Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Sun Apr 26, 2015 1:59 am #353426 Hello guys I have a 95 EG8 sedan and have a few questions regarding this swap. This is my first swap ever done so bear with me. I would like official information because there's a lot of false posts throughout the Internet. Can I use the d15b header? Also, what wiring needs to be done? I heard that there's some kind of conversion harness I would need. I'm using my p06 temporarily due to funds so I'm not sure what I should do about that. Thanks in advance!

[teal_dx]

- Mon Apr 27, 2015 4:43 am #353438 You can use the header
As for the wiring, I'd spend ~$100 and buy a P28 ECU from a 92-95 Si or EX. It will run on a P06, but it won't have the proper fuel curves. P28 will be much closer. Get one from a car that has the same type of transmission as yours. (It's possible to convert an auto ecu to work on a manual car, but requires very precise soldering.)

The ecu is behind the carpet on the outside passenger foot area. Looking at the ECU pinout, you'll need to run the vtec solenoid to the A4 pin.


Vtec solenoid

There are 2 wires on the Oil Pressure sensor.


on a stock D16z6




The black wire is ground, orange goes to D6 on the ECU




Looking straight into the back of the sensor, the wire in the bottom of the pic will run to the D6 pin on the ecu, the top wire is just run to the chassis as a ground. Use some connectors and heat shrink, do it right. If you can't get the harness clips to connect to the sensors, you can use a small butt connector and cover it with silicone as I did. I filled that back area of the sensor with silicone to make it weather proof.

Here is where you wish you had a 1992 hatch. All 92 hatches were pre-wired for vtec up to the passenger shock tower. Just look at the color of the wires for the A4 and D6 pins on the ecu and find them at the shock tower. Tap into them there and connect your sensors. Otherwise you will have to run the 2 wires through your firewall to your ECU.

It's easier and cheaper than replacing the entire engine harness.

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage

- Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:07 am #353439 sounds good for the wiring, big thanks! also,for the purge solenoid/charcoal canister ordeal, i'm not drilling and tapping my intake manifold, i'm hearing about a catch can(which i thought our cars already had one) would deleting the charcoal canister be easy? and i believe theres one more thing, will i have to take my wheels off to pull the engine?

[teal_dx]

- Wed Apr 29, 2015 3:25 am #353471

sounds good for the wiring, big thanks! also,for the purge solenoid/charcoal canister ordeal, i'm not drilling and tapping my intake manifold, i'm hearing about a catch can(which i thought our cars already had one) would deleting the charcoal canister be easy? and i believe theres one more thing, will i have to take my wheels off to pull the engine?

On a turbo setup, people often delete the charcoal canister (it functions under vacuum but not under boost) and put a catch can there, because it's convenient location on the firewall. The charcoal canister and a catch can have nothing in common other than being shaped like a cylinder.

The only OEM thing that could be considered a catch can would be the black crankcase box on the back of the block. It has a vac line running to the intake with a check valve to vent the crank case. The box helps trap oil blow by, similar to what a catch can does.




If tranny is staying, you might be able to get by with the wheels on. I've always taken them off to give me more room but suppose you can leave them on.

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage

- Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:31 am #353498 Okay. But what about the purge solenoid? Someone told me to hook up lines to the catch can instead of having it ziptied to your firewall. After the purge valve ordeal I have all knowledge taken care of.