- Wed Sep 24, 2014 2:24 pm
Now, I got under the car and ran the cable up under the crossmember, and to the tranny shifter attachment points. Then ran the other end into the car.
Got back inside the car and attached them to the shifter. Now at this point make sure the cables aren't binding, or tight on something or they wont shift right. Run thru the gears to see if it shifts good.
No I had to cover the holes up so I just used heavy duty gorilla duck tape and sealant. Kinda ghetto but whatever it works.
As for put the stock shifter console back on, I just trimmed the few things and placed it over the shifter box, the accord shifter box needs to be trimmed a little on the sides, nothing my grinder couldn't handle, I mean its plastic.
Now I don't have any pics of the axle install, because its pretty straightforward.
The driver side goes right in, the passenger side all you need to do is take off the integra inner cup and slide the accord inner cup on. then bando the boot back to the cup.
The reason you use the inner accord cup is the input shaft on the accord cup is longer than the integras. Just helps to make the axle stay in better.
Next is the wiring, which is very easy. The engine started on the first try.
You can reuse the OBD1 D15 distributor, it bolts on perfect, every leg bolts on.
Now the stock harness plugs into everything basically, as for vtec, it just needs to be wired to the stock harness. There is numerous places on the web on how to do that.
You will need to make a adapter plate to block off the IACV on the rear of the F23 manifold, it is a 3 wire IACV and it cannot be used, and it wont clear the brake lines on the fire wall.
I bought a aluminum sheet from home depot and made a template and put it over the f23 stock IACV location, and I made another plate to bolt my stock IACV to, and put a nipple on it, and ran it to the intake port on the manifold, engine idles perfect.
Extend the stock fuel lines, extend the alternator harness to the Alternator.
I used the Accord alternator, it is OBD2 so you will need to use the OBD2 nator wires and run them to your stock wires. The colors will be different: Here are the colors that need to be matched:
Obd1 wire color: black with yellow stripe = OBD2 wire color: black with yellow stripe
Obd1 wire color: white with blue stripe = OBD2 wire color: white with blue stripe
Obd1 wire color: white with red stripe = OBD2 wire color: blue
Obd1 wire color: white with green stripe = OBD2 wire color: white with yellow stripe
The F23a1 head also doesn't have a Coolant Temp Sensor in it, there is a block off plug screwed into the location where it goes. I took the one off of my d15 head, and screwed it into the location on the F23 head.
The stock d15 radiator hoses fit kinda tight, but perfect. The radiator will need a slim fan.
The clutch slave cylinder hooked up to my stock civic clutch line with a little modification, nothing major.
I am currently running a P28 ecu, its is untuned. The engine started on the first try, and it runs amazing!! It pulls which to me is equivalent to a GSR swap, but you can feel the torque big time, spins tires like nothing. And what is funny, I have never heard Vtec on a single cam before, but I swear the Vtec changeover sounds like a dual cam. Its kinda cool.
Also its really cool, because it looks like a stock D-series at first glance, gonna fool alotta people.
Definetely for the price and the upgrade, it is worth it. Thanks for looking. I hope this can help someone in the future.