Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:32 am #338140 Next order; OEM Gathers optional tweeters from New Zealand. I thought to test if i could revive the door cards with these. If not, then I have to try to find a door cards that dont have holes for aftermarket tweeters. The problem is that the previous owner installed the aftermarket tweeters to wrong location thats way of from the original Acoustic Research installation point. Thats why i needed to improvise and thats one of the reasons why i ordered 4D Gathers tweeters instead of 2/3D ones. (4D versions are much more slimmer than 2/3Ds)

Gathers:



Acoustic Research:



The set that i ordered is missing the tweeter grills. But that isnt a problem cause I will install aftermarket tweeters and use their grills Here is a pic about the differences between 2/3D and 4D versions:

Gathers 4D:



Gathers 2/3D:



Then I installed the Coupe third brake light:





I thought that what could I do to those aftermarket speaker holes.



In this case i was lucky. The holes are safely inside the original Acoustic Research speaker cover, so i just need to get these:



And these to get a clean install



Here is a pic that shows the factory holes:



Here is couple pics about the brake light, the rear window is scratched and it has a 5% tint on it:

- Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:38 pm #338608 Okay, so I disassembled the heater box and cleaned it up:



Then i routed the parking poles harness and optical cable from here (also Power Folding Heated Mirrors and ITR Spec98 ABS Harness will go from there:





And wire tucking, again:









Then i removed the Automatic Climate Control from my SuperBlack and started to install it to this Coupe.

Heaterbox with Auto AC, RHD to LHD modded air mix motor + water temp sensor:



I used some Arctic Alumina coolant paste between the sensor and heater core:





Then i needed to change the bezels, because 92-93 Civics have slightly different shade in some interior elements than 94-95:



Some randomnes; my cat Leevi



And then we are coming to this day, Gathers optional OEM tweeters arrived from NZ:



Grills are missing and one tweeter cone is damaged, but otherwise very clean conditioned. Those arent big things to me, cause i will change the tweeters to better ones and use their tweeter grills

Okay, then i went to my garage place to check out how these tweeters line up with doorcards. These tweeters are taken from 4D Civic. Now you think why i bought them and not the 2/3D versions?

Well, there is differences. 4D tweeters are installed upper and further than 2/3D versions. I need them to be installed like that, cause some of the cars previous owners installed the aftermarket tweeter way of from OEM-install location.

So, lets try it

Doorcards:



This is the location where 4D tweeters are perfect fit with 2/3D doorcards. There is no gaps in anywhere. The tweeter rings are perfectly lined up in this pic, but the pic is not good it looks like they are not lined up with each others:



This dent is the only visible thing that reminds me of those aftermarket tweeters. I cant ditch this under the tweeter ring, cause then the ring wouldnt sit with the doorcard withouth gaps. But i can get this dent up. Soap water and heat is the right recepy and i will do it someday when i have more time



And here is OEM 2/3D tweeter hole highlighted. If i would have installed tweeters there, the aftermarket tweeter holes would have been visible:



Then i drawed some lines, cut the vinyl away and started drilling:





Test fit, tweeters look more grey than they really are, must be something to do with the flash:



Different angles:





And just for a reference; here is installation point for Sedan:



And here Coupe/HB:



In my opinion this custom work worked out perfectly! They dont look so bulky as 2/3D versions, they are higher, better aimed and the most important; they cover up the aftermarket tweeter holes perfectly and there is no gaps

Here is some disassembly done with the drivers side tweeter:





And here is just one test pic of how the Hertz tweeter would see behind Gathers cover:

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:28 pm #340944 Updates:

Shipment from Malaysia:

OEM BNIB Civic 92-00 Hood Insulator:







Honda Access Air Refiner:







I wanted to see what was inside, so I disassembled it:



Then I ordered Toyota 4Runner/Camry charcoal pollen filter from ebay which has nearly correct thickness for this use.

Installation:

Couple of "shims" before bracket:



Bracket installed:







Tweeters:





My alarms remote

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:29 pm #340945 Then I ordered Integra Type-R Spec 98 main harness with ABS for my custom ABS-retrofit and it came pretty quickly from UK:

DC2 harnesses in a box:



Carefully removing the ABS harness from the main harness:



I managed to remove the ABS main harness pretty neatly from the main harness. Only couple of wires are attached to main harness and they are pictured in here:

GRN/WHT, Brake switch signal:



BRN, Service check connector signal:



...Which goes to the left:



BLU/RED: Warning lamp signal:



GRN/RED: Parking brake signal:



BLK/BLU (UKDM), the only wire color that didnt match to USDM schematics. USDM wire color is BLK/YEL: IG2.



