- Tue Aug 27, 2013 3:18 pm
#335996
Mats arrived and they look perfect! big thanks to lec_motorsports!
They are much darker in real life. But the camera didnt really catch it. They have a really nice effect
- Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:05 pm
#336580
It was a rainy day in couple of weeks ago, so I thought to clean up the dashboard:
When the sunshine came back, I removed the surface rust from the floor:
I noticed something strange when removing the side sills:
What is this?
And why the wiring works was made like this?:
Previous owner did some undersealing...
...But in this case it wasnt doing any good, cause the underseal was applied straight over the debris and other shit -> accelerates rusting
Needs some fresh metal...
I also started to do some wire tuck, but nothing serious in here:
Then i bought Asus Nexus 7 (2013 model) to be my new I.C.E front end
Just a raw test fitting:
Then i did some shopping:
Civic 92-00 OEM Hood Insulator:
JDM Optional Bronze Door 1 DIN pocket:
OEM cable channel to the passengers side. Eases up some wire routing
Its very hard to get a good picture from those floor mats, strange light gray to dark grey effect
Part number:
ABS-wire harness retrofit:
Cluster ABS-light wire:
Then i also used some fosfor acid to remove even the tiniest rust spots from the metal:
The my JDM bronze lid 1 DIN pocket came and i gave it a good clean, removed the scratches and polished it:
Then i bought a rare EJ1/2 Coupe third brake light from Malaysia:
And also another EG/EJ BNIB parking pole and also a Power Folding Mirror switch, which is in very nice condition (please excuse the dirt):
Is this the OEM-Power Folding relay location? Can someone confirm? This is the only place where i can install this cause the other possible place will be used for Cruise Control computer and Headlight Washer System relay:
Power Folding mirrors will also be controlled by the alarm door lock pulses.
Then we are coming to this day:
Some chemicals:
Protecting the new floor mats from the dirt and moisture:
Water test after application and drying:
Bilt Hamber Deox-C, Deox-Gel and Hydrate 80 usage:
After drying:
And after seam sealer:
Edit: Current progress:
- OEM JDM EG/EJ Parking Pole (BNIB) /Bought & Installed
- OEM EDM/USDM Optional 2DIN Audio Console (BNIB) /Bought
- OEM JDM Optional 1 DIN Bronze pocket /Bought & Installed
- OEM JDM Power Folding Heated Side mirrors /Bought, Modded to LHD & Installed
- OEM Civic 92-95 NH-1 floor mats (BNIB) / Bought, Protected & Installed
- OEM Drivers side power door lock upgrade /Bought & Installed
- OEM CDM/USDM Cruise Control retrofit
- OEM JDM Auto Climate Control retrofit
- OEM JDM Low Fuel light retrofit /Wiring Ready, Fuel Sender missing
- OEM JDM Door open indicator retrofit
- OEM JDM 93-95 Coupe third brake light /Bought
- OEM Civic 92-00 Hood Insulator /Bought used, (BNIB already ordered)
- OEM ABS retrofit /Main & Secondary harness Bought & Installed
When the sunshine came back, I removed the surface rust from the floor:
I noticed something strange when removing the side sills:
What is this?
And why the wiring works was made like this?:
Previous owner did some undersealing...
...But in this case it wasnt doing any good, cause the underseal was applied straight over the debris and other shit -> accelerates rusting
Needs some fresh metal...
I also started to do some wire tuck, but nothing serious in here:
Then i bought Asus Nexus 7 (2013 model) to be my new I.C.E front end
Just a raw test fitting:
Then i did some shopping:
Civic 92-00 OEM Hood Insulator:
JDM Optional Bronze Door 1 DIN pocket:
OEM cable channel to the passengers side. Eases up some wire routing
Its very hard to get a good picture from those floor mats, strange light gray to dark grey effect
Part number:
ABS-wire harness retrofit:
Cluster ABS-light wire:
Then i also used some fosfor acid to remove even the tiniest rust spots from the metal:
The my JDM bronze lid 1 DIN pocket came and i gave it a good clean, removed the scratches and polished it:
Then i bought a rare EJ1/2 Coupe third brake light from Malaysia:
And also another EG/EJ BNIB parking pole and also a Power Folding Mirror switch, which is in very nice condition (please excuse the dirt):
Is this the OEM-Power Folding relay location? Can someone confirm? This is the only place where i can install this cause the other possible place will be used for Cruise Control computer and Headlight Washer System relay:
Power Folding mirrors will also be controlled by the alarm door lock pulses.
