Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:06 am #285466 Hello all,

I recently (past 2 weeks or so) started getting a Check Engine Light which only pops on after driving/idling for ~15 minutes. It goes away as soon as the ignition is turned off, and does not turn back on again until driving for another segment of ~15 minutes.

With the engine and ignition OFF, I shorted the ECU jumper with a paperclip, then turned the ignition to ON. I received two sets of codes - 17, and then 9. I know 17 is the VSS (which I replaced last year) and presumably this is still in the ECU memory as I have not cleared it (is that correct?). Code 9 is the CYP...

I recently replaced the distributor (http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?p=280059) and I had some difficulties getting the timing set right (that is to say, I don't have a timing light and pretty much timed it by ear). I have NOT had any stuttering/loss of power/stalling/etc. However, I wonder if this could cause me to burn rich or piss gas away, because I've only gone 100 or so miles on this tank of gas and the gauge is reading half tank (and I usually hit 200 before "half tank", then the second half of the tank is 100 miles ).

Does it seem possible for my timing to throw this code, or could it be the CYP itself in the dizzy? The dizzy is "new" but as noted in the post I linked, it IS a OEM dizzy from Autozone.

Anything else that could cause this code, or that I could try troubleshooting wise? I've reviewed a few pages online, such as this one (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2904710) but would like to get some expert opinions from EG :-)

Thank you!

[teal_dx]

- Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:29 am #285469 It should have a warranty from Autozone then right?

I'd return it, their dizzy's are known for problems. At least try another one if you can't get a refund from them.

Also set the timing with a gun before doing any more trouble shooting, getting your engine tuned & running right is the first step before you start replacing parts.

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
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- Sat Dec 24, 2011 10:13 pm #286908 Before u junk ur distributor make sure the resistance of the three sensors inside the distributor are within specs. I forgot how many ohms and what eires they are sorry i kno someone will chime in. But if the resistance are within soecs its not ur dizzy. It might be the wiring from the ecu to ur distributor. Good luck

- Sat Dec 24, 2011 10:43 pm #286914 Teal, it does have a warranty from Autozone but I believe they only "warrant" the ICM, not the coil or rest of the housing, so I doubt the CYP would be included. And I do need to get a timing gun that works with deep plug sockets

Laos, thanks for the input - per the link I posted to Honda Tech in my OP, the resistance is supposed to be 350-700 ohms, so I'll be sure to check that as well.

Happy holidays all

- Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:11 am #302773 A bit of a necro post but I wanted to follow up on this thread.

I finally was able to borrow an inductive timing light and checked my timing this weekend - turns out I was about 7 degrees BTDC. Sounds and feels better (though it's not like it was loping before or anything).

However, took it out this morning to go to work (relatively chilly, about 45°F) and halfway there the CEL comes on, so it's not a timing issue, but is DEFINITELY outside temperature related as it NEVER comes on if the ambient temperature is ~60°F or higher.

I read in a timing-related thread that the IAC valve adjusts the engine timing especially while idling...and right before my CEL gets triggered (usually when I'm idling at a stoplight) the idle drops ~200rpm and then bam, CEL. Could I have a dirty/faulty IAC? Is it worth trying to clean? I haven't found any information online connecting a faulty IACV with CEL-Code-9, but if the idle gets screwed up, maybe it could trigger it? If not, perhaps the IAT? But again, no connection found to CEL-9.

Gah, confusion and temperature-related issues

[suspendedHatch]

- Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:09 am #302905 Ignition timing is critical to performance, however, no matter how far off it is it will never set a code. When you get a CYP code that means either the sensor or its wiring are bad. This sensor is internal to the distributor, difficult to replace and not sold separately. Hence you must swap the entire distributor or go find a sensor in the junkyard.

When you set the base ignition timing you are giving the ECU a reference point. Ultimately the ECU controls the timing and will regulate it to steady your idle and prevent you from stalling. When you go to adjust the it, the ECU will dial it back. It's not until you max out how far the ECU is allowed to change the timing that you will see a change. This is why I come across so many Hondas with maxxed out timing. People do not know that you have to JUMPER THE ECU before attempting to adjust the timing, and then reset the ECU afterward (remove the 7.5A ECU backup fuse under the hood, hit the brake pedal to remove residual charge).

(If you learn how mechanical timing advance worked in the old days before ECU's it is quite funny and genius at the same time. Now we have a magic box that does all these things for us that was once done mechanically.)

The IACV does not adjust the timing. Only the ECU does that. The IACV opens or closes an air passage to allow air to bypass the closed throttle body so your car doesn't stall when you let off the throttle. The ECU will use timing first because it is much quicker at affecting the idle than air entering the engine. The IACV will never cause a CYP code (see sentence 2).

It is not uncommon for temperature to be a factor in engine problems. Temp affects expansion/contraction of metal and fluids as well as electrical resistance and will push something right over the edge of failure.

Should get this stuff stickied because I find that I am answering it frequently.

- Fri May 04, 2012 1:41 am #303775 Suspended, thank you as always for the super informative post.

Responding in order of your information:
* I'm familiar with the location of the CYP, having already swapped out the dizzy a few times. Just not sure everything it's connected to (thus confusion as to whether some other sensor could cause a CYP-code)
* I followed the code troubleshooting flowsheet (), multimeter showed proper Ohm range for the sensor (range 350-700, mine was 376 or so), which doesn't rule out the sensor being bad/half bad, but the temperature still throws me. Only thing I didn't check was the ECU harness.
* I did jumper the ECU while adjusting the timing, but I didn't think to pull the ECU fuse (Haynes doesn't mention it and I wasn't sure if Hondas stored the mapped information). I will be sure to clear it (following this process - http://tinyurl.com/ca3pyor).
* I wasn't under the impression that the IACV controlled timing directly, but it saved a few words versus saying, "The IACV adjusts incoming air to the motor based on signals received from the ECU via various sensors, which thus maintains the idle." So much for saving words :-D

In any event, at this point I'm chalking up the cold weather Code 9 to the CYP sensor in this Autozone distributor.

Thanks everyone for the input