- Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:02 pm
#229
First of all, the standard disclaimer: I'm not responsible for anything you do.
Secondly, this is my first DIY post, so I will prolly leave some things out.
The main reason I opted for this upgrade is that we auto-x the car. We run in a "Stock" class (HS) which allows for very few upgrades. The front sway bar and bushings is one of the few. With the soft stock springs and 21mm bar, the Si has a Lot of body roll.
There are other allowed upgrades which would help the car's performance more such as R-comp tires, better struts, a cat-back exhaust, and even a larger FSB.
As this is our first season, I really wanted to "fix the driver" first before delving into the more serious (and costly!) mods.
Enough of the "why" and onto the "how."
First of all, raise the front of the car and support it with stands and chock the rear wheels. Set the e-brake, too. Remove the front wheels for easier access.
You'll need two 12mm wrenches or sockets (at least one wrench), two 15mm wrenches (at least one socket), something for a little leverage, and a torque wrench.
This is the part you'll need; I think it's the same for all EG's.
Here is the OEM end link on the driver's side. I've already loosened the top nut (12mm). The wrench is on another 12mm nut that serves as a spacer. There is also another 12mm nut on the bottom.
Once you remove the top and bottom nuts, you'll need a little leverage on the FSB to remove the end link bolt. I used a large rachet between the FSB and the frame.
Here's the old bushings/bolt removed:
After removing the old bushings and bolt, installation of the ES parts is a tad easier. Just install the bushings in the same orientation as they were in the package; put the tapered end toward each opening in the FSB and the control arm. I ran the supplied bolt up from the bottom, but you could reverse this. I also coated the faces of the bushings with lithium grease.
Notice the ES kit's bolt has a head, a spacer (instead of that goofy nut!) and a self-locking nut. The only difference is these are 15mm instead of 12mm.
After installation, just snug the parts. Helms says not to torque these parts until the wheels are on the ground. Do the other side, replace the wheels (and torque the lugs...80 ft/lbs.) and lower the car. The end link bolts should be torqued to 16 ft/lbs. I'd also re-check these after 50 miles (or so) just to make sure.
I drove the car several days and raced it yesterday. Under normal driving, the car does feel a little tighter during cornering. At the auto-x event, I can't say the installation improved our times, but the car did feel more responsive during hard cornering. I think the 13 year old, soft rubber bushings allowed for a little "slop" in the FSB.
Hope this helps! Lemme know you guys input!!!
Remember..."Civic spelled backwards is "civiC"
Secondly, this is my first DIY post, so I will prolly leave some things out.
The main reason I opted for this upgrade is that we auto-x the car. We run in a "Stock" class (HS) which allows for very few upgrades. The front sway bar and bushings is one of the few. With the soft stock springs and 21mm bar, the Si has a Lot of body roll.
There are other allowed upgrades which would help the car's performance more such as R-comp tires, better struts, a cat-back exhaust, and even a larger FSB.
As this is our first season, I really wanted to "fix the driver" first before delving into the more serious (and costly!) mods.
Enough of the "why" and onto the "how."
First of all, raise the front of the car and support it with stands and chock the rear wheels. Set the e-brake, too. Remove the front wheels for easier access.
You'll need two 12mm wrenches or sockets (at least one wrench), two 15mm wrenches (at least one socket), something for a little leverage, and a torque wrench.
This is the part you'll need; I think it's the same for all EG's.
Here is the OEM end link on the driver's side. I've already loosened the top nut (12mm). The wrench is on another 12mm nut that serves as a spacer. There is also another 12mm nut on the bottom.
Once you remove the top and bottom nuts, you'll need a little leverage on the FSB to remove the end link bolt. I used a large rachet between the FSB and the frame.
Here's the old bushings/bolt removed:
After removing the old bushings and bolt, installation of the ES parts is a tad easier. Just install the bushings in the same orientation as they were in the package; put the tapered end toward each opening in the FSB and the control arm. I ran the supplied bolt up from the bottom, but you could reverse this. I also coated the faces of the bushings with lithium grease.
Notice the ES kit's bolt has a head, a spacer (instead of that goofy nut!) and a self-locking nut. The only difference is these are 15mm instead of 12mm.
After installation, just snug the parts. Helms says not to torque these parts until the wheels are on the ground. Do the other side, replace the wheels (and torque the lugs...80 ft/lbs.) and lower the car. The end link bolts should be torqued to 16 ft/lbs. I'd also re-check these after 50 miles (or so) just to make sure.
I drove the car several days and raced it yesterday. Under normal driving, the car does feel a little tighter during cornering. At the auto-x event, I can't say the installation improved our times, but the car did feel more responsive during hard cornering. I think the 13 year old, soft rubber bushings allowed for a little "slop" in the FSB.
Hope this helps! Lemme know you guys input!!!
Remember..."Civic spelled backwards is "civiC"