Then we are coming to this day:
Some chemicals:
Protecting the new floor mats from the dirt and moisture:
Water test after application and drying:
Bilt Hamber Deox-C, Deox-Gel and Hydrate 80 usage:
After drying:
And after seam sealer:
Edit: Current progress:
- OEM JDM EG/EJ Parking Pole (BNIB) /Bought & Installed
- OEM EDM/USDM Optional 2DIN Audio Console (BNIB) /Bought
- OEM JDM Optional 1 DIN Bronze pocket /Bought & Installed
- OEM JDM Power Folding Heated Side mirrors /Bought, Modded to LHD & Installed
- OEM Civic 92-95 NH-1 floor mats (BNIB) / Bought, Protected & Installed
- OEM Drivers side power door lock upgrade /Bought & Installed
- OEM CDM/USDM Cruise Control retrofit
- OEM JDM Auto Climate Control retrofit
- OEM JDM Low Fuel light retrofit /Wiring Ready, Fuel Sender missing
- OEM JDM Door open indicator retrofit
- OEM JDM 93-95 Coupe third brake light /Bought
- OEM Civic 92-00 Hood Insulator /Bought used, (BNIB already ordered)
- OEM ABS retrofit /Main & Secondary harness Bought & Installed
Last edited by HiTec on Fri Sep 27, 2013 4:08 pm, edited 3 times in total.
- Wed Sep 11, 2013 6:43 pm
#336585
GOOD WORK! man i wish my interior would end up this clean!
Midori Green EJ2 Build
http://civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=30455
http://civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=30455
- Wed Sep 11, 2013 6:45 pm
#336586
GOOD WORK! man i wish my interior would end up this clean!
Midori Green EJ2 Build
http://civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=30455
http://civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=30455
- Fri Sep 27, 2013 8:19 am
#337086
Thanks! It takes time, but its worth it
So, its still unclear if this will be a B18C or K-Series build. Both will require ABS-system to pass inspection and K-Series swap also requires a very difficult and problematic exceptional licence
As i said earlier, i bought EG Sedan ABS-main and secondary harness from Germany, and removed the unnecessary wires from it. I was curious about the ITR Spec 98 ABS system and EG ABS system differences. I was sure that ITR ABS system is superior when comparing to EG:s, so I studied both systems schematics to learn the differences, and find out how much work there is involved to modify the EG harness to work with ITR:s ABS-parts.
After some intense studying, I made the decision to make a ITR ABS-system retrofit. Here is my findings:
This is the first version about the differences (in Finnish):
Here is a snapshot from my Excel file that i did to ease up things:
As you can see, there is just couple of modifications to do to EG:s main harness.
For the other things, here is some random pics from interior. All thing aren´t clean yet, (sorry for that) but in my opinion the interior will look awesome when its fully ready and cleaned!
Seat belt thingys looked bad so I fixed them a little:
Here is just that lower flap cleaned up, still upper one to make.
Seat Belt Indicator harness added (could someone please give me any info about how this system works? Is it ICU dependent or can it work without ICU? Is the Seat Belt indicator light part of the ICU:s bulb check circuit?:
Also the PFMS arrived, but it looked bad. There was a 2cm scratch in the "Mirror" button, button "feel" was bad and there was a annoying sound coming from the PFM button.
This is a pic from the starting condition:
Dissassembly:
Changing the rear cover, upper one is old (yellowed ) and the lower one is new:
Changing the "MIRROR" button, upper one is old, and the lower one is new (Keep in mind that the replacement parts must be from -94 (or was it -93?) or newer switch, cause older switches have different looking surface and painting.):
I had also couple spare switches, so I dissassembled them all and tested the rubber thingys. I gathered 4 of those that had the best "feel" and used them in this PFMS. (Yes there was a differences in the "feedback".)