Then i removed the ABS-computers second bracket and modified the integrated bracket to fit to Civics body:



Then the most painfully part, the hybrid version of EG and DC2 ABS harness.

I started to route rear ABS-sensor harness:





These clipses are used in these holes:



Rear ABS-harness was pretty much plug and play with EG/EJ body, I needed to remove some excess wire from it, but otherwise it was easy.





ITR ABS-harness in stock:



As you can see in the picture above, the harness that goes through the firewall (from under hood fusebox to the ABS-computer) is 40cm long. That aint gonna work with my Civics body and electronics. The main reason for this is that UKDM cars are RHD. So, i needed to de-pin all compatible wires from EG harness. The wire colors from ABS computer to the under dash fusebox are: BRN, BLK/YEL, GRN/RED, GRN/WHT, BLU/RED:



Then i needed to start thinking about other ABS-parts location so i could do a right length harness. I left open the thought about K-Series, and if this project ever goes to K-Series i think that its going to be a tight fit with ABS-parts. So, I will relocate the battery to the trunk to get some space for ABS-parts:

ABS fusebox test fit with double sided tape:





EG ABS-harness without major de-pinning:



I also got a OEM-front foglight wire from ITR-harness (my car really didnt have this wire!)



Is it true that DC5 ABS hydraulic unit has integrated ABS-computer? Cause i studied some DC2 vs DC5 ABS systems and they look very much like the same. I thought that if DC5 hydraulic unit doesnt have integrated ABS-computer, it might be possible to use it with DC2 ABS setup. DC5 unit is much smaller and lighter than DC2 hydraulics.





Comparison:







I measure every wire that i solder. I´m electronic engineer, but just to make sure everything works

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:29 pm #340946 As for a ABS-computer mounting, I thought to add some vibration damping to it. I used computer fan/HDD silicone dampers:





Unit installed (I still need to do some weather protection to it):



Wire harness will go inside a wire mesh and they are clipped together with optical cable and 4AWG main power cable:







ABS-rear sensor wires "meshed up":







I didnt want to cut wires if there wasnt need to, so I tucked excess wires behind the ECU. The engine bay wire harness clips to that orange connector and its removable without removing ECU.



Then to the other things:

Front fogs to the CF ones (screws will be swapped to black ones):





Trunk light swapped to the version with a switch ( ):



Heaterbox ripped insulation foams swapped to new ones (model "P"):



Cleaned:



New:





There is still lots of wiring work ahead...



Then we go back to the PFHM:

Adding heat wire to Mirror switch connector. Color BLU, PIN8:



I removed OEM-relay connector from the old wiring harnesses and then i just swapped a right colored wires with pin endings to connector housing:



Wrong BLU/BLK swapped to BLU. The right wire with gold plated connector was taken from old heater harness:





Then i tried to find a OEM-install location to Mirror Heat Relay, but then i thought to install it between the Power Folding relay and sunroof relays. I bought OEM Mitsuba RC-2201 relay. I had aftermarket OEM Japan style relays, but the clicking sound from them was annoying when compared to OEM-relay, so thats why i bought OEM.



(After taking this picture, i realized that under dash fusebox has a perfect spot for mounting this relay, so i swapped it to there.)

I didnt wire up PFHM harness like it should have been wired in installation manuals. I wanted a cleaner install, so i routed it in a side of cars main harness, between the insulation and a firewall. Thanks to Deschlongs help (again!) i managed to route the wires to OEM door connectors (with correct pins ofc), so all the wires are going to the doors are going through the OEM door connectors



Tablet is a must have in these kind of works. Expecially if its dark:



The relay that i received with the mirrors is from Prelude, and thats why its has its own channel to the right and left mirrors. I didnt use both channels, cause it works with singe just fine. I will use the remaining channel to control a retractable front licence plate

This is how i did the Air Refiner filter: I cut out right size of piece. Opened it up a little bit (so it gets little more thin) and then used a cardboard to do the sides to it. Just hotglued the cardboard to the sides. Even that its already a charcoal activated filter, i still want to buy a thin charcoal pre-filter to it, so it looks cleaner and the Toyota filter is not visible







I also bought STP Black Gold Bulk Pack. 4,5 square meters STP:s new sound deadening mat.

