ITR #00-1055 - "Lucky"

If you have anything other than a 92-95 Civic, post it in here
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By That One Dude
- Thu May 05, 2011 2:11 am #253750 Not so much on the :thumb: . I had to replace the radiator yesterday. End tank gave out a mile from my house.

I did get a Koyo copper core radiator for cheap from some dude on C-List, BNIB. Didn't realize it's a dual core until I got home and opened the box.

Fortunately, I looked up the part number online before going to get it.

And fortunately, the giant staples were still closed and the box hadn't been opened.

AND fortunately, it fit properly without any major modifications. All I had to do was take the bracket that holds the low pressure line right in the middle of the core support and take the stock airbox support bracket off.

The head comes off in two weeks as of today. Machine shop is only going to charge me $150ish to mill the head .003", remove 4 old valve guides, install and ream 4 new valve guides, and cut the seats for the four new valves.

Got my parts all ready in a stack in my room, and the ARP head studs are on their way, hopefully to be delivered either Friday or next Monday.
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By Apexracing
- Thu May 05, 2011 3:32 am #253758 good stuff bro im very happy you caught a brake. in for future updates.
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By BLaCkSiLo
- Fri May 06, 2011 2:03 pm #253944 good swipe on the radiator.. notice any difference in coolant temps or do you just have the stock cluster gauge?

i know when i got my aluminum dual core the temps dropped by about 20 deg.. could have been that the turbo had something to do with that... congrats on the pickup
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By That One Dude
- Fri May 06, 2011 9:55 pm #254015 I do still have the stock cluster, but there is a significant drop in the full operating temperature. Easily 20-30 degrees.
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By Eg6H2D
- Sat May 07, 2011 12:55 am #254035 Awesome deal on the raddd... you dont come accross tat too often. looking forward to the repairs. keep us posted!!
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By That One Dude
- Thu May 19, 2011 12:20 am #255811 Progress! Woo!

I took the head off yesterday when I got home from work and cooled off the engine. Took approximately 55 minutes from the time I picked up my 10mm socket and ratchet at 5:10pm to the time the head was on the ground ready for disassembly shortly after 6:00pm.

I work fast.

Went to get some dinner with a couple of friends after getting the head on the ground and separating the IM from the head (removed them as a unit for speed's sake). Then went to DFW airport to pick up my dad's car while he's in San Fransisco on business.

Got back home about 9:50pm, and started the disassembly process. Got the valves, springs, retainers, and keepers out by 11:00pm using a bad ass tool I bought online a few years ago. But I don't remember what website... Cleaned up and went to bed.

This morning, I was going to get up at 6:00am to finish disassembling the head to take it to the machine shop at 9:00am when they open. Too bad my brain had other plans for me. Woke up at 6:00am unable to see with my left eye due to a migraine headache. Took asprin and went back to sleep after calling in to work...awesome...

Woke up at 10:30am, feeling like shit, took a shower, went to Autozone for a socket, and then went out into the garage to finish the disassembly. Because I felt like shit, I didn't get the head fully disassembled until about 1:30pm.

Took the head over to the machine shop and was quoted $150 to have it milled 0.003", two intake and two exhaust valve guides, cut the seals for the four new valves, and a little extra port work because the guy doing my head work is cool as shit.

Got a phone call an hour later with some bad, but not horrible news. All 8 exhaust guides are worn beyond limits and need to be replaced, and the shop doesn't have a reamer small enough to fit in the OEM Honda guides to ream them out to size. That being said, I had them order 8 EX guides and 2 IN guides from their supplier because those guides don't need to be reamed out, and they're just as good as Honda guides. Then I went back to the shop to drop off the rest of the valves so he could cut those seats as well.

All told, I'll be spending $237 for 10 guides, milling, and a little bit of port work to clean up the little remaining flash from the factory. After all is said and done, the compression ratio will be 10.88:1, the ports will flow a teeny tiny bit better, and I'll have a fully functional ITR again. Saturday afternoon.

I CAN'T FUCKING WAIT FOR SATURDAY!!!
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By That One Dude
- Wed May 25, 2011 3:19 am #256680 Just so y'all know...

SHE LIVES AND BREATHES FIRE ONCE AGAIN!!!

Quick overview of what I did:

Tuesday 17May:
Removed the head.
Removed the valves.
Determined which valves were bent; #2 cylinder inboard intake and outboard exhaust valves, exhaust valve stem has a 10 degree tilt to it...

Wednesday 18May:
Removed the rocker shaft oil orifices.
Removed the rocker shafts and rocker arms.
Removed the lost motion assemblies.
Took the head to the machine shop and learned that all 8 exhaust guides were worn beyond limits, but the 6 intake guides that I didn't plan on replacing were still good.

Total work to be performed:
Mill 0.003".
Remove 8 worn exhaust valve guides.
Remove 2 worn intake valve guides.
Install 8 new exhaust and 2 new intake valve guides.
Cut the valve seats for all 10 valves.

Thursday 19May:
Cleaned carbon chunks off of the pistons.
Cleaned intake manifold mating surface.
Cleaned engine block mating surface.
Installed ARP head studs.

Friday 20May:
Recieved the head from the machine shop.
Installed the valves and associated parts.

Saturday 21May:
Installed lost motion assemblies.
Installed rocker arms, rocker shafts, and rocker shaft oil orifices.
Installed intake manifold.
Lowered head gasket into place.
Lowered head into place.
Torqued head to ARP spec @ 80lbf ft.

I ran into some trouble installing the cams onto the head. While trying to torque the cam cap bolts down, I managed to stretch the first bolt. When I pulled the bolt out, I noticed a small fracture in the bolt itself and commenced to break the bolt with the index finger, middle finger, and thumb of my right hand. SOOOOO glad that bolt didn't break off inside the head...

So I stopped working Saturday night at 10pm because of that bolt. Didn't want to try to go any further for fear of fucking more shit up due to my own fatigue...

Sunday 22May:
Got all new bolts for the cam caps.
Torqued down the cams.
Set timing.
Adjusted the valves.
Installed VTEC solenoid, water sensors, distributor, hoses and lines, and everything else that I had removed on Tuesday of last week.

Got everything installed and set perfect to start up Sunday night, then found that I was ONE EFFING HOSE CLAMP SHORT!!! I had no idea where it was, and it was 10:30pm by the time I noticed so everywhere was closed and my WalMart didn't have any hose clamps.

Monday 23May:
Got the hose clamp.
Filled the radiator.
Started the engine, and leak checked everything while bleeding the cooling system.

Small leak from the VC gasket and VTEC solenoid gasket, but that will be fixed this weekend. I still have a small coolant leak, but I can't find it for the life of me! It's not the upper or lower radiator hoses, those got replaced. Not the #1 or #2 heater hose, or the small length between the water valve and the firewall. Not the radiator itself... I'm going to do some more searching this weekend, or maybe tomorrow if I'm not too beat after work.

Otherwise, she drives great! Power delievery is smooth and predictable just as it should be from the factory. VTEC crossover is SUPER smooth. I can still feel the crossover, but not nearly as much or as notchy as it was before the repair.

I'm very pleased with the work done by the machine shop. Compression test shows 228psi across a four cylinders.
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By 94EJ2
- Wed May 25, 2011 4:08 am #256700 i dont know if your motor has the fiv on the tb but ive seen them leak a little bit on the side that comes from the head
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By That One Dude
- Wed May 25, 2011 11:31 am #256726 I'll check that tonight.
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By 1ACarlos
- Wed May 25, 2011 1:14 pm #256732 Nice
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