Appearance, Paint & Body Work
User avatar
By Hatch-O-Doom
#305967 Washers and Spacers under the hood piviot point.

Frankly I think this looks stupid. But to each there own...

Just unbolt the hood, and put some washers under the bolts, and bam you have a raised up hood...

In theory this is supposed let heat escape the engine bay faster...
User avatar
By bradleyg
#305974 My GSR swap doesn't quite clear the hood underneath so I put some washers on each of the four bolts that mount the hood to the hinges.

There are also these: http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Billet-Aluminum-Hood-Risers-P8354C325.aspx that give it a more clean look.
Personally i wouldn't do it if I didn't have to and majority of the people that do it have a swap under the hood from what i've noticed.
User avatar
By FG2_Andrew
#305976
Hatch-O-Doom wrote:Washers and Spacers under the hood piviot point.

Frankly I think this looks stupid. But to each there own...

Just unbolt the hood, and put some washers under the bolts, and bam you have a raised up hood...

In theory this is supposed let heat escape the engine bay faster...


That
User avatar
By TrailerTrash
#306016 i went to Lowes and got some thick wall ABS spacers and some long bolts.

But I have a reason for my hood to be spaced... my hackjob front end is so out of whack the hood rests on the top edges of the fenders without spacers. ive tried and tried to get it to line up properly but it doesnt work. so i just spaced it up. no rubbing and its harder to make out how crooked the hood to fender gaps are :lol:
User avatar
By Wicked
#306095 I had read a while back some guy did a test with his b18 on teg or civic idr which and it made no difference in heat dissipation I think it actually got worse. I wouldn't suggest it if you don't have a legit reason too (hood fitment issues), Also I'd only do it with a cf/fiber glass hood and some hood pins, because in accidents they tend to shatter and fold instead of crumpling like metal hoods.

I see a lot of people doing it for visual reasons ONLY. From what I read raising the hood creates a possibility of the hood busting off the bolts and flying into the windshield decapitating you ass in an accident. The hood pins would keep it stuck to the frame better and as stated above the cf would shatter instead of crumpling incorrectly and unlodging itself, plus the cf/fiber glass has less weight behind it so it would be harder to penetrate the windsheild. At least in theory.
Last edited by Wicked on Thu May 24, 2012 5:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By baconsauce
#306097 then Id go for cf hood before rise it up, lol
User avatar
By FG2_Andrew
#306130 never thought about an accident where the hood shot backward due to shitty bolts.. :thumb:
User avatar
By PGB
#306378
Wicked wrote:I had read a while back some guy did a test with his b18 on teg or civic idr which and it made no difference in heat dissipation I think it actually got worse.


Agreed, The only logic is to presume hot air rises but most of the engine bay heat is forced out the bottom of the engine bay to the calmer air currents on the underside of the vehicle by air flow from the front grille or bar.
The amount of air hitting the front windscreen and any decent speed pretty much locks heat in that would be escaping from the raised section leaving it to recirculate and find another way out.

I hope that made sense, It's late here lol
User avatar
By Eg6H2D
#306533
bradleyg wrote:My GSR swap doesn't quite clear the hood underneath so I put some washers on each of the four bolts that mount the hood to the hinges.

There are also these: http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Billet-Aluminum-Hood-Risers-P8354C325.aspx that give it a more clean look.
Personally i wouldn't do it if I didn't have to and majority of the people that do it have a swap under the hood from what i've noticed.


So u have a GSR (B18c) Swap i your 92-95 civic and it doesnt clear the hood? That's not normal did you use the proper engine mounts??

:?
User avatar
By bradleyg
#306536
EG6b20R wrote:
bradleyg wrote:My GSR swap doesn't quite clear the hood underneath so I put some washers on each of the four bolts that mount the hood to the hinges.

There are also these: http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Billet-Aluminum-Hood-Risers-P8354C325.aspx that give it a more clean look.
Personally i wouldn't do it if I didn't have to and majority of the people that do it have a swap under the hood from what i've noticed.


So u have a GSR (B18c) Swap i your 92-95 civic and it doesnt clear the hood? That's not normal did you use the proper engine mounts??

:?


I didn't do the swap myself, it was already in the car when i bought it. But I'm pretty sure they'are the correct mounts. They do have very stiff inserts though so i figured that's why it hit the hood a bit. When I bought the car it had the hood raised and I didn't like it so I took out the washers the previous owner had put there, closed the hood and boom a brand new dent in the hood from the underside because the hood hit the valve cover.
User avatar
By Eg6H2D
#306537
bradleyg wrote:
EG6b20R wrote:
bradleyg wrote:My GSR swap doesn't quite clear the hood underneath so I put some washers on each of the four bolts that mount the hood to the hinges.

There are also these: http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Billet-Aluminum-Hood-Risers-P8354C325.aspx that give it a more clean look.
Personally i wouldn't do it if I didn't have to and majority of the people that do it have a swap under the hood from what i've noticed.


So u have a GSR (B18c) Swap i your 92-95 civic and it doesnt clear the hood? That's not normal did you use the proper engine mounts??

:?


I didn't do the swap myself, it was already in the car when i bought it. But I'm pretty sure they'are the correct mounts. They do have very stiff inserts though so i figured that's why it hit the hood a bit. When I bought the car it had the hood raised and I didn't like it so I took out the washers the previous owner had put there, closed the hood and boom a brand new dent in the hood from the underside because the hood hit the valve cover.


Yea that shouldnt happen at all unless there is a longer bolt than normal on the Valve cover itself..
User avatar
By bradleyg
#306615
EG6b20R wrote:
bradleyg wrote:
EG6b20R wrote:
bradleyg wrote:My GSR swap doesn't quite clear the hood underneath so I put some washers on each of the four bolts that mount the hood to the hinges.

There are also these: http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Billet-Aluminum-Hood-Risers-P8354C325.aspx that give it a more clean look.
Personally i wouldn't do it if I didn't have to and majority of the people that do it have a swap under the hood from what i've noticed.


So u have a GSR (B18c) Swap i your 92-95 civic and it doesnt clear the hood? That's not normal did you use the proper engine mounts??

:?



I didn't do the swap myself, it was already in the car when i bought it. But I'm pretty sure they'are the correct mounts. They do have very stiff inserts though so i figured that's why it hit the hood a bit. When I bought the car it had the hood raised and I didn't like it so I took out the washers the previous owner had put there, closed the hood and boom a brand new dent in the hood from the underside because the hood hit the valve cover.


Yea that shouldnt happen at all unless there is a longer bolt than normal on the Valve cover itself..


What could it be then?
User avatar
By sensei
#311457 I've noticed my temp gauge stays lower now that I've installed some Password JDM hood risers. I did it because it's almost always 100-115 degrees here in Phoenix and my temps start to rise a bit any time I sit for a while with the AC on. They drop once the fan kicks in, but now the temps have been staying lower.

I haven't done anything scientific, but according to my temp gauge it works.