- Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:27 pm
#59026
We never got the SiR here in SA so we couldn't just swap out the dials.
so here is a DIY i made on how to make your own.
How to make custom dials:
I take no reasonability if you F#@K up your car. Fellow at own risk. It takes about 3 days to finish you’ll see why as you work through it. And if you do mess up you’ll need to get your dials recalibrated R150 per instrument at speedo repairs in PTA.
I have already finished my dials so when you see the how to it’ll be of the white ones that are already in place.
Step1: Design the dials you want. Get them from www.dynamiitti.com/autodata/mpohjat.html and get some one that knows Photoshop to help.
Step 2: Remove the cluster from you car. Pic’s from an SR4.
Remove the screws.
Remove the emergency switch and the one screw hiding behind it. Unclip switch and clock.
Slowly remove the panel and place aside. It should clip out.
Remove the retaining screws on both sides for instrument panel.
[ing]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-2/1246499/DSC00333.JPG[/img]
Unclip the wiring harness and remove the cluster.
Take the plastic face off the cluster. Push down on clips at top, bottom one will just slide out.
Step 3: Now we get tricky. You need to measure the size of each instrument, but just a area your sticker is going to go NOT the diameter of the plastic piece that covers the front.
This is so you can take your designs you have made to a signage company and get them made out of vinyl sticker. I paid around R80 for my white black and red ones.
MAKE SURE YOUR DIMENTIONS ARE CORRECT!
Step 4: Plug the open instrument panel back in and start the car. Remove any needle rests and mark off where all the needles are with the engine warm!
Step 5: Needle removal.
Remove the retaining screws from the back of the panel
Then you can remove each instrument on its own.
Once the instrument has been removed take some mini long nose pliers and grip the center needle coz you don’t want that come out it just gives you crap if it does.
Now with the center needle griped that two flat screw drives and SLOWLY (I mean VERY SLOWLY) lift the needle off. Make sure not to pull the center one out with it.
Remove the face retaining screws and take the face off. Please do one at a time or keep all pieces form each instrument apart!
Step 6: Making new backing/face panels.
I went to Mr plastics and got them to make me 100mm X 100mm X 1mm clear (hfv? or some no scratch plastic that they have) for like R20. It comes with a protective sheet on it
Lie the original face plate down and trace it out with a very fine pen or liner. Don’t for get about the holes.
Once it has been traced then get it cut out. This is where the problem for most will come in for most. I used a scroll saw with a 1mm blade. It cuts very detailed and fine so I could cut around the bends. Laser cost far to much so try make a plan to get yours cut. I then just measured the holes that needed to be cut/drilled against the original face for correct sizes of drill bits and marked them off.
Step 7: Floating the stickers into place. Now that you have got your face plate you can now float the stickers on to them. Using the same idea as tint I used soap water to lift the stickers onto the face plate to stop bubbles. I lined the new face plate up with the old one to get the sticker to line up correctly then take a credit card and rap it in toilet paper to absorb the water and protect the sticker. Softly rub the sticker down and squeeze the water out from under it. Then take a hair dryer and just heat it slightly to make sure it is dry and will stick.
This is what it should look like now.
Don’t forget the ID 10 T lights. (idiot) lol.
Step 8: Refitting: refitting is reverse of removal.
Refit with out the needles for now. Refit the instrument panels and leave the protective cover off for now. Start the car and get it to normal operating temp. Refit the needles at the markings you made. Make sure the rests are still not in place. Once this is done make sure is all working. I fucked up my rev counter it starts at 3000rpm so it always looks like im pushing her to 9000rmp when its only 6000.
And this is what it looks like done.(with the dash still open)
And seeing as the instrument panel is out change your backing lights.
They pricy tho.R30 from autostyle and I needed 6.
Then that’s it done. Go wild with your designs.
PM me with any questions you have.
so here is a DIY i made on how to make your own.
