battery relocation(searched alllll night and found nothing!!

ECU, Wiring, Sensors
 Reply
User avatar

By 1-low-92-EG-Sedan
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:53 am #291140 ok so my next biggest question is...what is the most recommended gauge wire i should use for the starter...and for the fuse panel???

another question...some one from my job (he is very educated with automotive things...but idk if hes good with electricity...so i figure a second opinion is in need) he told me to run a wire with a circuit breaker straight from the battery to the starter...and then a wire from the starter to the fuse panel....would this be a bad idea or will this work fine??...to me it sounds fine and most practical...but i dont know much about electricity my self...unless we are talking car stereos :lol:
User avatar

By Apexracing
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:26 am #291144 I would use one wire to the starter and one to the fuse panel. Use a 4 gauge for the fuse panel and a 2 gauge for the starter. Since the starter is going to have quite a big load but only temporarily. Run a fuse on this wire, but use a fast blowing fuse. Run a distribution block if you want, i just like the unbroken solid connection approach. But for a 4 banger civic either will work fine.
User avatar

By 1-low-92-EG-Sedan
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:37 am #291149
Apexracing wrote:I would use one wire to the starter and one to the fuse panel. Use a 4 gauge for the fuse panel and a 2 gauge for the starter. Since the starter is going to have quite a big load but only temporarily. Run a fuse on this wire, but use a fast blowing fuse. Run a distribution block if you want, i just like the unbroken solid connection approach. But for a 4 banger civic either will work fine.


oo yu meant one wire from the battery to the starter and another wire from the starter to the fuse panel??? i thought yu meant a wire from the battery to the starter and another wire from the battery to the fuse panel..
User avatar

By Apexracing
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:44 am #291151
1-low-92-EG-Sedan wrote:
Apexracing wrote:I would use one wire to the starter and one to the fuse panel. Use a 4 gauge for the fuse panel and a 2 gauge for the starter. Since the starter is going to have quite a big load but only temporarily. Run a fuse on this wire, but use a fast blowing fuse. Run a distribution block if you want, i just like the unbroken solid connection approach. But for a 4 banger civic either will work fine.


oo yu meant one wire from the battery to the starter and another wire from the starter to the fuse panel??? i thought yu meant a wire from the battery to the starter and another wire from the battery to the fuse panel..


no thats not what i meant. get two wires! one 4g and one 2g run both from the battery. connect the 2g to the starter and the 4g to the fuse :thumb:
User avatar

By 1-low-92-EG-Sedan
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:49 am #291155 oooooooooooooo....i understand now..haha....you cold have just said it was a bad idea rofl...sometimes i get confused a little to easy :facepalm:
User avatar

By Apexracing
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:50 am #291156
1-low-92-EG-Sedan wrote:oooooooooooooo....i understand now..haha....you cold have just said it was a bad idea rofl...sometimes i get confused a little to easy :facepalm:


lol its cool blame it on the ny weather :thumb:
User avatar

By 1-low-92-EG-Sedan
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:54 am #291157 yea i just noticed...i didnt even read yur whole post before...just the first part...damn this ny weather :lol: :lol: :lol:

By Will_SG
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:19 am #291161 Just to contribute some information

The reason of adding fuse to the wire is to break the circuit before the wires gets overheated -> melting of sleeve -> short circuit.

Suggested fuse rating to wire gauge.

00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps

The reason why some people did not use a fuse, it is because the wire gauge they are using is so big that the car system will never able to produce. eg. 0 gauge in a civic with stock charging system and battery.

But it does not take into account, when there is accidental short circuit or when the wires are damaged (eg. squashed wires)
Last edited by Will_SG on Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar

By Apexracing
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:21 am #291162
Will_SG wrote:Just to contribute some information

The reason of adding fuse to the wire is to prevent the wires from getting overheated -> melting of sleeve -> short circuit.

Suggested fuse rating to wire gauge.

00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps

The reason why some people did not use a fuse, it is because the wire gauge they are using is so big that the car system will never able to produce. eg. 0 gauge in a civic with stock charging system and battery.

But it does not take into account, when there is accidental short circuit or when the wires are damaged (eg. squashed wires)



Great info thanks for contributing :thumb: Hope your stay here is long and full of good stuff like this

By Will_SG
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:26 am #291163
Apexracing wrote: Great info thanks for contributing :thumb: Hope your stay here is long and full of good stuff like this


thanx for the welcome :)
Been trolling in the forum for some time and got a lot information from the DIY section. It is time to pay back whenever I can ;)
User avatar

By 1-low-92-EG-Sedan
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:26 am #291164
Apexracing wrote:
Will_SG wrote:Just to contribute some information

The reason of adding fuse to the wire is to prevent the wires from getting overheated -> melting of sleeve -> short circuit.

Suggested fuse rating to wire gauge.

00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps

The reason why some people did not use a fuse, it is because the wire gauge they are using is so big that the car system will never able to produce. eg. 0 gauge in a civic with stock charging system and battery.

But it does not take into account, when there is accidental short circuit or when the wires are damaged (eg. squashed wires)



Great info thanks for contributing :thumb: Hope your stay here is long and full of good stuff like this


x2 :thumb: this answerd my next question lol
User avatar

By ExCoupe94
- Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:40 am #291166 The reason why you have circuit protection (fuse or circuit breaker) is because the wire might touch the body chassis or on the rare occassion the device being powered fails catastrophicaly. Chances are if a main power wire fails its because its 20 years old or the wire ran shorted out on the body chassis. Without circuit protection u run the chance of incinerating your car... seriously. Place the circuit protection before the wire has a chance to go through metal walls preferably at most a foot from the source, battery/ alternator (alternator is fused within the panel). If u are to run say a 0guage wire split, the rest of your car while running will have full use of that wire as u do not use your starter running. However it will work either way but u would hav to use two fuses(breakers) witb two wires.
User avatar

By bartman201
- Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:31 am #291298 i ran 4g wire and a regular battery. i had no problem at all.

Image

Image
User avatar

By Hatch-O-Doom
- Sat Jan 21, 2012 5:36 am #291304 Also, If you ever want to track your car. you will have to run a battery cut off swich on the out side...

It happened to me... I dont know where in the rules it is, but last time I was on the track with my battery in the trunk I was told by track official that if the battery is relocated to the trunk, it MUST have a cutoff swich to it... I dont know how true thi is but he almost kicked me off, I had to play dumb( I got kicked off anyway for running times faster then said and not having all the gear needed for the times :cry: )

But to stay on topic, if you run 0gauge from trunk to where it was originaly it should be fine with no fuse, I have done it with optima batters and never had a problem. I went into the positive terminal all the way back to trunk, and then used the trunk to ground the battery. it worked perfect no need for blocks, or anything else. just stock terminal, connector, wire, and battery box
 Reply
Return to Chassis - Electrical