Exhuast, back box

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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Exhuast, back box

By LaMbErT*
- Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:34 pm #10870 Im wanting to get a good back box. Was looking at a mugen twin loop or a tenzo r venturi for cheap!


What one do you think would sit nice at the bumper, doesn't give shitty power results and what piping should i get? Mind my engine is only a D15b2 :thumbdown:
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By vtec_gloucester
- Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:45 pm #10872 if its just a back box and your getting it to go with the look of the car id get something cheap!

id maybe try powerflow or long life out and see if they could copy the style of the spoon n1

again, if its just a back box your going for it wont really matter what size pipe it is... also you shouldnt expect any power increase or decrease from a just a back box.
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By Graham
- Tue Jun 12, 2007 11:04 pm #10875 I want a mugen twinloop aswell, i know a guy in Edinburgh that has one, sounds nice.... ive got first dibs though :lol:
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By stefan
- Wed Jun 13, 2007 3:07 pm #10936
vtec_gloucester wrote:if its just a back box and your getting it to go with the look of the car id get something cheap!

id maybe try powerflow or long life out and see if they could copy the style of the spoon n1

again, if its just a back box your going for it wont really matter what size pipe it is... also you shouldnt expect any power increase or decrease from a just a back box.


I don't agree with that entirely, if you replace a stock backbox by a freeflow for example, the car gains a lot of low end torque, it will rev better and faster, I know this from my own experience a couple of times.

I must admit that the only right way to begin with bolt-ons is I/H/E, so intake/header/exhaust.
I also know that an English eBay-seller offers a header for an insane low price, ?50,- on the header and another... 25 or so on a decat.
So start with that, or even buy that cheap ass catback they have, it'll save you a lot of money AND you will gain some decent power.

Bouli has that cheap eBay header mounted and he's very pleased with it, and in a week or so I'll order a header and decat to (still stock header now with a noisy testpipe), and an el cheapo midpipe here in Holland.

You will gain a lot of power (about 40hp!) on a D15b2 with only these simple/cheap upgrades;
- multipointswap
- WAI with airbox, or just a CAI
- 4-2-1 header, decat, midpipe and backbox 2.5" all the way through (on a D-series it doesn't matter enough for the pricediff. if you buy a pricey DC Sports, or a cheap ass knockoff!)
- D16a6/D16z2 camshaft with an adjustable camgear, D16a6/z2 is the SOHC non-VTEC 1.6 from a fourth gen. Civic/Concerto)
- chipped on a dyno, or on the streets.

You will end up with about 130hp for prob. even under 500 pounds when you consider to high Dutch pricing.
eBay shop; Racerbits
seller; jdmhondaparts
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By LaMbErT*
- Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:44 pm #10958 Not really looking for power gains, just don't wanna loose power. And powerflow ftl imo. Thanks for the help guys but ill keep looking myself.
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By stefan
- Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:11 pm #10962 Ok :)
BTW, I've got a Tenzo R venturi style, perfect fit and I'm very happy with it.
It fits perfect on the stock midpipe, and perfect in the rubbers.
Fits like OEM so to speak.

Great sound, but is LOUD, as long as you keep a muffler in the midpipe and a muffled decat in stead of just a testpipe, it should be very very good.
Right now, I'm a bit concerned the cops will get the car of the streets...
It's probably 30-40dB ?ver the legal maximum (wich is about 89dB), and every 3dB is a doubling in loudness :D
So I'll be ordering a few new things that should get the decibels down ;)

If you'd like silence in lower rpm's and loudness in high rpm's, take the twinloop.
If you'd like loudness at all rpm, take the Tenzo R.
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By chnzgoofball
- Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:25 pm #10970
stefan wrote:Ok :)
BTW, I've got a Tenzo R venturi style, perfect fit and I'm very happy with it.
It fits perfect on the stock midpipe, and perfect in the rubbers.
Fits like OEM so to speak.

Great sound, but is LOUD, as long as you keep a muffler in the midpipe and a muffled decat in stead of just a testpipe, it should be very very good.
Right now, I'm a bit concerned the cops will get the car of the streets...
It's probably 30-40dB ?ver the legal maximum (wich is about 89dB), and every 3dB is a doubling in loudness :D
So I'll be ordering a few new things that should get the decibels down ;)

If you'd like silence in lower rpm's and loudness in high rpm's, take the twinloop.
If you'd like loudness at all rpm, take the Tenzo R.


i had an apex n1 full exhaust before it was alright to loud for my standards, so i looked into the twin look and i actually wanted that but i couldnt afford it and one of my homies hooked it up with an oval-es muffler and i really like that deep quiet hum :D
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By LaMbErT*
- Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:09 pm #10988 See the thing is people i hate when people rally there cars about here when there engines are shit but there exhuasts are LOUD i don't see the point i just want a really nice sounding exhaust not something that sound like its fartin aww the time :lol: And i want it to have a bit of a design to it and sit flush. Ill need to shop around and TRY and get videos of d15's with exhausts
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By civicnation93
- Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:54 am #11012
LaMbErT* wrote:Not really looking for power gains, just don't wanna loose power. And powerflow ftl imo. Thanks for the help guys but ill keep looking myself.


