D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
By Wisconsintailtaggers
#354646 So my car is really irritating me. First I couldn't get it to prime the fuel pump. So I chased wiring around found a broken wire on the main relay. Fixed it fuel pump primed car started. Got home drive into the shop and it wouldn't start again. Fuel pump primes I have spark. If I unplug the two middle injectors it will start. With all four plugged in it will not start. Went and got injectors from the junk yard still the same thing happens. I need this car to run! Please help me! :x :x :thumbdown: it's a 93 ex coupe with a d15b7 car was auto at one time before I got it. Now it's manual. It's running a p06 ecu
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By Driv-it-hard
#354663 Wisconsin,

Dumb question, but I have to ask, The plugs that go to the fuel injectors. Are you connecting them correctly. I know they have the tab that secures them.
Have you check correct voltage ?
By Wisconsintailtaggers
#354672 It acted funny when i had that broken wire to the main relay. I fixed that car was great. Then I would go to turn off the car and it would kill the fuel pump car would turn off but dash lights would cycle back on like the ignition switch was sticking. So I put in a switch that I would flip that was wired into a yellow and black wire on the main relay to kill the ignition power. Flip it back and everything would be fine. Drove the car home disconnected the switch so I could just mount it. Went to go put the wires back on the switch and it wouldn't start. Main relay was clicking like wild when i would turn the key forward. Followed two wires that someone hacked in on the trans and wired them to what used to be the plug for the automatic shifter. Found those were rotted out fixed those and got the fast clicking to stop. Still no start. Now I'm at where I am now.
Last edited by Wisconsintailtaggers on Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By Driv-it-hard
#354674 Sounds like you have a rats nest for wiring.
I feel your pain.
You might want to invest into the Haynes repair manual from discount for help. That book has help in many problems.
I have the book at home. If you need a schematic in the mean while . Let me know and I'll look for it and scan it. Send it right over.
Best of luck
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By teal_dx
#354683 Yeah, wiring sounds hacked :(
Tracing bad wires is a tedious process... If you're good with a multimeter and reading wire diagrams, you could chase it down. Or replace the harness if it's too much of a mess to solve.
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By teal_dx
#354703 There's actually minimal wiring involved when going from auto to manual. Reverse light wires from 2-pin sensor on tranny to the big plug on the auto shifter and connect the 2 fat wires on the big plug to the clutch safety switch (or just connect them together to start the car w/o having to press the clutch down.)
Unplug the blue interlock box behind driver's dash. That's it.
Your issue sounds like it's more complicated.
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By Driv-it-hard
#354711
Wisconsintailtaggers wrote:So where should I start? I need help big time with this!


Take it slow and make you connector with painter tape. You can unplug and label that way.
I think the best thing would be to pull the dash and clean up everything that way.
There is a section on site on how to remove the dash.

That would be my route.
By Wisconsintailtaggers
#354926 There is no aftermarket alarm. I'm currently in the process of looking for other hacked wiring and i can't seem to find any except for splices made with butt connectors for tucking the passenger side
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By EconoBox
#354931
Wisconsintailtaggers wrote:There is no aftermarket alarm. I'm currently in the process of looking for other hacked wiring and i can't seem to find any except for splices made with butt connectors for tucking the passenger side


STOP RIGHT THERE!

The car is tucked?

Who did the tuck?

Honestly I've seen some horrible wiring jobs to tuck cars. If the car was tucked incorrectly you could have a cut and extended engine harness without shielding on your important wires, cut and extended under dash harness, cut and extended apron harnesses. This could be an electrical nightmare to go through. And you won't always be able to see the problems. I've had a tucked car be loomed/ taped up to look like stock and when I peeled back the looming the wires were simply twisted together without solder or heat shrink.

If its been hacked up I'd start hitting junkyards for clean OEM harnesses. It's one thing to cut and splice on a headlamp connector thats been cut off but to play with tucking a car and using butt connectors there could be all sorts of issues with grounds, shorting, and corrosion of the wiring.
By Wisconsintailtaggers
#354935
EconoBox wrote:
Wisconsintailtaggers wrote:There is no aftermarket alarm. I'm currently in the process of looking for other hacked wiring and i can't seem to find any except for splices made with butt connectors for tucking the passenger side


STOP RIGHT THERE!

The car is tucked?

Who did the tuck?

Honestly I've seen some horrible wiring jobs to tuck cars. If the car was tucked incorrectly you could have a cut and extended engine harness without shielding on your important wires, cut and extended under dash harness, cut and extended apron harnesses. This could be an electrical nightmare to go through. And you won't always be able to see the problems. I've had a tucked car be loomed/ taped up to look like stock and when I peeled back the looming the wires were simply twisted together without solder or heat shrink.

If its been hacked up I'd start hitting junkyards for clean OEM harnesses. It's one thing to cut and splice on a headlamp connector thats been cut off but to play with tucking a car and using butt connectors there could be all sorts of issues with grounds, shorting, and corrosion of the wiring.



I just tucked the passenger side harness. (Headlamp ground box corner light horn and fan). Fuse box i simply unplugged and pulled back though battery is moved to the trunk and the engine harness I just cut a hole in the fire wall and fed it through to hide the big connectors. So in a sense it's not "tucked" it's just re routed. The only wires I actually had to extend were like two of the ground wires that went to the box where all the other grounds went too. I made sure I labeled and numbered everything when I did that. That is the only part that I personally did. There are two wires that are connected a sensor on the trans that go to two wires on a plug that would be for what was the automatic shifter. Those are the only wires I have found that I am not sure on. But if you switch them the main relay goes wild or the Main doesn't click or anything if you disconnect them
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By EconoBox
#354960 I'd double check the grounds that you extended and crimped together. I'd highly suggest using heatshrink to protect those connection and soldering them to make sure its a good connection.

Also when the auto to manual conversion is done there are two wires under the center console that have to be spliced together in order for the car to start. I've seen these be poorly connected in several cars (ie: twisted together and electrical taped) if they come loose or a poorly connected they could cause your problems.