Switch housing dissassembled and fully cleaned:
There was a Malaysian dust in the switches surface which made the unpleasant sound:
And here is fully refurbished and cleaned switch installed to my dash (also check out the brand new sunroof switch)
Then i added the folding wire to the Mirror switch harness (BLU/YEL):
I also received the Coupe third brake light. I dissassembled it and noticed that the foam was brittled so the light "leaked" a little:
This is the last pic i took from it before the phone battery died:
To be continued in some day, thanks for reading and sorry for picture flooding!
So, its still unclear if this will be a B18C or K-Series build. Both will require ABS-system to pass inspection and K-Series swap also requires a very difficult and problematic exceptional licence
As i said earlier, i bought EG Sedan ABS-main and secondary harness from Germany, and removed the unnecessary wires from it. I was curious about the ITR Spec 98 ABS system and EG ABS system differences. I was sure that ITR ABS system is superior when comparing to EG:s, so I studied both systems schematics to learn the differences, and find out how much work there is involved to modify the EG harness to work with ITR:s ABS-parts.
After some intense studying, I made the decision to make a ITR ABS-system retrofit. Here is my findings:
This is the first version about the differences (in Finnish):
Here is a snapshot from my Excel file that i did to ease up things:
As you can see, there is just couple of modifications to do to EG:s main harness.
For the other things, here is some random pics from interior. All thing aren´t clean yet, (sorry for that) but in my opinion the interior will look awesome when its fully ready and cleaned!
Seat belt thingys looked bad so I fixed them a little:
Here is just that lower flap cleaned up, still upper one to make.
Seat Belt Indicator harness added (could someone please give me any info about how this system works? Is it ICU dependent or can it work without ICU? Is the Seat Belt indicator light part of the ICU:s bulb check circuit?:
Also the PFMS arrived, but it looked bad. There was a 2cm scratch in the "Mirror" button, button "feel" was bad and there was a annoying sound coming from the PFM button.
This is a pic from the starting condition:
Dissassembly:
Changing the rear cover, upper one is old (yellowed ) and the lower one is new:
Changing the "MIRROR" button, upper one is old, and the lower one is new (Keep in mind that the replacement parts must be from -94 (or was it -93?) or newer switch, cause older switches have different looking surface and painting.):
I had also couple spare switches, so I dissassembled them all and tested the rubber thingys. I gathered 4 of those that had the best "feel" and used them in this PFMS. (Yes there was a differences in the "feedback".)
Switch housing dissassembled and fully cleaned:
There was a Malaysian dust in the switches surface which made the unpleasant sound:
And here is fully refurbished and cleaned switch installed to my dash (also check out the brand new sunroof switch)
Then i added the folding wire to the Mirror switch harness (BLU/YEL):
I also received the Coupe third brake light. I dissassembled it and noticed that the foam was brittled so the light "leaked" a little:
This is the last pic i took from it before the phone battery died:
To be continued in some day, thanks for reading and sorry for picture flooding!
- Mon Oct 21, 2013 12:06 am
#337884
I must say, I love all the work you did so far.
My Build Thread: http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=198 ... sc&start=0
- Fri Oct 25, 2013 8:44 am
#338047
Great to hear, thanks for the comment!
