B16, B18, B20
By therealjcamry
#124815 Well, as a civic owner, I naturally wanted to make it go a little faster than what my stock D16 can do. I bought my car as a project car and currently using it as a daily driver till I have enough for the new swap. I basically was just going to buy the whole swap from PWJDM seeing they have fair prices and have good feedback. Anyways, my first swap I wanted to do was the H series, but was talked out of it by a few owners saying they have some glitches and can offset the cars weight etc etc. Then I made my mind to save up for the B18C. I was just talked down saying I should just go with a B16A, and use a B18 head. They said it is basically the head that makes the difference on the B series engine. Can anyone guide me in my best option for performance/price??? Or is it true that I can use the B16 bottom end and use a B18 top end. Thanks
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By JDM FERIO MAN
#124816 1st go to www.hmotorsonline.com and tell him Josh sent you and get a B18C sir-g/gsr swap and put ctr b16b pistons 0.25 Overbore in it and use a b16b head thats what my car has and it runs hard as fuck
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By Eg6H2D
#129830 the gsr head (p72) is usually best. due to the lowest risk of detonation. u can run "hard ass fuck" like homeboy said, but also reliable. do the pistons b16b, overbore .25. and a nice street tune. and it will rip down the road.. u can def make that b18c1 powerful...

hope it helps..
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By suspendedHatch
#129881 You got it backwards.

The B18C block has .2 liters more compression. But the B16 head (and manifold) flows the best. Some people swap their GSR head for a B16 head for more top end at the expense of low and mid range power. Sort of a cheap version of a Type R.

The GSR's low end grunt makes for a nice daily driver. And the engine has a lot of potential. It's only when you get into a really serious race-only build that the GSR head and manifold start to choke up.

Worst thing about the H besides it not quite fitting properly is the long gearing in the transmission.
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By That One Dude
#130471 There are mounts available from HASport and Innovative for the H series engine into an EG. They aren't cheap, but they won't break the bank.

And the problem with putting an H series engine into an EG is definitely fitment. The hood won't shut unless it's modified with either a bulge or a cut out.

The weight difference is not really a huge issue. Yes, the H22A or H23A are significantly heavier engines. Yes, it will shift the center of gravity (CG) further foreward. Yes, it's a better setup for drag than anything else (IMO). The H22A with transmission probably only weighs about 50-75lbs more than a B18B, which doesn't weigh much more than a D16. So you might be adding 100lbs going from D16/D15 to H22A or H23A, but it's a weight addition that can be combated with carbon fiber fenders and hood (A full 60lbs lighter than the factory stuff, I've seen and handled those parts. They're awesome.).

GSR head has the smaller combustion chambers giving it more risk of detonation if used in an LS/VTEC setup. In a B18C1 full GSR setup, the CR is 10.0:1. Perfect, IMO.

The B16 head does flow better than the B18C1, but it's the B18C5 (ITR) head that flows best of the B series heads. Granted, the ITR head is the same casting as the B16 head, but it was hand ported by hand picked workers in the Honda factory.

GSR/SiR-G bottom end with B16B head and pistons would essentially net you a stroked CTR engine that doesn't flow quite as well as it needs to in order to make the fullest horsepower potential.
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By Greasedmonkey
#130578 Stick with a stock GSR swap.

CTR head alont will run half as much as the swap, and the pistons arent as good as a set of forged ones. And they will cost about the some depending on wher you get them.
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By That One Dude
#130609 Agreed.

I might have a stock B18B1 for sale in the near future. Axles, transmission, shift linkage, and computer included.

I know it's only an LS engine, but at least it's a twin stick.
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By Greasedmonkey
#130725 I ve got a B18b1 i cant get rid of...