D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps

To fix or Swap?

1
33%
2
67%
User avatar
By BrownWolph
#320990
EJ1_MK wrote:Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.


There are no codes related to this issue. :woot:

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?
By EJ1_MK
#320993
BrownWolph wrote:
EJ1_MK wrote:Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.


There are no codes related to this issue. :woot:

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?


Ok well from your original description was hard to tell what you where asking.

So if I have this straight it idles normal but falls low and comes back up for the first 5 or so minutes after the car is started cold correct?

Also the cable that comes off the throttle body that runs to the trans does it have tension. That is what they call the down shift cable.

Automatics are a pain when they start to have issues like this because of how all the system interact. Have you checked the coolant level?

It sounds to be the fast Idle valve that is directly under the throttle body there is a little piece of rubber in there if it gets knocked out of place that it will surge. If you replaced the throttle body then you would have had to lost some coolant there might be air in the system.
User avatar
By BrownWolph
#320997
EJ1_MK wrote:
BrownWolph wrote:
EJ1_MK wrote:Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.


There are no codes related to this issue. :woot:

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?


Ok well from your original description was hard to tell what you where asking.

So if I have this straight it idles normal but falls low and comes back up for the first 5 or so minutes after the car is started cold correct?

Also the cable that comes off the throttle body that runs to the trans does it have tension. That is what they call the down shift cable.

Automatics are a pain when they start to have issues like this because of how all the system interact. Have you checked the coolant level?

It sounds to be the fast Idle valve that is directly under the throttle body there is a little piece of rubber in there if it gets knocked out of place that it will surge. If you replaced the throttle body then you would have had to lost some coolant there might be air in the system.


1) Correct
2) It does but it's not guitar string tight. Should it be?
3) No, I will tonight
4) I did replace the TB and I did lose about a 1/4 cup of coolant. How would I get the air out of the system?


Thank you! :thumb:
By EJ1_MK
#321013
BrownWolph wrote:
EJ1_MK wrote:
BrownWolph wrote:
EJ1_MK wrote:Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.


There are no codes related to this issue. :woot:

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?


Ok well from your original description was hard to tell what you where asking.

So if I have this straight it idles normal but falls low and comes back up for the first 5 or so minutes after the car is started cold correct?

Also the cable that comes off the throttle body that runs to the trans does it have tension. That is what they call the down shift cable.

Automatics are a pain when they start to have issues like this because of how all the system interact. Have you checked the coolant level?

It sounds to be the fast Idle valve that is directly under the throttle body there is a little piece of rubber in there if it gets knocked out of place that it will surge. If you replaced the throttle body then you would have had to lost some coolant there might be air in the system.


1) Correct
2) It does but it's not guitar string tight. Should it be?
3) No, I will tonight
4) I did replace the TB and I did lose about a 1/4 cup of coolant. How would I get the air out of the system?


Thank you! :thumb:


No it should just be snug, and all you have to do it take the radiator cap off and start the engine. fill the radiator if you don't see enough coolant in it first. But then you sit and wait for about 1-2 hrs depending on temp outside. You will want the thermostat to open fully which should kick your radiator fan on. But if you watch the coolant you might see bubbles come out which is the air pockets. once the thermostat is open then let it run for a few more min and then put the rad cap back on and done.
User avatar
By BrownWolph
#321615 UPDATE:

Okay there was a lot of air in the cooling system. Now one this cold day she starts right up but spends more time around 400-600rpms then spikes up to about 1500rpms for only a second. The good news is she does not choke out and turn off anymore!

So the bubbles stopped and the car doesn't turn off but there is still an idle issue. What should I do next?

BTW: Thanks to your advice I was able to get a friends Accord running again and she thanks you all!
User avatar
By BrownWolph
#321616 UPDATE:

Okay there was a lot of air in the cooling system. Now one this cold day she starts right up but spends more time around 400-600rpms then spikes up to about 1500rpms for only a second. The good news is she does not choke out and turn off anymore!

So the bubbles stopped and the car doesn't turn off but there is still an idle issue. What should I do next?

BTW: Thanks to your advice I was able to get a friends Accord running again and she thanks you all!