Some misc work done, looks very dirty, but its not:
Eliminating Headlight Washer relay rattle against the Cruise Control unit. Cruise Control bracket also gets the Power Folding Mirror relay:
Cleaning ECU bracket with Deox-Gelillä:
Epoxy/Zinc paint:
New yellow passivated bolts:
Removing the AC-line cover (I will install JDM Auto Climate Control system to this from my EG8):
I removed the heaterbox to clean it up (pita to remove):
I bought push mount zip ties to ease up wiring work:
Then i bought 1,5mm thick single sided foam tape to repair my Coupe third brake light:
This light leak was the problem:
Tape is exactly like OEM, so it was easy to replace the cracked one with new :
My next part order is already in transit. BNIB OEM Hood Insulator and EK JDM Air Refiner
Some misc work done, looks very dirty, but its not:
Eliminating Headlight Washer relay rattle against the Cruise Control unit. Cruise Control bracket also gets the Power Folding Mirror relay:
Cleaning ECU bracket with Deox-Gelillä:
Epoxy/Zinc paint:
New yellow passivated bolts:
Removing the AC-line cover (I will install JDM Auto Climate Control system to this from my EG8):
I removed the heaterbox to clean it up (pita to remove):
I bought push mount zip ties to ease up wiring work:
Then i bought 1,5mm thick single sided foam tape to repair my Coupe third brake light:
This light leak was the problem:
Tape is exactly like OEM, so it was easy to replace the cracked one with new :
My next part order is already in transit. BNIB OEM Hood Insulator and EK JDM Air Refiner
- Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:32 am
#338140
Next order; OEM Gathers optional tweeters from New Zealand. I thought to test if i could revive the door cards with these. If not, then I have to try to find a door cards that dont have holes for aftermarket tweeters. The problem is that the previous owner installed the aftermarket tweeters to wrong location thats way of from the original Acoustic Research installation point. Thats why i needed to improvise and thats one of the reasons why i ordered 4D Gathers tweeters instead of 2/3D ones. (4D versions are much more slimmer than 2/3Ds)
Gathers:
Acoustic Research:
The set that i ordered is missing the tweeter grills. But that isnt a problem cause I will install aftermarket tweeters and use their grills Here is a pic about the differences between 2/3D and 4D versions:
Gathers 4D:
Gathers 2/3D:
Then I installed the Coupe third brake light:
I thought that what could I do to those aftermarket speaker holes.
In this case i was lucky. The holes are safely inside the original Acoustic Research speaker cover, so i just need to get these:
And these to get a clean install
Here is a pic that shows the factory holes:
Here is couple pics about the brake light, the rear window is scratched and it has a 5% tint on it:
Gathers:
Acoustic Research:
The set that i ordered is missing the tweeter grills. But that isnt a problem cause I will install aftermarket tweeters and use their grills Here is a pic about the differences between 2/3D and 4D versions:
Gathers 4D:
Gathers 2/3D:
Then I installed the Coupe third brake light:
I thought that what could I do to those aftermarket speaker holes.
In this case i was lucky. The holes are safely inside the original Acoustic Research speaker cover, so i just need to get these:
And these to get a clean install
Here is a pic that shows the factory holes:
Here is couple pics about the brake light, the rear window is scratched and it has a 5% tint on it:
- Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:38 pm
#338608
Okay, so I disassembled the heater box and cleaned it up:
Then i routed the parking poles harness and optical cable from here (also Power Folding Heated Mirrors and ITR Spec98 ABS Harness will go from there:
And wire tucking, again:
Then i removed the Automatic Climate Control from my SuperBlack and started to install it to this Coupe.
Heaterbox with Auto AC, RHD to LHD modded air mix motor + water temp sensor:
I used some Arctic Alumina coolant paste between the sensor and heater core:
Then i needed to change the bezels, because 92-93 Civics have slightly different shade in some interior elements than 94-95:
Some randomnes; my cat Leevi
And then we are coming to this day, Gathers optional OEM tweeters arrived from NZ:
Grills are missing and one tweeter cone is damaged, but otherwise very clean conditioned. Those arent big things to me, cause i will change the tweeters to better ones and use their tweeter grills
Okay, then i went to my garage place to check out how these tweeters line up with doorcards. These tweeters are taken from 4D Civic. Now you think why i bought them and not the 2/3D versions?
Well, there is differences. 4D tweeters are installed upper and further than 2/3D versions. I need them to be installed like that, cause some of the cars previous owners installed the aftermarket tweeter way of from OEM-install location.
