92 boosted SOHC hatch - new pic p.28

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92 boosted SOHC hatch - new pic p.28

By teal_dx
- Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:32 pm #64 Table of Contents
page 1: Phase 1 (2000-2005) pics, y8 mini-me swap, urethane bushings. New D16z6 build begins, Fuel System.
Body work: honda rust fixed, engine bay shaved & painted.
page 2: Paint Work in progress, pics
page 3: First pics of Paint Complete, Wheel whore pics
Page 5: Lowered a bit more, oem mud flaps
page 6: Pics with Polished HX rims on, Sway Bars & Subframe Brace, custom gauge cluster, turbo teaser pic
page 8: bad things happen in 3's. Replaced Rod Bearings, Head Gasket and Rebuilt tranny.
Also installed OBX LSD, installed a CF Hatch, test fit my 3" Thermal R&D. Some pics from summer/fall '08.
page 10Boosted! soon to be dyno tuned...
page 11First dyno tune vid!
page 12R.I.P. Garrett
page 13Turbo rebuilt, ignition issue solved, NEW PICS - 3 wheelin 8)
page 14Merry xmas pic
page 15Parked for winter
page 16New Shoes!
page 17wet sanded & polished = Rustoleum Army Green at its finest! Lowered more and Work Eurolines installed.
page 19Couple of pics: Fall 2010
page 20Yes I'm a wheel whore... TE37's for 2011
page 22compiled pics of my car with different wheels over the years
page 23Works sold... say hi to OZ Racing Starlights
page 25a few pics
page 26New battery & new bumper
page 27A pic from 2013
page 28New pic from 2014



Current mods
Body/Exterior:
JSP CF Hood
VIS CF Tail Gate (sold, back to stock)
DIY Army Green/Black roof paint job
Shaved & tucked engine bay
DIY Amber corners
VX rear diffuser (not yet installed)

Engine:
D16z6
SRP 75.5mm forged pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP Head studs
1999 D16y8 intake manifold
knockoff AEM fuel rail
AEM fpr
DSM 450cc Blue top injectors + resistor box
Motorola 2.5 bar MAP
Walbro 255 LPH
stainless fuel line, -AN fittings, inline fuel filter
Custom K&N for clearance
Auto to Manual conversion mount
OEM mounts urethane filled

Turbo:
Garrett T3 .60/.48 60 trim internal WG
Cast manifold
2.5" Spoolin DP
3" Thermal cat back
2.5" piping & FMIC
Hallman manual boost control
knockoff HKS BOV
Function 7 -AN downpipe flange & fittings
Oil Sandwich Plate Adapter
Custom K&N Air Filter

Si transmission:
OBX LSD
XTD stage 3 6-puck clutch
8 lb flywheel
braided stainless clutch line

Interior & Electronics:
EX Gauge cluster w/ Tach
Autometer Oil pressure, Boost, EGT gauges
Odyssey PC680 battery
slim push fan
4ga and 8ga custom wiring for electrical system
P28 chipped with Hondata S300

Suspension:
Tokico HP struts/CR coil overs
Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit
Energy Suspension Trailing Arm Bushings
Suspension Techniques 22mm front & 19mm rear sway bars
ASR A-Spec subframe brace

Wheels/tires:
polished 14" HX wheels
195/60R14 Falken Azenis RT615

2-piece 15x7" +18 r, 15x6.5" +23 f Work Euroline S2H Wide on 195/50R15 Falken 912's - SOLD

Forged 15x7 +32 OZ Racing Starlights on 205/50R15 Nittos

Brakes:
EBC Greenstuff pads (not yet installed)
EBC slotted/drilled rotors (not yet installed)
SS brake lines


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Here is my 1992 Civic dx. I bought it in 2000 with 100k miles on it. now it has 177k I paid $3000 and the guy threw in a free system! There was only 1 tiny bubble in the paint on the rear fender, and a couple dings.
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These pics are old, my dx is undergoing a full operation right now. I'll post those once it is complete :)

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old specs: 92 civic dx, auto, no options except power steering.
orig 1.5L block w/ 1999 Y8 vtec head, mild polish
99 Y8 intake manifold, 1995 Ex P28 ecu, 95 Ex Gauge cluster (has Tach!)
ARP studs, crank underdrive pulley, CAI,
Tokico HP w/ coilovers, Energy suspension master bushing kit & trailing arm bushings. Urethane DIY engine mounts. strut tower brace.
Ingall's fr camber kit, DIY rear kit. MassAir header, Konig exhaust.
ADR 16x7/ Eneiki 16x7 kuhmo 205/45/16

Here's some pics of what it took to get it to that point:

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y8 intake manifold

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y8 head & polished valve cover

for the mini-me swap: http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=10

Polyurethane master bushing set:
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http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=16

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Last edited by teal_dx on Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:18 am, edited 33 times in total.
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By 1993 Civic Si
- Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:10 am #181 Very nicely done...
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By teal_dx
- Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:08 pm #1397 a few teaser pics of what is going on as of lately...

