- Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:02 pm
#38727
I found this article in Dutch on Civic Club Holland, by member 'Gijs'
So I thought I'd translate it for you guys
But first I would like to share these links with you, as they contain a whole shitload of valuable information about the OBX diff and a few things that have to do with 'em.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1752849&page=1
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1381146
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/proje ... x3_part_4/
http://www.raymondasia.com/cat_belleville.htm
There is a lot of information on these sites tho, be prepared to read for a couple of hours!
Good luck and have fun!
Some day, I'll do this myself, I'll post my own findings here then ;)
So I thought I'd translate it for you guys
But first I would like to share these links with you, as they contain a whole shitload of valuable information about the OBX diff and a few things that have to do with 'em.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1752849&page=1
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1381146
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/proje ... x3_part_4/
http://www.raymondasia.com/cat_belleville.htm
There is a lot of information on these sites tho, be prepared to read for a couple of hours!
The tranny I used was a S20 tranny.
Remove the oil from the tranny.
Remove the speedo sensor and reverse switch.
Put the tranny on a block.
After that was done, remove all bolts from the housing, 12mm socket.
Also remove the plug on top of the tranny, wich is square 3/8.
Behind it, you can see the retainer ring, wich you have to remove with a pair of pliers.
Pull the small axle from the tranny wich is for the reverse gear sprocket.
After that, remove the two bolts from the reverse gear pitchfork, wich needs a 10mm socket.
On the inside at the clutch side there is a locking bolt; loosen it.
On the selector is also a bolt wich needs to be removed.
Because your selector is now rotating freely, you can remove the 'towers' completely; just place your hand around it and pick it up.
Put it down in a way it stays together.
This makes room to reach the diff, wich you can pull out by hand.
You can remove the bearings with a press or pully remover.
I heated them a little, but you have to pay attention to the plastic speedo ring... plastic will melt.
The diff used in this case is a really nice OBX type 3.
If it can handle 400hp, you will not hear me complain.
The new diff is 0.05 smaller compared to the old one.
This is important for your shims, because you'll only fill up the housing on the tranny side.
Pressing in the new bearing; work CLEAN and press STRAIGHT!!
The bolts from the sprocket (gear if you like) touch the housing a little, so these were machined to fit.
These have reversed thread btw; turn left to fasten, right to loosen.
No shims today, the LSD is installed in a second.
Honda didn't place a shim as well btw.
Also, pay some extra attention to the bearings retainer for the secondary axle; these can need a little help.
All together, take 2 hours for this fun job to do.
Hard to do?
On a scale from 1 to 100, this is a 70.
It's easier than you might think
Good luck and have fun!
Some day, I'll do this myself, I'll post my own findings here then ;)