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:29 pm #340947 Then i did some prototyping of copying those Gathers tweeter housings:







I also bought a USDM door lock control module (94-95 model) to ease up the alarms door lock circuit. If i would have used my EDM/JDM door lock control unit, i would have needed additional relays to control my original door lock control unit. The USDM control unit accepts pulse signals from alarm and EDM/JDM door lock control unit accepts only constant signal. If the negative control signal is lost, the door lock will lock/unlock itself.

Differences:

EDM/JDM:







USDM:

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:31 pm #340948 Then I added automatic climate controls outside temp sensor wires (BRN, PNK) to the cars harness:



This is how the glove box side AC harness connector looks like:



Adding BRN:



Adding PNK:



Those are the OEM-wire terminal locations for outside temp sensor.

Then I did the passengers side wire tuck. Relocated all wire exept engine harness under the fender:





Then i started to finish up the Heated Mirror portion of the option harness. According to deschlongs schematics, heated mirror option uses one IGN2 slot from the fusebox, but the heated mirrors harness has a split, so the same slot can be used to something else. I started to build the OEM-looking split:



Blue tape, just like in OEM-harness i think? (Maybe deschlong can confirm?)





Then i cleaned my fusebox and installed OEM-front foglight and heated mirror relays. I swapped my Mitsuba RC-2201 relays to Densos, cause Densos are smaller.



Fuseboxes have these slots in both sides. I think that these are meant for the relays, so I installed front foglight relay to the right side and heated mirror relay to the left side:







Now i just need some Honda OEM-inline fuse holders to my options, i dont want to use generic ones, cause they cant be clipped to the fusebox to achieve a clean install. Can someone point me to the right direction where i could get those inline fuse holders with clip capability? I dont want my under dash look like this (pic when i bought this car:)

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:31 pm #340949 Then I ordered some parts (again):

Cluster with door-open indicator. Bought it from ebay cause it was cheap (auto, bad condition etc).





Power Folding Heated Mirror switch (The seller hasnt even shipped my full set, so i bought other switch from different seller. Just in case):



There is some fading in a power folding button, but i will make a perfect switch using my other power folding switch.

Then i ordered some parts for my custom ICU for alarm. Omron relays, diodes, pcb accessories etc etc. I will build it inside an old power door lock unit to achieve OEM-looking installation. I think i will install it here:



Then i bought some sensors to my alarm:

DEI 506T glass break sensor:



DEI 507M tilt sensor:



DEI 530T to control my sunroof:



Then I thought how to wire the aux channels:

Alarm channel: Rear defogger output. Devices: Rear defrog and heated mirrors. Required electronics: Omron SPST G6RN-1A 12V 8A relay & 2pcs 1N4004 diode. Function: When you remote start the car the rear defrog and heated mirrors are automatically switched on after the car has run for 10seconds and if its under 12 celsius degrees. The function can also be manually turned on from alarms remote if the car is running. Omron relay converts the negative output from the alarm to the cars +12v control. Diodes separate the heating mirror button and the rear defrog from each others, so when pressing the heated mirror button, the defrog wont turn on. Cars own ICU takes care the timing mode of rear defrog, so you dont forger it on. Because there is no space for rear defrog button, the function relays fully on alarms automation and manual use from alarms remote.

Alarm channel: Trunk release. Devices: Trunk release actuator. Required electronics: Omron G2R-1A 12DC 10A relay. Function: 2 second press from remotes trunk release button opens up the trunk if alarm is not armed.

Alarm channel: AUX1 (&Ground When Armed). Devices: Side window automation. Required electronics: DEI530T & 1pcs 1N4004 diode. Function: 3-4 second press from remotes AUX1 button opens up the side windows. Shorter presses open the windows about 3cm at the time. When you arm the alarm, windows closes. If you want to leave them open, just press AUX1 button one time before arming the alarm. The closing command is controlled by the alarms ground when armed output. Drivers side window switches have one touch up and down for both drivers and passenger side windows.