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block bored .20 , honed, micropolished crank, eagle H-beam rods, ACL main & rod beariings, new oil pump & seals.

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SRP forged pistons

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8lb flywheel

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XTD stage 3 6-puck clutch

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AN fittings & braided stainless fuel line, inline filter, AEM fpr, ebay fuel rail (be sure to clean the threads before you use one of these)
Last edited by teal_dx on Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:15 am, edited 3 times in total.
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By Skyu_Ivy
- Wed May 23, 2007 7:08 pm #8627 Just curious. What was the approx. cost for your fuel system setup?
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By asianrob
- Wed May 23, 2007 8:17 pm #8639 hey if you want to get rid of your mudflaps let me know :D
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By LaMbErT*
- Wed May 23, 2007 9:49 pm #8649 Can't beleive i haven't posted on this! Looks clean, ive seen all th pics of the other build up parts and i must say, your a legend! :thumb: :lol:


Please make that your custom name :lol: :lol:
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By teal_dx
- Wed May 23, 2007 10:01 pm #8653
Skyu_Ivy wrote:Just curious. What was the approx. cost for your fuel system setup?


the fuel rail was about $40 (ebay)
the inline filter was $45 (summit racing)
3 ft of SS hose was $13 (summit racing)
all the AN fittings for the fuel setup were about $45 (summit racing)
the AEM FPR was $100 new (ebay)
and the liquid filled fuel press gauge was about $20 (ebay)

The only reason I needed to buy the fuel rail is because I had a y8 manifold and a z6 FPR. the z6 fpr didn't fit the y8 rail, and the z6 rail wouldn't fit the y8 intake maniold. So I got a cheap aftermarket one that worked with both. I ended up only needing about 1 ft of the SS hose, they also sell 1 ft sections. And you don't have to have a fuel gauge unless you have some mods and are tuning an adj. FPR.

So I spent about $250 (ouch) but you can buy everything you need for under $90 if you keep your stock fuel rail, FPR, and don't get a fuel gauge.

Also had to fix the honda rust before it got any worse:
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=24

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Last edited by teal_dx on Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:22 am, edited 3 times in total.
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By teal_dx
- Wed May 23, 2007 10:03 pm #8654
eg8ferio wrote:hey if you want to get rid of your mudflaps let me know :D


I dug them out of the attic, I'm gonna put them back on after the new paint :woot:
I had them off for about 4-5 yrs and I miss them now.

removing some weight on a 4° night:

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completely stripped shell:

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Last edited by teal_dx on Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:13 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By asianrob
- Wed May 23, 2007 10:12 pm #8656 oh well i'll go scavenge them from ebay lol nice set up
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By Bouli
- Thu May 24, 2007 12:49 pm #8677 nice :thumb:


like the color :lol:
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By Skyu_Ivy
- Thu May 24, 2007 2:43 pm #8678
teal_dx wrote:
Skyu_Ivy wrote:Just curious. What was the approx. cost for your fuel system setup?


the fuel rail was about $40 (ebay)
the inline filter was $45 (summit racing)
3 ft of SS hose was $13 (summit racing)
all the AN fittings for the fuel setup were about $45 (summit racing)
the AEM FPR was $100 new (ebay)
and the liquid filled fuel press gauge was about $20 (ebay)

The only reason I needed to buy the fuel rail is because I had a y8 manifold and a z6 FPR. the z6 fpr didn't fit the y8 rail, and the z6 rail wouldn't fit the y8 intake maniold. So I got a cheap aftermarket one that worked with both. I ended up only needing about 1 ft of the SS hose, they also sell 1 ft sections. And you don't have to have a fuel gauge unless you have some mods and are tuning an adj. FPR.

So I spent about $250 (ouch) but you can buy everything you need for under $90 if you keep your stock fuel rail, FPR, and don't get a fuel gauge.



Thanks! I Love the look of the inline filter an ss line :P I also need a new fuel filler pipe. Mine is rusty so i just want to replace it so i don't have to in the future! The earls fittings looks sweet with the anodized blue :D I think i might get some for my brake lines if that is possible!
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By ChicagoMike
- Thu May 24, 2007 3:00 pm #8679 Image
XTD stage 3 6-puck clutch

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I love the way a fresh clutch looks!! :love:
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By Skyu_Ivy
- Thu May 24, 2007 8:13 pm #8728 I have noticed XTD clutches on ebay.. but i never really heard anything about them... are they a good choice?
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By teal_dx
- Thu May 24, 2007 8:35 pm #8739 These are produced by another company, I think. I hear they are a little overrated when it somes to HP... I've also heard of people having quality issues with the stage 1 and 2. I've only ever heard or read 1 bad thing about someone with their stage 3. so I chalk it up to user error on that one. :D
It's important that you break in properly for the first 500 mi.
The stage 3 is rated @ 300 WHP I believe. I'd stay away from the stage 1 and 2 though.

Here's the shaved bay that pretty block will be sitting in: http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=91

before:

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shaved:

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painted:

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Last edited by teal_dx on Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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