10 amp fuse #15 keeps blowing

ECU, Wiring, Sensors
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10 amp fuse #15 keeps blowing

By 92gsrhatch
- Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:25 am #241401 so the fuse used to blow every time i drove hard or red lined but now it blows as soon as i turn my ignition switch
i really dnt kno what it could be. i have switched the cluster, ecu and hazard switch and still nothing

car is a 92 civic cx with 98 gsr swap btw

i need help!!!

By 92gsrhatch
- Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:19 pm #241471 the fuse controlls the gauges in the dash, turn signals and i dnt know what else

By 92gsrhatch
- Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:52 pm #241477 i have done that aswell. i put in a 30 amp fuse and it still blows.
i have taken off the dash wiring harness and checked every single wire and there all good.

the other thing i can think of is the ignition switch. its kind of broken from when it got stolen so maybe its not getting good contact. i have no clue.
i bought it this way so i cant really say if it drove fine before all that happened to it

By DanK422
- Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:55 pm #241490 If you replaced the fuse already and it keeps blowing, you have a short somewhere. You said you swapped the cluster. Might want to pull that out and check the connections.

By 92gsrhatch
- Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:00 am #241541 dash harness has been out already. i have gone through every single wire on it and nothing.
i replaced the cluster to see if it was it but it still did it with the new one
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By teal_dx
- Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:17 am #241556
92gsrhatch wrote:i have done that aswell. i put in a 30 amp fuse and it still blows.


Horrible idea... putting in a higher rated fuse means that you're gong to be frying wiring or electrical components/sensors instead of simply replacing a blown fuse. The fuse blowing means that you have a short.
Bad news is that you have to check all your wiring to find where it is shorting out. Find out everything that is on that circuit and start checking them one at a time. Also use a multimeter, after a while it will be cheaper than replacing fuses.

By cjw_89
- Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:10 pm #241637 Hmmm so it controls the hazards cluster and what? Seem to me that one of the jumble of wires thats powered by ignition is giving trouble . Pretty much like a cd player. Have a buddy remove his cluster and the bezel get a test light and check which wires are powered by ignition on his... Not constant! Once you find out which is controlled by ignition trace em on yours...



Other then that all I can tell you is;unplug your cluster, clock, if you have it and hazards. Turn your ignition ahead and plug in each till it pops. Once it pops go pin by pin and see which one is your pita. Be sure to label each wire,my meaning from pin by pin is to remove one plug in your cluster or w/e it may be.. Process of trial and error .... I'm on a cell so bear with the jumble or words

By nano1014
- Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:42 pm #241641 You have a dead short in that particular circuit, listen to teal_dx and cjw_89, they both have great ideas for troubleshooting your problem.

By 92gsrhatch
- Wed Mar 02, 2011 3:23 am #241741 thanks everybody i guess i gotta get my hands on an ETM so i can know exactly which wires to check.

By 92gsrhatch
- Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:57 pm #242056 ok so i have been working on my electrical issue and still no luck. that single fuse controlls
clock, gauge assembly, hazard switch, back up lights, interlock system,
and the integrated control unit.

i have dissconected the dash harness to the fuse box and all other wiring that has to due with the dash harness and fuse still blows. so that just mean that those parts are ok. next to check out is the back up lights.
and wth is the interlock system and integrated control unit and how do i check them out???
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By teal_dx
- Thu Mar 03, 2011 8:06 pm #242058 your car is an automatic? I believe interlock is what prevents your car from starting unless the shifter is in Park.

on manual cars, this might also be the clutch pedal switch.

By 92gsrhatch
- Thu Mar 03, 2011 8:15 pm #242060 its manual.
is there any way i can test that switch to see if its bad??
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