Alarm channel: AUX2 (&Ground When Armed). Devices: Sunroof automation. Required electronics: DEI530T & 1pcs 1N4004 diode. Function: 3-4 second press from remotes AUX2 button opens up the sunroof fully. Shorter presses open up the sunroof about 3cm at the time. Arming the alarm closes up the sunroof. You can leave the sunroof open by pressing the remotes AUX2 button one time before arming the alarm. Sunroof closing command is controlled by the alarms ground when armed and gwa is separeted from the other devices with 1N4004 diode to avoid any DEI530T backfeed. Cars original sunroof switches have now one touch open and close buttons.

Alarm channel: AUX3. Devices: Power Folding side mirrors. Required electronics: Omron SPST Omron SPST G6RN-1A 12V 8A relay & 2pcs 1N4004 diode. Function: Locking up the car, AUX3 channel sends the signal to the OEM Power Folding relay via additional relay, to turn the mirrors. And when opening up the locks, same thing happens. You can also turn the mirrors with AUX3 button and the AUX3 channel is fully programmable to either close, open or both commands. And it can be also disabled for winter

Alarm channel: AUX4. Devices: Leave home/coming home lights. Required electronics: Relay (I havent designed this function yet, so i dont know the type of the relay.) Function: When locking or opening the cars locks, the function turns on the cars low lights for 30seconds. (The time is programmable) The lights can also be controlled with remotes AUX4 buttons and the lights are timed so you dont forget them on.

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:32 pm #340950 Heres some random pics about the recent process:

First i tested the Heat button LED. I did the test with 9volt battery. BLK/YEL to positive, BLK to negative and the LED lights up when you press the button. When my install is finished, the LED will also light up (even if the button is not pressed) when the alarm is controlling the rear window defrog and heated mirrors, so you will always see when the automation is running or not



Then some basic job with door open indicator:









My clusters (two clusters not pictured because they are mounted to my 2 other cars):



I assembled the cluster to check out things:



Somehow i dont like that picture that looks like Lada 1500 from the birds view. The picture is replaceable, but i cant find EJ1/EJ2 "dimensions" picture that shows the top of the car Any help?:



I find out a speedo that has km/h and mph and the kilometers are almost exactly what cars km:s are, so i thought that why not?:



Then i did the low fuel light retrofit according to deschlongs DIY (thx again)



Then some fingernail polish:



Fingernail polish left some haziness to the window, so I polished it up with toothpaste (i didnt have any other polishing product so i had to use that )





Test with external light:



Then i cleaned up the "Mirror" text and swapped out the worn out folding button:





Then i added the diode to complete the Door Open test circuit behind the cluster:

This is how the cluster pcb looked like normally:



Diode circuit cut out from the broken JDM cluster:





Wrong circuit out:



Right part soldered to the pcb:



Cluster is not ready yet. I still need to order a SiR cluster to get a red/amber lit needles to achieve better look. OFC it would be easier to just swap in ITR or GSR cluster, but i want it to look as OEM as it can, and ITR GSR installs are not that clean.

[teal_dx]

- Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:30 pm #340952 Quality of this build is amazing! I'm seeing parts that I didn't even know existed

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage

- Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:57 pm #341082 this is some crazy stuff. how did you come across all these odd parts? the door adjar thing...nice touch. i'd like further info.

My EJ1 http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=24061



1989 accord lx-I - sold
94 civic ex sedan - sold
93 cx hatch gsr swap - sold
94 civic coupe gsr swap - sold
94 cx hatch d15b turbo - sold
94 civic coupe d16y turbo - current build

- Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:36 am #341107

Quality of this build is amazing! I'm seeing parts that I didn't even know existed

Hahah, thanks! I just do my best And its nice to own some really rare parts that others dont have. These 5 gens have a unbelievable factory/dealer options. Its possible to build just that kind of car that you like. Its just costly, but possible.

this is some crazy stuff. how did you come across all these odd parts? the door adjar thing...nice touch. i'd like further info.

I have hunted all these parts for about 1,5 - 2 years and ordered them all around the world. USA, Canada, Latvia, Poland, Germany, UK, Japan, Malaysia etc etc. Malaysia is a great place to find many rare parts to these cars

- Wed Jan 08, 2014 3:00 pm #341114 WOW! what an awesome build!