.....pussy lol jk
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By stefan
- Sun Jun 17, 2007 11:01 pm #11340
B. SOME EXHAUST MYTHS TO DEBUNK FROM BEGINNERS

1. Myth 1: The Obsession Over Exhaust Sound Quality: "What Makes A Good Sounding Exhaust?" AND "It Sounds Loud. So It Must Make a Lot of Power!"


quote:
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The Exhaust Noise is the most common sound source of engine noises, and is usually 10 to 15dB higher than the overall noise level of the engine. The exhaust is of high temperature (800 to l000??) and high pressure (3 to 4 barometric pressures). The exhaust process is divided into two stages: free exhaust and forced exhaust. The exhaust gas spews out of the exhaust valve and enters into the muffler along the exhaust manifold before draining into the atmosphere from the tail pipe. This process yields wide band exhaust noise.


The exhaust noise contains complex noise elements, including the exhaust noise with a base frequency measured in the number of exhausts in unit time, the resonance noise of the gas column in the pipe, the gas stream blowing noise at the exhaust manifold, the exhaust gas jetting and impact noise, the Helmholtz resonance noise of the cylinder, the Karman eddy noise and the turbulent noise inside the exhaust system.


Key factors deciding the exhaust noise of the engine includes the cylinder pressure, the exhaust valve diameter, the discharge capacity of the engine and the opening characteristic of the exhaust valve. For one same engine, the rotation speed and the loading of the engine are among the most key factors that contribute to the exhaust noise.


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Loudness does not equate to power gain...loudness AND SOUND QUALITY depends on these:

- muffler length and size (volume or displacement: a bigger can is quieter),

- having a resonator pipe (no resonator = coffee can or bee hive and loud),

- length of the resonator pipe (longer is quieter),

- the type of sound absorption material in the muffler (glasspacks suck, they melt),

- whether the pipe inside the muffler has louvers or holes (holes are quieter and flow better),

- exhaust tip size/length (big tip is loud),

- the exhaust's design (3 types as described above).

So when you shop around, compare and ask about these features that affect sound quality. The more features, the better the sound.

Straight-through designs with a resonator, or a chambered design, or a twin-pass design are quieter than a straight-through design without a silencer cone or resonator. Having no resonator ensures a coffee can sound. Straight-through resonators that have the same ID as the rest of the exhaust tubing is better for performance. The number of passes through the muffler, like in the quieter 2-pass Mugen or Hy-Tech exhausts, determine how quiet an exhaust is.

If you want a non-coffee can quiet throaty sound, look for the exhaust design characteristics I have listed..a longer muffler and having a resonator are good starting points. Power depends on how the exhaust works with the header collector size and catalytic converter size, to help maintain a high exhaust gas velocity compared to the amount of fresh air you are dumping into the engine...most experts agree that the exhaust flow should be at least 70-85% of the intake flow (if it's more than this...even better). So for exhausts as related to power?:

remember, please pay attention to diameter, diameter, diameter that will suit your hp goal.

A big newbie misconception: My exhaust is loud so it must be great!

2. Myth 2: Big huge diameter tips are better.

You design the tip size to fascilitate where you want the bulk of your power to be along the rpm band. Bigger tips tend to push the peak hp up but at some cost to lower rpm power.Changing tip size affects the pitch of the exhaust note. Bigger tips have a lower tone. Don't make the exhaust tip, even a resonated one, your focus of attention. It plays a minimal role in your system's performance gains.


Part of a 5 page article on 'exhaust design affects on engine power', source; Team-Integra.net
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By asianrob
- Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:21 am #11358 OBX twin loop or the Netamei Twin loop just like the Mugen :D sounds great too i had both of em
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By LaMbErT*
- Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:25 pm #11367 Cheers for that stefan and im not that much of a newbie to think "awww man thats pure loud, must be a fast yin" All my mates have LOUD exhausts and it pisses me off because there cars aint fast!!! My eg may just be faster than all of them but im not going to put a huge exhaust on it to make it sound faster! :x
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By teal_dx
- Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:28 pm #11397 well said... loud big tips were cool 7 years ago. Now the companies are offering more stealth systems that still flow well. Ebay mufflers have cheap material that burns out most of the time = LOUD

When buying a muffler, you get what you pay for is a good rule. A used name brand stainless system is a good option too.
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By LaMbErT*
- Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:16 pm #11409 You get what you pay for when you buy anything tbh unless its egay sometimes your paying rediculous amounts for total pish!
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By stefan
- Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:24 pm #11426 Or you don't pay alot, and still get premium goods.
All it takes is a couple of guys who have good experience with a certain brand, get in early before it get's well known and prices go skyhigh.

I do own a fartcannon, the Tenzo, but I'm thinking about getting an OBX twinpass.
Just bought a ss midpipe including a freeflow muffler in the middle, and in a week I'll be ordering a muffled decat, and a 4-2-1 cheapish header from egay.
My experience is that, tho the diameter increases, exhaustsound volume decreases, I can't wait!!

All I can say, fartcannon's FTL.
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