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But I wanted to take it a step further and also started to do the same process to the brake pedal. I must have gotten Swiss cheese fever because I also did the mounting bracket. But here is the finished product.
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I know someone will say the the pedals are not as strong as before but after I drilled the holes and before the assembly was put back together, I had a 300 pound friend stand on them acrossed a 2x4 and the pedal arms did not flex at all.

The rain let up for a bit and allowed me enough time to finish the driver side headlight tuck.
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As the rain continued during the week I came acrossed a 1/4" thick 4"x16" piece of stainless steel plate. Guess it was time to make a custom skid plate for the exhaust manifold. I took it to work and had some holes punched in to it to cut down on weight. I couldn't get it to bend at all so I had to cut some grooves into it in order for it to bend. It's super heavy duty and I think if I did make contact with the ground, the ground would be more damaged. Here is the finished product.
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I hope to get some more done this weekend weather permitting.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:22 pm #361224
teal_dx wrote:I never thought of cutting weight that way - nice work!


Thanks teal_dx… I like doing mods that you don't see all the time.

So I wanted to give the wiring a break this weekend and do something else. So on Friday I picked up a set of certi-fit fenders. They were slightly damaged so I got them cheaper then normal which was fine with me, since I planned to cut them up anyway. Over Chrismas I received a set of backyard civic fender vent as a gift and have been hold on to them since.
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BYC makes a lot of really nice products and if you haven't heard of them you should check out there website. bycdesigns.co.uk

So I got one fender cut up and the vent mocked up, I still have to trim alittle around the edges.
(Fender is not bolted on)

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I hope to have the passenger side done this week.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:01 am #361230 Not much of an update, but I primered both fenders flat black and cut the passenger fender up.... Now the BYC fender vents are both installed, the certi-fit fenders are okay the don't fit perfect but I've seen worse. Only thing I'm not happy about is the gap around the corner light where the 2 prongs slide into the fender.
Here are some pictures of the fenders
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I also started working on a switch panel, still have more to do to it....
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Driv-it-hard
- Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:50 pm #361232 Question, on the fender vents, Do you have a plan in the future to make the engine bay heat vent though the fenders? Are the fender vents just for looks ? I like the idea and I am one for different .
They look different than I have seen.
On the lights , Are you using stock honda turn signals or after market ?
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Gram0401
- Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:49 pm #361233
Driv-it-hard wrote:Question, on the fender vents, Do you have a plan in the future to make the engine bay heat vent though the fenders? Are the fender vents just for looks ? I like the idea and I am one for different .
They look different than I have seen.
On the lights , Are you using stock honda turn signals or after market ?


Driv-it-hard the fender vents are for letting air out of the fender well. Here is a diagram of what I'm trying to say...
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As far as venting out the engine bay heat, I have one vent already and I plan on getting the battle craft vent for the hood also...
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The corner lights are after market but they fitted the Honda factory fenders perfect. Everyone calls certi-fit "sort of fit" because the fitment isn't as good as oem, I would have used the fenders I already had but there was a big dent in the driver side. I got both after market fenders for $40, so I guess you get what you pay for.
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Re: Gram0401 94 dx hatch running log

By Driv-it-hard
- Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:59 pm #361234
Gram0401 wrote:
Driv-it-hard wrote:Question, on the fender vents, Do you have a plan in the future to make the engine bay heat vent though the fenders? Are the fender vents just for looks ? I like the idea and I am one for different .
They look different than I have seen.
On the lights , Are you using stock honda turn signals or after market ?


Driv-it-hard the fender vents are for letting air out of the fender well. Here is a diagram of what I'm trying to say...
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As far as venting out the engine bay heat, I have one vent already and I plan on getting the battle craft vent for the hood also...
Image
The corner lights are after market but they fitted the Honda factory fenders perfect. Everyone calls certi-fit "sort of fit" because the fitment isn't as good as oem, I would have used the fenders I already had but there was a big dent in the driver side. I got both after market fenders for $40, so I guess you get what you pay for.




I like the idea of the vents on the fenders. My only concern is the splash gaurd in the fender area. Its there to keep water out of the headlight area and any electrical in that area. You planning to make some holes close to the vents to allow the air passage or to remove the fender gaurds completey ?
Those fenders are pretty good. When I painted my car , I picked fenders from Rockauto and there classed CAPA certified. They were $30.00 each before shipping. When I bought them , I bought both fenders , hood , radi support and front crash bar. Shipping came in on a freight truck.

Looks great so far !!!!
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