Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:29 am #112018 K not sure if this is the exact place to post this but I didn't think posting on each of the turbo and n/a boards would be correct either. K so I seem to always get mixed answers about the b16a, here's what I bring to you gent's, Turbo or N/A build, I always here that the b16a is a limited hp engine, that it can barely brake the 200 FWHP mark, others say its possible to get almost 300 FWHP, I don't buy that, then others tell me to just turbo it, "b16's love turbos" they tell me, but isnt the b16 a high compression engine already, max boost I could run on stock internals is like what 5-7 PSI of boost? I found this

http://www.tunertoys.com/AFI_HONDA_B_D_ ... -bd-sk.htm

seems like a solid buy, I guess to beat you guys to the punch I plan on build the car for street/track use, not hardcore track but just high speed touring class (any street car basically) I was thinking N/A but I want at least 300 FWHP to help me compete with some of the more modern (more like more expensive) cars.

So put your 2 cents in, I'm open to any suggestions.

Thanks guys,
Chris

- Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:37 pm #112116 Thats a really nice kit... but its all your external needs, except for a few little things.

Whether your gonna boost or go N/A, for your power goals your going to need to do a full build.

For either build stronger rods are a necessity, and then you'll need new bearings, your going to want to sleeve or block guard your engine. If your only going to 300whp, block guard will suffice. If your going to go mad and look for 500whp, its probably a good thing to look into sleeves. However, i know a guy running a 600whp teg that pulls low 10's with a full interior and he didn't re-sleeve, only installed a block guard.. And finally pistons will need to be changed in accordance with your build. N/A will necessitate a higher compression .. ~12:1 .. and turbo will necessitate low compression .. ~8.5:1 ..

It will be much easier, and much more cost-effective for you to reach any power goal above 200whp on your b16a with a turbo versus a N/A build. N/A build cost lost of money, but not needing to wait for your power is cool too.

This is just the tip of the iceberg, do some research.. actually, a lot of research, and you'll be fine

personally, i'd go turbo.

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- Tue Apr 21, 2009 4:08 pm #112138 turbo

"I built it, I drive it, your opinion doesnt matter. It doesn't have to be JDM it just has to be functional."

- Tue Apr 21, 2009 4:26 pm #112143 i say NA, but thats just me. you can get plenty of power from a B16a. there is even a kit out there with special pistons that lets you use the LS crank and rods.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:28 pm #112229 n/a ftw! nothing like 9k+ rpms to me...

- Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:28 pm #112270

i say NA, but thats just me. you can get plenty of power from a B16a. there is even a kit out there with special pistons that lets you use the LS crank and rods.

Any idea what the name or site is for such a kit, any help is good help I say, and thanks guys for your input, I think I'm going to research a little more before I just go crazy and drop a few grand here or there heh, yeah I was thinking the turbo has its peaks for a high "cheap" whp gain but on the other hand... N/A seems to be a better route for the type of track I race out at, I havent been there with the eg6 yet, only my RX-7 and Miata so racing FWD will be a whooole new thing for me. Part of me says N/A the other Turbo... ah yes, choices...

I also was thinking it would be cool to run ITB on an N/A build your thoughts?

- Wed Apr 22, 2009 2:52 am #112322

i say NA, but thats just me. you can get plenty of power from a B16a. there is even a kit out there with special pistons that lets you use the LS crank and rods.

Any idea what the name or site is for such a kit, any help is good help I say, and thanks guys for your input, I think I'm going to research a little more before I just go crazy and drop a few grand here or there heh, yeah I was thinking the turbo has its peaks for a high "cheap" whp gain but on the other hand... N/A seems to be a better route for the type of track I race out at, I havent been there with the eg6 yet, only my RX-7 and Miata so racing FWD will be a whooole new thing for me. Part of me says N/A the other Turbo... ah yes, choices...

I also was thinking it would be cool to run ITB on an N/A build your thoughts?

itbs arent a good idea unless youre building an all out race car. they will give you most of the same headaches that high hp carburated cars have because the need to be constantly tuned for the weather. and that will get expensive...

- Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:19 pm #112579 Well if it gives me the same headaches my bike does I wouldnt mind haha, 3 1/2 inch straight pipes on a 1000cc Vtwin XD I'll be tone def by 30 ;)

Yeah ITB's are cool but I hear alot that the tuning is a pain in the ass, some say its not worth, who knows unless you have one, I think I'm going to do an N/A build on this one, heres what the engine currently has (mind you I bought the car like this, the only "mod" I did, I put the JDM fog lamps on it)

B16a

DC-Sports 4-2-1 Header

OBX Cat back Twin Loop exhaust (getting the HKS Hi-Power in a few weeks, don't like the sound of the OBX heh)

Cold Air Intake (short ram)

B&M fuel pressure regulator (I believe it also has an after market fuel rail)

Removed power steering

Removed A/C (might hook it back up)

as far as any internal work, unknown, assuming it is stock.

So I think I should start with cam gears and cam shafts, if I'm going to build it right I think I should go ahead and have the head checked out, maybe do a multiangle valve job, port polish, but like I said before I used to be a hard core rotary guy, piston engines are not my strong point, so measurements, what should I be looking at if I bore out the engine?

money isnt the biggest issue since I can do the work myself (besides the machine work) so throw what you guys got at me and I'll get to work! Thanks guys, peace.

- Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:00 pm #112993 head work is a good start.. especially since the b16 is already such a rev happy engine with decent compression for an N/A build..

stock bore is 81mm.. going to 84 would be the most popular number i'd think. probably going to want to find new rods, and a block guard or re-sleeve.. some higher compression pistons, a good set of na cams and cam gears, springs, retainers and a tune and you should make some really nice power...

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- Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:07 pm #113081 I cant find the site that sells the kit, but its stock ls rods and crank, with custom pistons. the pin is moved to allow it all to fit in the block.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:10 pm #113344 Already getting the head disassembled and going to send it out to have it serviced. So I'm going to need some options for the top end, I keep seeing this Blox Racing company come up, any idea if their cam shafts are any good? I was thinking going with Skunk2 Stage 2 or Stage 3's since I'm building the bottom end too. What do you think guys?

Oh yeah also this is a random question, Apexi Vtec Controller, what is the purpose of it? I mean does it work like how Toyota's VVTi does?

- Wed Apr 29, 2009 5:58 am #113845

Already getting the head disassembled and going to send it out to have it serviced. So I'm going to need some options for the top end, I keep seeing this Blox Racing company come up, any idea if their cam shafts are any good? I was thinking going with Skunk2 Stage 2 or Stage 3's since I'm building the bottom end too. What do you think guys?

Oh yeah also this is a random question, Apexi Vtec Controller, what is the purpose of it? I mean does it work like how Toyota's VVTi does?

say no to anything blox as far as internals. Brian crower cams are FTW! and NOOOOOOOOOOOOO to the vtak controller. it makes absolutely NO performance difference.

- Wed Apr 29, 2009 3:38 pm #113906 im sure for the power you're gonna be looking at you'll be getting a standalone ECU or a piggyback like apexi VAFC.If you were to get a VAFC it comes along with a vtec controller.

When you send your car for tuning/dyno they will actually set the vtec to engage at your optimum peak.


Other than that reason, you don need to mess around using the vtec controller.

- Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:19 pm #113934 yeah thats what I was thinking I kept researching and it just seems like a useless thing to have in general lol, to me it seems like one of those items targeted at uneducated people but like I say if you havent researched what it can do, dont install the damn thing lol.

Yeah I was looking at the blox cam shafts but for the price it seems you get what you pay for in that sense, I was thinking Skunk2's but will look into Brian Crower's

On the flip side of things waiting for my tax return to come in, I decided gent's that I will blow my tax return on a Fujitsubo Power Getter exhaust system, I haven't found any exhaust that sounds as nice as the Power Getter, HKS Hi-power was nice but it just didn't cut it (at this point anything to get that horrible sounding OBX rip off of the Mugen twin loop off my car...)

- Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:20 pm #113936

im sure for the power you're gonna be looking at you'll be getting a standalone ECU or a piggyback like apexi VAFC.If you were to get a VAFC it comes along with a vtec controller.

When you send your car for tuning/dyno they will actually set the vtec to engage at your optimum peak.


Other than that reason, you don need to mess around using the vtec controller.

And yes I am looking into a stand alone or piggy back, I was thinking going with a Hondata S300 system, what do you guys think?