[FAQ] How to build a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec mot

B16, B18, B20
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By Greasedmonkey
- Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:19 pm #123641 Can we make this a sticky now. So many people asking about this build.
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By OGJaper
- Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:32 pm #125126 Bump

great write up! This is the info I was looking for, I really want to take my b16 head and throw it on a b20, so aside from the listed parts is there anything else I might need? I want to get a decent 220 hp if possible :)
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By Greasedmonkey
- Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:12 am #125188 You will want better than stock rods and pistons. Fully port and polish the head, balance the short block. There are tons to get good power.
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By jdmb20beg
- Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:26 am #134476 So all this wil work with my b20b and what would be the best head gsr or itr??
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By Ej2-B16a
- Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:20 am #145092 this guy is a moron.

all you need to do is

get ARP rod studs.

any VTEC oil pump, even b16 works.

and thats it.

all this other shit.. this guy wasted his money. its the sad truth, try to argue it if you wish but we'v been running ls/b20 vtecs for ever and we have customers that have passed well over 80k miles on the build SINCE WE BUILT EM.
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By ohDirka
- Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:19 am #145099
Ej2-B16a wrote:this guy is a moron.

all you need to do is

get ARP rod studs.

any VTEC oil pump, even b16 works.

and thats it.

all this other shit.. this guy wasted his money. its the sad truth, try to argue it if you wish but we'v been running ls/b20 vtecs for ever and we have customers that have passed well over 80k miles on the build SINCE WE BUILT EM.


Coming from the Rattle Can Terror?
Image

I'll take anybody's advice over yours
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By Ej2-B16a
- Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:26 am #145176
D15kid wrote:
Ej2-B16a wrote:this guy is a moron.

all you need to do is

get ARP rod studs.

any VTEC oil pump, even b16 works.

and thats it.

all this other shit.. this guy wasted his money. its the sad truth, try to argue it if you wish but we'v been running ls/b20 vtecs for ever and we have customers that have passed well over 80k miles on the build SINCE WE BUILT EM.


Coming from the Rattle Can Terror?
Image

I'll take anybody's advice over yours


your a fucking homo dude iv done more b20/ls vtec's then the amount of oil changes you done. and fyi the car went in the get rapainted after that mess.

your pic + what u said makes no sense.

cleary that pic shows im a terrible painter. what the fuck does that have to do with building motors, your just pissed cuz u drive a stock single cam
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By chrono404
- Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:06 pm #145219
Ej2-B16a wrote:this guy is a moron.

all you need to do is

get ARP rod studs.

any VTEC oil pump, even b16 works.

and thats it.

all this other shit.. this guy wasted his money. its the sad truth, try to argue it if you wish but we'v been running ls/b20 vtecs for ever and we have customers that have passed well over 80k miles on the build SINCE WE BUILT EM.


This coming from the same guy who said B20s dont have a weaker cylinder wall then a LS, Despite it being 33% Thinner?

You also forgot to mention running oil lines up to the VTEC head, i.e. the golden eagle vtec kit.

You can build a B20vtec they way you say. However to get a "Reliable" LS/vtec or B20vtec, That will last, This is the best way to do it.

If you want to take short cuts dont be surprised you have to rebuild down the road. I have a friend we call Skittles, he has made probally 4-5 LSvtecs in the time I have known him. Why? becouse he only throws on a vtec oil pump, rod bolts, new water pump, head gasket and b17 vtec head. His engines are tuned on crome on his chipped p28.

His engines never last more then 6-12 months. not what I would call reliable.
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By Ej2-B16a
- Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:09 pm #145245 my motors grenade too, thats becauase my motors actually make horsepower and get beaten on tracks every other week + daily driven.


and NO SHIT chrono state the obvious about the oil lines..



lmao, all stock sleeves are prone to cracking under boost. im trying to say that b20 isnt the only 1. iv seen all honda motors that were boosted with cracked sleeves.


now heres where you might say im being a hypocrit, my LSV has full MANLEY EVERYTHING (head) the head will rev to the moon.

block - srp pistons, eagle rods, block gaurd, arp everything.



a ls/b20 vtec is plenty reliable with just vtec oil pump and arp rod studs, but that all depends on what u define as reliable.

FOR MY APPLICATIONS : arp rod bolts and just a vtec oil pump isnt enough to cut it.

the application that im talking about: is for your basic every day ricer that think he has a fast car cuz its a B series. (not the big boys that actually turbo, or high comp N/A builds.


I NEVER SAID thats how you build a race motor.. I just said thats how you can drive a ls/b20 v pretty reliably
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By Ej2-B16a
- Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:25 pm #145251
D15kid wrote:
Ej2-B16a wrote:this guy is a moron.

all you need to do is

get ARP rod studs.

any VTEC oil pump, even b16 works.

and thats it.

all this other shit.. this guy wasted his money. its the sad truth, try to argue it if you wish but we'v been running ls/b20 vtecs for ever and we have customers that have passed well over 80k miles on the build SINCE WE BUILT EM.


Coming from the Rattle Can Terror?
Image

I'll take anybody's advice over yours



BTW. mr funny guy,



Image
Image
Image

how you like me now hoe?
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By Gorveatt
- Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:05 pm #145259 Ej2-B16a just stop... for the love of fuck just stop, turn the computer off, un plug it and just sell it. seriously... I had to put up with the immense crap you have been spewing on Hondacivicforum when i was there as well as when you decided to come to this forum... you left, and it was a better place without you.

I don't care what anyone says, if you're motors are blowing up it is by no means reliable.... reliability mean that you can turn the car on, drive for 24 hours, turn the car off, then turn it back on and it will still keep going, and then repeat if you want numerous times for years and years. a few months is by no means reliable...
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By Greasedmonkey
- Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:24 pm #145273
Ej2-B16a wrote:my motors grenade too





This thread is about reliability builds. Doing it right the first time and enjoying a properly built motor for the long run. LS/B20 motor were not designed to spin over 7k rpms. Hence the red line being about 6800. With your thinking, If I can jump off a cliff and survive there is nothing wrong with doing it over and over again. I did it once, I can do it again.

Since you dont really know what you are talking about in this thread, I suggest you take you leave of absence again. I still see over spray on your painted bay still.

Also, you asked what does your shitty paint job have to do with you building motors? Well, its like this. If you cant take the time to tape off and mask the areas you dont want painted and paint it all a shitty blue color, I guess you build your motors like that too. Motor building is a precise art, not for speeding through, or taking short cuts. This how to has produce many reliable and powerful motors that will go the distance just like if honda had made them.
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By Ej2-B16a
- Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:27 am #145288 u know what its not even worth arguing with morons that need a DIY write up for a oil change. peace homos
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