Loaf31's Slow EG8 Build

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By Loaf31
- Tue Feb 10, 2015 5:12 pm #351771 No clue!! Could have gotten water in it at one point. My parents have owned this thing since 1993 so they could have tried to start it when the cylinders had water in it, and water isn't compressible. It can't be from the piston hitting the head because the valves are fine.
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By EconoBox
- Tue Feb 10, 2015 6:27 pm #351773 Looks good! I miss my Sedan its on jackstands all apart.

Nice to see another Florida person on here. If you ever are down near Tampa hit me up.

Also I saw you're looking at swapping out the pistons and rebuilding the motor? If you're interested in just getting a better engine I've got a full D16Z6 and a D16Y8 transmission I've been trying to sell forever I'd be willing to let them go pretty cheap if you're interested PM me.
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By Loaf31
- Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:05 pm #351778
EconoBox wrote:Looks good! I miss my Sedan its on jackstands all apart.

Nice to see another Florida person on here. If you ever are down near Tampa hit me up.

Also I saw you're looking at swapping out the pistons and rebuilding the motor? If you're interested in just getting a better engine I've got a full D16Z6 and a D16Y8 transmission I've been trying to sell forever I'd be willing to let them go pretty cheap if you're interested PM me.


Thanks man! Yeah mine has been on jacks for about 2 months haha.
and you hit me up if you come south of Jax!
I'm planning on re-using the block and just putting new pistons in. I just wanna drive the thing haha. But if I end up needing to swap, I'll call you! :thumb:
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By Loaf31
- Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:09 am #351797 Ordered a used set of OEM PM3 pistons, they're on their way from Hawaii, so they should be here sometime next week for me to install! :thumb:
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By Loaf31
- Sun Feb 22, 2015 6:53 pm #352161 Getting work done! :thumb:

The new rings
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Main bearing cap
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Bearings were in Pretty bad shape :thumbdown:
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Old (left) vs new (right)
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Prep for honing!
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Look how slick those cylinder walls are :thumbdown:
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Scored cylinder walls
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Before and After
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All done! :thumb:
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By Loaf31
- Sun Feb 22, 2015 7:39 pm #352162 Piston rings installed on new pistons
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new bearings ready to be installed
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By Loaf31
- Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:09 am #352235 GOOD NEWS
we got the pistons in! Compressed the rings,
lubricated the cylinders, Lubricated all the bearings, and attached the
connecting rods at the bottom of the crankshaft. :thumb:

BAD NEWS
The crankshaft wont move the pistons. :thumbdown:
We tried to put a socket on there and move it with a breaker bar, but no luck.
We could move it after we installed the outer pistons (Cylinder #1 and #4),
but after we installed the middle ones, it wouldnt budge!
Anyone have any tips? Teal_dx maybe? I wanna get my baby running by March 15th! :cry:
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By eg8civicJA
- Thu Feb 26, 2015 5:22 am #352260
Loaf31 wrote:Bump, help :cry:


I wish I could. I will bounce it off a few friends in the car world and will let you know if I get any positive feedback
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By juls1488
- Thu Feb 26, 2015 8:18 am #352272 did you plastigauge your clearances? sounds like one of the two middle pistons has either the wrong cap, or the bearing clearances arent any good.
make sure that you put the rod caps back in exactly where they came from, and not backwards. the caps are matched to the rods from the factory. mixed up caps will cause all kinds of issues. also make sure you didnt mix up rod bearings and main bearings.

some info here with someone who had a similar situation. http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/162275-crank-wont-move-need-help.html
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By EconoBox
- Thu Feb 26, 2015 1:35 pm #352274 Could be a few things.

Piston to wall tolerance too tight: Did you check this before installing?

Piston rings too tight: You have to push them into the bore one by one and check the clearance with a feeler gauge and file until correct in most cases. Some rings do come correctly sized for OEM replacement but I would still double check them. Also be sure the rings are installed correctly onto the piston. The rings have chamfered edges. The rings are usually marked with a manufacturing stamp on the top side if not the rings should be installed with the smaller side of the chamfer facing up (ie: like this " \ " )

Bearing clearances: Did you use OEM Honda bearings of the correct color codes? Did you use a generic set like Kings bearings? Either way the bearings, journals, and crank should have all been mic'd to check clearances or at the very least checked with a plastigague before final installation. If you reused the bearings see the next suggestion.

Torque specs: Did you overtighen the Rod caps or main caps?

A fresh motor should turn by hand at the OEM Honda tolerances especially if the cylinder head is not on yet.

For reference:
Coat threads with engine oil
-Rod caps: 23 lb-ft
-Main caps: 1st step torque to 18 lb-ft
2nd step torque to 33 lb-ft
(for d16z6 2nd step is 38lb-ft)
-Thrust washers are installed with the grooved side facing out
-Rod Bearing Clearance: (0.0008-0.0015 in) or (0.020-0.038 mm)
-Main Bearing Clearance:
caps 1 and 5 (0.0007-0.0014 in) or (0.018-0.036 mm)
caps 2,3, and 4 (0.0009-0.0017 in) or (0.024-0.042 mm)
Piston Ring end gap:
-Top Ring (0.006-0.012 in) or (0.15-0.30mm)
-Second Ring (0.012-0.018 in) or (0.30-0.45mm)
-Oil Ring:
D16Z6 (0.008-0.028 in) or (0.2-0.7mm)
D15Z1 (OEM Teikoku brand rings) use (0.008-0.020 in) or (0.2-0.5 mm)
D15Z1 (OEM Riken brand rings) use (0.008-0.028 in) or (0.2-0.7 mm)
D15B7 (0.008-0.031 in) or (0.2-0.8 mm)

Piston to block clearance: Ideal: (0.0004-0.0016 in) or (0.010-0.040 mm)
service limit: (.002 in) or (0.05mm)

Hope that helps you out. I would just take it back apart and do it again step by step. :thumb:
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By Loaf31
- Fri Feb 27, 2015 2:52 am #352289 The rings are all done to spec because they're made for PM3 pistons and I gapped them to spec. I torqued the Connecting Rod bearings to 23Ftlb. maybe the middle two piston caps should be switched, but I know they're not on backwards. thanks for all the help guys!
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By Loaf31
- Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:31 am #352928 UPDATE:
Got the crankshaft moving :thumb:
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