How to make custom dials:
I take no reasonability if you F#@K up your car. Fellow at own risk. It takes about 3 days to finish you’ll see why as you work through it. And if you do mess up you’ll need to get your dials recalibrated R150 per instrument at speedo repairs in PTA.
I have already finished my dials so when you see the how to it’ll be of the white ones that are already in place.
Step1: Design the dials you want. Get them from www.dynamiitti.com/autodata/mpohjat.html and get some one that knows Photoshop to help.
Step 2: Remove the cluster from you car. Pic’s from an SR4.
Remove the screws.
Remove the emergency switch and the one screw hiding behind it. Unclip switch and clock.
Slowly remove the panel and place aside. It should clip out.
Remove the retaining screws on both sides for instrument panel.
[ing]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-2/1246499/DSC00333.JPG[/img]
Unclip the wiring harness and remove the cluster.
Take the plastic face off the cluster. Push down on clips at top, bottom one will just slide out.
Step 3: Now we get tricky. You need to measure the size of each instrument, but just a area your sticker is going to go NOT the diameter of the plastic piece that covers the front.
This is so you can take your designs you have made to a signage company and get them made out of vinyl sticker. I paid around R80 for my white black and red ones.
MAKE SURE YOUR DIMENTIONS ARE CORRECT!
Step 4: Plug the open instrument panel back in and start the car. Remove any needle rests and mark off where all the needles are with the engine warm!
Step 5: Needle removal.
Remove the retaining screws from the back of the panel
Then you can remove each instrument on its own.
Once the instrument has been removed take some mini long nose pliers and grip the center needle coz you don’t want that come out it just gives you crap if it does.
Now with the center needle griped that two flat screw drives and SLOWLY (I mean VERY SLOWLY) lift the needle off. Make sure not to pull the center one out with it.
Remove the face retaining screws and take the face off. Please do one at a time or keep all pieces form each instrument apart!
Step 6: Making new backing/face panels.
I went to Mr plastics and got them to make me 100mm X 100mm X 1mm clear (hfv? or some no scratch plastic that they have) for like R20. It comes with a protective sheet on it
Lie the original face plate down and trace it out with a very fine pen or liner. Don’t for get about the holes.
Once it has been traced then get it cut out. This is where the problem for most will come in for most. I used a scroll saw with a 1mm blade. It cuts very detailed and fine so I could cut around the bends. Laser cost far to much so try make a plan to get yours cut. I then just measured the holes that needed to be cut/drilled against the original face for correct sizes of drill bits and marked them off.
Step 7: Floating the stickers into place. Now that you have got your face plate you can now float the stickers on to them. Using the same idea as tint I used soap water to lift the stickers onto the face plate to stop bubbles. I lined the new face plate up with the old one to get the sticker to line up correctly then take a credit card and rap it in toilet paper to absorb the water and protect the sticker. Softly rub the sticker down and squeeze the water out from under it. Then take a hair dryer and just heat it slightly to make sure it is dry and will stick.
This is what it should look like now.
Don’t forget the ID 10 T lights. (idiot) lol.
Step 8: Refitting: refitting is reverse of removal.
Refit with out the needles for now. Refit the instrument panels and leave the protective cover off for now. Start the car and get it to normal operating temp. Refit the needles at the markings you made. Make sure the rests are still not in place. Once this is done make sure is all working. I fucked up my rev counter it starts at 3000rpm so it always looks like im pushing her to 9000rmp when its only 6000.
And this is what it looks like done.(with the dash still open)
And seeing as the instrument panel is out change your backing lights.
They pricy tho.R30 from autostyle and I needed 6.
Then that’s it done. Go wild with your designs.
PM me with any questions you have.
Swich: the sound i make as i pass your slow ass
Slow but still in front of you.
Speed Kills...Be Careful...Drive an EG
Slow but still in front of you.
Speed Kills...Be Careful...Drive an EG
enjoy
