Civic EG Forum for the Honda Civic EG 1992-1995

Shaved engine bay
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teal_dx
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:12 am    Post subject: Shaved engine bay Reply with quote

I had my motor out and my car needed a paint job, so I decided to put the time into a wire tuck and shave my engine bay.

A wire tuck is just cleaning up all the clutter in your engine bay.

Shaving your engine bay involves welding in all the open holes (there are alot more showing after a wire tuck) and then smoothing everything out to make it look seamless.

First thing to decide is how far you want to go. You can hide some wires, or go all out and hide everything! I went all out cause I was bored.

I'm almost done with this project, so this thread will grow as I finish everything up...

First remove everything in your engine bay.

If you are going the shaved route, you must weld in every hole that you won't need anymore.



I used a 115v MIG. You'll want to grind off the paint before you weld. Then grind down your weld flush with the area around it. Cover your glass so the sparks do not pit it. Be carefull welding near your fuel lines as well.



All the welding & grinding takes forever...


for the bigger holes where the battery & fuse box were, you'll have to cut a patch out of sheet metal & weld it in.

I relocated my coolant overflow tank:

I bent & welded the original bracket to its new location.


Here's my new "light weight" battery & tray I made



Tray installed (where washer fluid tank once was). The tray was a little heavy so I drilled those holes in it to make it a little lighter.



I used USC Icing, it is supposed to be more durable than regular old bondo.



Next in the shaving process you will sand a ton... untill your fingers are ready to bleed!!

Everything must be nice and smooth.

Also see I shaved most of those threaded posts on the firewall since there isn't much left to go there.


Then I primered and more scratches showed up so I went back to sanding.





and finally ready to paint!

first coat


2nd coat, then I took a break to sand a little orange peel before it got worse.










a few coats later all done!


Last edited by teal_dx on Thu Nov 16, 2006 5:20 pm; edited 2 times in total
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eghatch
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm im sure that takes alot of time and dedication!! lol

but well worth it im sure!
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1993 Civic Si
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sad

Can't see these either...
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solbrothers
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks good
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teal_dx
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, I should add that it was painted with aerosol cans! They work great for engine bays since they are small and easy to manuver for all the nooks & crannies. Just do a few light coats to avoid orange peel and lay the last coat down a little wet. The final pics are straight from the can - no wet sanding or buffing/polishing/wax.
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tgbastau
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So is this the secret color of your hatch? I don't remember you posting it on CSi... Cool
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teal_dx
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, Army Green (looks a lot like the much more expensive BMW Urban Green) Wink
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sihatch9508
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice job man Razz
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Hondelso
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

now come to hawaii and do that to my VX :-p jk my bone stock hatch isn't worth it atm
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UsJdmTuner
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good Job on your car man.. I love your Teal EG transformation and you are doing it yourself.. I wanted to know for a first timer, I have no experience with body work and would you recommend for me to buy a welding machine? and do the shaving and wire tucking for my EG ? I am really determined though and i know that if you bring it to Bodyshop, they wouldnt do a great job and on top of that they will charge you an arm and a leg..
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teal_dx
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had welded a little bit in school in a welding class before this project. I had never MIG welded before though. As it turns out, MIG welding is the easiest welding of all! I bought a Lincoln SP135, it was brand new from ebay for about $400 shipped. It is easy to use, first I practiced on scrap metal. Then I used it to fix a couple other things like a metal chair before I touched my car with it. I am better with it now than when I welded all the holes closed in the bay. I'm sure it would take me much less time if I did it again. Just be sure you have some experience before you start on your car. My welder came with wire, gloves, mask... everything except for the gas. You will need to get this from your local welding shop. They will rent you the cylinder, or you can buy one. I bought one since I'm going to always be welding on something. Then you just take it back when it is empty and they give you a full one in exchange when you ned a refill. a refill is cheap, about $40 for a large tank and it will last a long time. The way I see it, I can spend the $ on welding stuff and do it myself. I'll still be spending less than if I went to a body shop AND I get to keep the welder Very Happy
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UsJdmTuner
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh thanks for the info man.. Do you think the welding machine they sell at Home Depot is good enough? i think the brand is Lincoln something.. Im not sure if its Mig welding machine. Ive seen your work and it really looks good man.. im so jealous.... Oh btw, I saw a army green paint from Rust oleum from Home Depot. I dont know if its the same that you used to paint your engine bay. It looks nice man.. Keep us posted on that thread. Thanks again bro!!!
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teal_dx
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just make sure you get a MIG, very easy to learn to use. Also if you are just planning on welding sheet metal, a 115V welder will be fine. If you ever want to do any really heavy duty stuff like frame or heavy fabrication, the bigger more expensive welders use a 220v outlet. it is a special outlet like the kind that electric ovens and clothes dryers plug into. I like my small 115v because I could take it anywhere with a regular 3 prong outlet and weld. Which model were you looking at? I'll let you know if it will work.
Good eye you have, my bay is indeed army green Wink
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh im not sure of the model. I will have to check at home depot again. I know its around $380 range.. So the welding machine you have wouldnt be good for welding like Roll cage? and other fabrication for car?
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teal_dx
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Here's a pic, starting to re-assemble everything...


And here is where I put the Proportioning valve. It is on the inside of the firewall.


To answer the question above, A small mig like the SP135 could be used to weld a cage. The thickest metal would be where the cage mounts to the chassis. That might be the only area where a bigger welder would come in handy.
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