Topics that apply to all 92-95 civics
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By LaosToaster
#242809 i need help finding out why my engine check light went off after changing my trans fluids and axle(passenger only). it lit up after shifting from reverse to 1st gear, it jerked in a way i never felt before after that my engine light came on. i was able to drive it normally though after that. now i kno it would be useful to just pull the code, i tried to this morning but it just shows a non blinking engine light it stays on. and what sucks even more is that i cant even start my engine on again. last night i was able to turn the engine on and off after the CEL. but not this morning, i only hear my starter whine, i hear my pump go on for 2 secs then off, i see the engine light go on for 2 secs then off before starting the engine(keyII).

i did unplug my VSS then plugged it back on. but i dont think that would do anything. :? another thing that sucks is that i dont have a 7.5 amp fuse for my ECU/radio. so im guessing my ecu resets every time i turn off my car.

what do yall think it could be.
Last edited by LaosToaster on Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:50 am, edited 5 times in total.
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By LaosToaster
#242852 so i pulled the code. CODE 4. Crank angle sensor (CKP). what can i do to fix this?? :?
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By teal_dx
#242868 On OBD1 cars, the CPK (Crank Position Sensor) is inside the distributor. (may explain why it won't start) The easiest thing to do would be to spend $50 on a used distributor. Or if you want to dig in, here's some pics of the inside of the distributor: http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?p=223990

Not sure how that could relate to the right axle, but I've seen stranger things happen.

Be sure to mark the position of your old dizzy on the head before you take it off. :thumb:
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By LaosToaster
#242873 now that i think about it. i feel like this problem is intermittent. it cranked just like before when i "accidently" spilled coolant all over my engine, including the distributor( takes about 4-6 seconds of cranking before it starts) . got it to work again by shooting WD 40 and let it dry for a couple days, also had to change my spark plug wires. but this was like last month

i just got the engine started a few hours ago, with having trouble starting(4-6 secs of cranking like before), i have to give her throttle for the first few seconds before it can hold on her own, but it idles fine after all that.
im thinking its just coincidence with the axle and all.

i feel like if its intermittent it could be the plugs or the harness connections.

thanks for the help teal
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By chnzgoofball
#242874 if its really the cpk then i think the best thing would be to replace the dizzy either with a used one or with a new one the con with a used one would be that you wont know how long it would last but it would be cheaper
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By LaosToaster
#242877 yea i triple checked its code 4. yea imma see about getting another distributor. never changed one though. it sucks though im right in the middle of registering my car and all, just passed inspection yesterday too. its all good though im here to learn :)
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By teal_dx
#242911 when you take the old one off, mark it's position on the head so you can line the new one back up in the exact same position. That way your timing should be exactly where it was before. The rest is just plug and play. And the key only goes in one way to the cam so don't worry about it being in backwards. :thumb:
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By Ajax1989
#243361 if u need a new dizzy and wires

A1 Auto(on the site) u can pick the set up for 150ish bucks
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By LaosToaster
#243370 i already bought new spark plug wires a while back to fix my old problem, it was also a distributor problem but fixed that. but now i gotta see about the CKP sensor. from what ive researched, im thinking its intermittent and i have some sort of loose/corroded wire i needa check. but first before i switch dizzys i needa unplug the connector from the dizzy and test the resistant from X pin to X pin i forgot which one. ahhh i forgot the procedure lol :lol: i gotta dig for my manual sumwhere in my garage :headscratch:
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By LaosToaster
#243428 ok im pissed now. my car does NOT start at all, it only poops and shits while cranking. imma post up some pics and videos. i also noticed my timing belt is kinda loose, loose enough that i can twist the long end 90 degrees :x

i also noticed when turning my key to ON II, theres like a 1 sec or so delay before everything turns on( fuel pump, cluster, etc). i wonder why. :? never happened before.

its very frustrating sometimes i feel like just selling it,BUT i wont i kno better. i just want to drive it already, ive had this project since july of last year without driving it LEGALLY. only around neighborhoods and stuck with the stupid CEL on.

heres the timing belt pics
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i can actually flick it and it springs back and forth like a rubberband


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seems right, no slip here
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now im not too sure about these markings, what is this telling me? is the white mark suppose to line up with that circle on the block with the cam gears facing up?? (cam gears are faced up like above pic)
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now on to the distributor. i was gonna post a vid but my computer took a shit on me and wont let me upload.

do u think its time for a new dizzy or is it just my timing? damn i dont want to spend about another 100 i am BROKE!! i dont wanna play the guessing game and replace everything i think is wrong.

i hope its something simple though, i want this car on the road allready, it sucks though all this happened right when i got all my paperwork done and in order to drive it off. :(


EDIT: holy shit i didnt kno my pics were huge, forgot to resize :oops:
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By teal_dx
#243455 to check the timing you have to look at the crank pulley from just the right angle by the notches on the timing cover... kind of like how you aim when shooting a gun. It's hard to describe w/o a diagram, check your Haynes manual (I hope you have one, if not, it's the best $20 you'll ever spend)

Also triple check your plugs are in the right order on the distributor :thumb:
By greengoblin
#243563 The two little arrows should be pointing together and the 0 degree mark should be used. Doing it with no timing gun. It looks like your timing is off. Without a timing gun you really cannot set timing exactly at 16.5 degrees, but if you follow this your timing will be close to stock timing (16.5 degrees). I made a quick diagram in ms paint hope this helps.

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16..5 degrees will be the middle red mark and you will set it here, only if you are going to use a timing gun.

Hope this helped.
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By LaosToaster
#243567 I appreciate the input and the drawing :thumb: hmmm maybe imma take a second look that angle of the pics I took aren't good enough. But I think the more major problem is my distributor. The best thing for me to do is just replace it and see where that goes. I need to tighten up the tensioner but from the looks of it it seems that I will have a hard time doing that with the very little space I have in the engine bay and the timing cover is in the way. Gotta do more research. Mine main concern was why my timing became so loose :? (After CEL 4) And I thought maybe it screwed up my timing too.
By greengoblin
#243615 check your tension pulley bolt and make sure its tight. sometimes the bolt on the tension pulley can come loose. Most of the time, the CEL4 is an indicator your distributor is going bad or bad, but not all the time.

I suggest starting with the cheapest way first and move up from there. Start with your timing. Good luck.
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By LaosToaster
#243855 i looked at the stamp on my distributor, i think it says TD-80U or TD-81U i forgot which one. and theres only two bolts holding it in. Does anyone kno exactly which this distributor it came off of?