~250whp with a Z6

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~250whp with a Z6

By BLaCkSiLo
- Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:50 pm #88716 hey guys, i know this has been beaten into the ground but here goes...

i have a 94 ex with the z6 and it has about 170k miles on it so i'm yarding out my motor. i want to boost either a B or D but recently i have been leaning more towards the D because i have the engine already...

so my goal is ~240-260whp, i would build the bottom of the z6 with eagle rods, wiseco or vitara pistons, probably stock sleeves? and arp bolts. then the head would get machined with a skunk 2 turbo cam and perhaps port/polished.

either way, if i got a B or D series engine i would build the bottom so i would be out the 2k for the B series engine off the start, is it reasonable to think that forging the block i have now with boost later i could achieve a little over double the stock HP with the help of a t3/t04e maybe super 60 at 10-15psi?

sorry, still kind of learning but wanted to know in which direction to start heading and gathering info,

Thanks!
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By zeppelin101
- Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:44 pm #88729 So long as you replace the toffee con rods on the D you'll be fine.

Fully built, cam'd and T3/4 you can blow past 250whp I should think you'll have a very good platform to get more power if you want it.
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Re: ~250whp with a Z6

By teal_dx
- Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:05 pm #88733
BLaCkSiLo wrote:hey guys, i know this has been beaten into the ground but here goes...

i have a 94 ex with the z6 and it has about 170k miles on it so i'm yarding out my motor. i want to boost either a B or D but recently i have been leaning more towards the D because i have the engine already...

so my goal is ~240-260whp, i would build the bottom of the z6 with eagle rods, wiseco or vitara pistons, probably stock sleeves? and arp bolts. then the head would get machined with a skunk 2 turbo cam and perhaps port/polished.

either way, if i got a B or D series engine i would build the bottom so i would be out the 2k for the B series engine off the start, is it reasonable to think that forging the block i have now with boost later i could achieve a little over double the stock HP with the help of a t3/t04e maybe super 60 at 10-15psi?

sorry, still kind of learning but wanted to know in which direction to start heading and gathering info,

Thanks!

You've done your research :thumb:
JP, SRP are also affordable options for forged pistons. Stock sleeves will be fine, just check to see if your cylinders need bored .020 before you shop for pistons. With 170k mi, I'd bet you have some cyl wear. after boring .020, you'll need to buy 75.5mm pistons. With the internals + turbo combo, you will be safe to shoot for your power goal and then some.
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By BLaCkSiLo
- Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:15 am #88865 hey, thanks a bunch for the replies,

i'm kinda confused about the toffee con rods , but my plan is to yank the motor and send it off to a machine shop to get it honed and cleaned out, then fitted with the forged internals so i would have a solid platform that would be DEPENDABLE (for the most part)

only next question is what about the drivetrain regarding the tranny, clutch and axles? i have the stock ex transmission and an exedy stage 1 clutch already with new (stock) cv axles...

You've done your research thumb up
JP, SRP are also affordable options for forged pistons. Stock sleeves will be fine, just check to see if your cylinders need bored .020 before you shop for pistons. With 170k mi, I'd bet you have some cyl wear. after boring .020, you'll need to buy 75.5mm pistons. With the internals + turbo combo, you will be safe to shoot for your power goal and then some.


this is definitely along the lines of what i was thinking!
i wanna blow the doors off of some Si's that think there the shit with their B's.... ha!

thanks again,
James
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By teal_dx
- Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:29 pm #88918 You'll want to look into clutches, the stage 1 will probably start to slip at those HP #'s.

But you can always try it first and see how bad it slips, if it does.
Stock axles will be fine :thumb:
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By BLaCkSiLo
- Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:32 pm #89343 heh, alright, i'll look into that once i start pushing some of those high numbers, but for now... :P

the stock axles can hold that kind of power?

and other question about the bottom end, will the stock bearings/journals, etc be just fine for this HP range or are you going to want to replace those as well?


alright...as for the top end, the only thing i was thinking about is a mild port/polish because i heard the z6 head has good flow and i don't really care to raise the redline so the stock valve springs/retainers are fine to use?
the cam is my only dispute....do i want a higher lift, shorter duration, more overlap or less? i was guessing a skunk 2 stage 1 turbo cam or equivalent?

thanks again!
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By flyinryan122
- Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:51 pm #89346 If you swapped a b in you could make well over 250 on a stock engine.

If you do build the d series, after 300hp or so tranny's just get destroyed. Stock axles can handle 10second passes down the 1/4 mile.
I would recommend different springs and retainers, stock valves will be fine, and use honda factory rod and main bearings, along with honda thrust washers.

Compression wise i'd try to keep it around stock.

I am basing this info off of my build which will be getting tuned in the next month or two, going for right around 580-600hp if not a little more.
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By BLaCkSiLo
- Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:48 pm #89945 Thanks for all that info, it's a real big help... I'll try to stay below the 300 mark until something better falls in my lap as far a b series goes, right now I'm just trying to gather some info, thanks again

another question, how does 2 grand sound for a b series engine, tranny clutch and turbo? Clean...
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By CivicEG
- Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:39 pm #90589 D series FTW
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