- Mon Jan 13, 2014 6:55 pm #341316 Wow how long is all this over?

- Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:23 am #341799 I cant say how long this will take. And i dont care. I just want to do things correctly

Updates:

Blue(ish) tinted mirror inserts arrived, also the heat pads and prototype pcb stuff and other different things.

I first thought to buy genuine Spoon Hydro Blue inserts, but there was couple of things why i dont like them. I read that they are (are they?) designed to RHD car, so the other mirror is convex and other is flat? Then some people say that the tape they have is very poor, and they are designed to install on top of the original mirror glass.

Spoon Sports Blue Wide Mirror inserts are a great upgrade to your exterior without spending a lot of money ( ). Instead of buying complete mirrors, these inserts go into your factory housing. *NOTE: EK version is only for the JDM folding mirrors. Will not fit USDM mirrors! Hurry! Supplies are limited.

They are also pretty dam pricey (142 euros + shipping), so I ordered same kind of blue tinted mirror glass from UK. The difference is that it cost only 20 euros. I wont get any JDM points from that in shows, but whatever. Both mirrors are convex.

I wasnt able to capture the blue tint any better than this, sorry:



Comparison:



Heat pads installed:



Finished product:



Then we jump to my custom "ICU" for between the alarm and car electronics.



Almost ready:



I still need couple of connectors. When they arrive, i will then coat the pcb and its ready. The green little connector slot is for rear defrog switch. Because i dont have space for rear defrog switch the system must be automatic. I designed that rear defrog part of the custom ICU so it accepts the rear defrog switch harness without any modifications. So if you some day want to put the switch back, just unplug the harness from the custom ICU and plug it back to the switch

Then we jump to the clusters. There were _many_ differences between JDM SiR and EDM/CDM/USDM cluster parts, so this wasnt so easy job to do that i first thought it would be:

SiR (black) EDM DXi/LSi/ESi (white) cluster bezel; notice that the clear plastic rings are missing and there is a difference in the gauge "lip" height (black bezel has a smaller lip):



Then to some modifications that i needed to make to get the needles lit up with OEM style: Every EDM/USDM/CDM gauge had to be disassembled completely to remove the gauge faces. Then the speedo and tachometer faces center hole had to be drilled bigger, so it would accept the JDM SiR clusters clear plastics, that controls the light to the needles etc. The hole diameters for the speedo and tacho is 11mm. For the temp and fuel face its 9mm. You also need to drill couple of additional holes to edges of the gauge faces, because otherwise the black faces wont center correctly to JDM SiR clear plastics. The additional holes are visible in the next pic. Holes are between the 100km/h and 110km/h mark and between 220kmh/ and 230km/h mark. White SiR and black VTi clusters have these clear plastics inside them. Other model clusters dont have them in speedo or tacho, only behind the temp and fuel face (and they are different type than SiR or VTi).



This pic shows the "JDM" clear plastic back:



Then i needed to lower 2 screw locations from the CDM speedo, because VTi/SiR gauges sit couple of mm:s higher than "normal" gauges. The reason for this is the clear plastics between the faces and gauges.

(I already snapped the parts before i took the pic, sorry!)



Before filing them even:



Quick test:





Comparison:



Tachometer clear plastic:

(In this picture you can also see the nylon washers that i needed to make. Otherwise the gauge face would have been dented when tightening the face screws. The reason for this is that these "normal" cluster faces have screws on front of them and JDM faces have screws between the face and clear plastics:



There was also differences between SiR and normal clusters door open indicator. SiR door open indicator housing is taller:



There was also differences in fuel and temp clear plastics:



I also needed to assembly the gauges to the SiR cluster frame, because the gauges with clear plastics wont fit correctly to the "normal" cluster frame.

Then some quick tests with old bulbs. Also the needles are not pressed all the way in, because i needed to calibrate them. Also the screws are not tightened and the front cover has some scratches so it looks like the light leaks somewhere (it really doesnt):



In my opinion it looks good enough. I cant do better cluster than this from OEM EG parts. ofc the amber or red leds will give some look to it, and front plastic needs to be buffed etc.



Comparison pics.

This is same looking (not the exact same) cluster than where i started:



This is how it looks now:



The best part of the donor SiR cluster is that it came with the low fuel light compatible fuel sender



Thanks for watching!