B16, B18, B20
By bks84
#329803 Also will the valve cover is off out it at tdc and check timing.
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By Leppy
#329875 Adjusted the valves and checked TDC. Everything is good. Car fires but is still running rich and bogs out. Dizzy timing is set right. Any more ideas?
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By Leppy
#329878 Ok, funny... I swapped out two plugs on the back of the intake, one being the IACV and the other having vacuum lines to it and a little filter element on top and it cranks every time and idles. BUT it idles at 500 to 600 RPM. Now what? Lol this damned thing is driving me crazy...
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By jdmeg8
#329879 If it idles good minus low idle try to idle it up with the allen screw on the tb it may have been turned down causing a low idle worked on mine
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By Leppy
#329880
jdmeg8 wrote:If it idles good minus low idle try to idle it up with the allen screw on the tb it may have been turned down causing a low idle worked on mine


Well there may have been a leftover sensor from the D wired in. I plugged the IACV back and left the other unplugged and rerouted the vacuum line straight to the intake manifold and now it is running good and idles at 800 like it used to. I may have fixed it, letting it run for a while to see now.
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By Leppy
#329882 Ok, it cranks and runs still, but now idle is kinda bouncy and its still popping. It hesitates when I give it some gas too like it still might be running rich but definitely not as bad as before. It still stalls it out though after a while. Giving up for the night.
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By Leppy
#329922 Thinking out loud here. If the car runs smooth without the IACV hooked up but idles really low and throws a code for it, then when it is plugged back in runs rich and stall out when warm, is the IACV bad?
By bks84
#329934 Could be. I've never experienced a bad one tbh.
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By Leppy
#329941
bks84 wrote:Could be. I've never experienced a bad one tbh.


I'm going to take it off and clean it when I get home to see. It's the only thing I can think of without changing the ECU
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By Leppy
#329957 Helped it idle, but after it gets warm, it starts popping and dies while driving and refuses to start again. Only when hot. Cold it behaves... No clue now...
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By Leppy
#329962 I read something about the main relay going out when the car get's hot and refuses to start. Could this be an issue? Also when Dad came to pull me after the car stalled and drained the battery trying to restart it, there was a heavy power drain that shouldn't have been there.

Could a main relay cause it to quit throwing spark after it get's hot and flood the cylinders and cause a hard power drain?

also, no codes the entire time. I pulled the ECU and back-up fuse for 15 minutes and reset the ECU, then let it idle for 20 minutes, shut if off, and started it back and took a drive.
By alansi09
#329992 Mine has been doing this for about 2weeks now I did valve lash replaced iacv messed with the screw by throttle body and even got a diffrent ecu and still does the same thing every onc in a while it will just die on me when I come to a stop so I feel your frustration lmk if you figuere out what's goin on and ill keep checking as well and keep you posted
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By Leppy
#330006
alansi09 wrote:Mine has been doing this for about 2weeks now I did valve lash replaced iacv messed with the screw by throttle body and even got a diffrent ecu and still does the same thing every onc in a while it will just die on me when I come to a stop so I feel your frustration lmk if you figuere out what's goin on and ill keep checking as well and keep you posted


I just picked up a new main relay on my way home. After I eat (which i'm doing now) I'm going to throw it in and see it that fixes it.
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By Leppy
#330007 Think I found the source. Anyone have a GSR intake manifold for sale?

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By Leppy
#330039 Skunk2 IM, TB, and gaskets on the way. In the meantime, my new syncro's and bearings to rebuild my transmission arrived today, so i'll be pulling everything apart and hopefully have it all running smoothly next week.