Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Wed Mar 30, 2016 7:42 am #358780 Hey everyone! I was wondering if removing my camber arms and then putting the same ones back will mess up my alignment. I have to deal with some surface rust in that area. Thanks!

- Wed Mar 30, 2016 12:48 pm #358781 I am assuming you are talking about the rear of the car. I you make sure the lock nuts on the camber rods are locked in place and your toe adjustment is also locked in place, then you should not have a issue to remove and then put back in place. I would not remove the bolts on the trailing arm and only remove the bolts on the frame. You'll have to use a small wire brush and have to cover the suspension before spraying anything. OR, you can drop the entire trailing arm with LCA , Camber adjuster and toe adjuster. Disconnect the brake line and e-brake and drop the entire thing. Again, making sure everything is locked in place on the adjustment.
Post some pic.
Hope this helps.

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- Wed Mar 30, 2016 1:37 pm #358787 Correct, I was talking about the rear camber arms. Can't post pictures right now because I'm at work. So basically, I don't want to remove anything BUT the camber arms and a friend said it might mess up the alignment but he doesn't know for sure. If you're curious, I will be posting pics in my build thread this weekend. It wouldn't bother me too much to get a new alignment if the toe adjusting screws wouldn't be sooooo rusty but that's another problem that needs to be addressed sooner or later. Thanks for the answer!

- Wed Mar 30, 2016 2:29 pm #358788 Your best there is to bring down the entire trailing arm w/ LCA and camber adjusters to better ensure your not messing up the alignment of the rear of the car. Would it better to drop it all and start from scratch ? If you going to be doing some rust repairs. is the car on the road now ?

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- Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:26 am #358795 Yes, it's my daily and my only car. I don't have the means necessary to drop the whole trailing arm assembly, I assume some power tools would be required. I'll do the disc conversion when I'll have the money, a friend already has the parts and a garage. Anyway, it's not a lot of rust, just a few spots in that area which can be easily repaired. Like I said, I'll post some pics this weekend if you're curious. And thanks again for answering

- Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:24 pm #358796 Rusty,
You can drop everything with your reg hang tools. I did mine conversion at home on jack stands and hand tools.
The one to remember is when you putting stuff back together, torque you suspension bolts. Put some pressure on the suspension and then torque.
Very important. you'll have stuff coming loose while you drive and that is no good.
Hope to see more of the car.

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- Thu Mar 31, 2016 3:09 pm #358802 Man I wish I could be as optimistic as you. Here are some pics that will show you why I'm afraid to remove stuff. If some of these bolts break, I do not have time and replacement parts. I'll leave the conversion for another time when I will also do the whole undercarriage which clearly needs attention.

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- Thu Mar 31, 2016 5:37 pm #358803 Rusty,,


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- Thu Mar 31, 2016 5:40 pm #358804 You'll need to buy about four cans or so .. I would apply one can to each side of the trailer arm. Every where you are going to remove a bolt, SPRAY !!!!!
Remember , when you spray , you must let sit for a couple of minute to let penetrate into the thread area. Also, You must first, tighten more the bolt then loosen. This make sure when you remove the bolt, it is well lube to come out and not tend to break on you. Third thing, make sure you are not using a impact tool... All by hand brother.
No pain no gain.
Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.

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[teal_dx]

- Fri Apr 01, 2016 3:41 am #358807 When PB doesn't cut it, get out the propane torch and heat the bolt up. The heat will expand/contract the bolt and break the rust loose. If you get some turns and then it starts to get difficult, tighten back up and repeat the PB blaster and/or heat process and try again. Being impatient can result in a snapped bolt. I'm in Ohio, I can tell you all about it lol.

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- Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:52 pm #358808

When PB doesn't cut it, get out the propane torch and heat the bolt up. The heat will expand/contract the bolt and break the rust loose. If you get some turns and then it starts to get difficult, tighten back up and repeat the PB blaster and/or heat process and try again. Being impatient can result in a snapped bolt. I'm in Ohio, I can tell you all about it lol.

The best key words, BE PATIENT !

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viewtopic.php?t=28277