So, lets try it
Doorcards:
This is the location where 4D tweeters are perfect fit with 2/3D doorcards. There is no gaps in anywhere. The tweeter rings are perfectly lined up in this pic, but the pic is not good it looks like they are not lined up with each others:
This dent is the only visible thing that reminds me of those aftermarket tweeters. I cant ditch this under the tweeter ring, cause then the ring wouldnt sit with the doorcard withouth gaps. But i can get this dent up. Soap water and heat is the right recepy and i will do it someday when i have more time
And here is OEM 2/3D tweeter hole highlighted. If i would have installed tweeters there, the aftermarket tweeter holes would have been visible:
Then i drawed some lines, cut the vinyl away and started drilling:
Test fit, tweeters look more grey than they really are, must be something to do with the flash:
Different angles:
And just for a reference; here is installation point for Sedan:
And here Coupe/HB:
In my opinion this custom work worked out perfectly! They dont look so bulky as 2/3D versions, they are higher, better aimed and the most important; they cover up the aftermarket tweeter holes perfectly and there is no gaps
Here is some disassembly done with the drivers side tweeter:
And here is just one test pic of how the Hertz tweeter would see behind Gathers cover:
Then i routed the parking poles harness and optical cable from here (also Power Folding Heated Mirrors and ITR Spec98 ABS Harness will go from there:
And wire tucking, again:
Then i removed the Automatic Climate Control from my SuperBlack and started to install it to this Coupe.
Heaterbox with Auto AC, RHD to LHD modded air mix motor + water temp sensor:
I used some Arctic Alumina coolant paste between the sensor and heater core:
Then i needed to change the bezels, because 92-93 Civics have slightly different shade in some interior elements than 94-95:
Some randomnes; my cat Leevi
And then we are coming to this day, Gathers optional OEM tweeters arrived from NZ:
Grills are missing and one tweeter cone is damaged, but otherwise very clean conditioned. Those arent big things to me, cause i will change the tweeters to better ones and use their tweeter grills
Okay, then i went to my garage place to check out how these tweeters line up with doorcards. These tweeters are taken from 4D Civic. Now you think why i bought them and not the 2/3D versions?
Well, there is differences. 4D tweeters are installed upper and further than 2/3D versions. I need them to be installed like that, cause some of the cars previous owners installed the aftermarket tweeter way of from OEM-install location.
So, lets try it
Doorcards:
This is the location where 4D tweeters are perfect fit with 2/3D doorcards. There is no gaps in anywhere. The tweeter rings are perfectly lined up in this pic, but the pic is not good it looks like they are not lined up with each others:
This dent is the only visible thing that reminds me of those aftermarket tweeters. I cant ditch this under the tweeter ring, cause then the ring wouldnt sit with the doorcard withouth gaps. But i can get this dent up. Soap water and heat is the right recepy and i will do it someday when i have more time
And here is OEM 2/3D tweeter hole highlighted. If i would have installed tweeters there, the aftermarket tweeter holes would have been visible:
Then i drawed some lines, cut the vinyl away and started drilling:
Test fit, tweeters look more grey than they really are, must be something to do with the flash:
Different angles:
And just for a reference; here is installation point for Sedan:
And here Coupe/HB:
In my opinion this custom work worked out perfectly! They dont look so bulky as 2/3D versions, they are higher, better aimed and the most important; they cover up the aftermarket tweeter holes perfectly and there is no gaps
Here is some disassembly done with the drivers side tweeter:
And here is just one test pic of how the Hertz tweeter would see behind Gathers cover:
- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:28 pm
#340944
Updates:
Shipment from Malaysia:
OEM BNIB Civic 92-00 Hood Insulator:
Honda Access Air Refiner:
I wanted to see what was inside, so I disassembled it:
Then I ordered Toyota 4Runner/Camry charcoal pollen filter from ebay which has nearly correct thickness for this use.
Installation:
Couple of "shims" before bracket:
Bracket installed:
Tweeters:
My alarms remote
Shipment from Malaysia:
OEM BNIB Civic 92-00 Hood Insulator:
Honda Access Air Refiner:
I wanted to see what was inside, so I disassembled it:
Then I ordered Toyota 4Runner/Camry charcoal pollen filter from ebay which has nearly correct thickness for this use.
Installation:
Couple of "shims" before bracket:
Bracket installed:
Tweeters:
My alarms remote
- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:29 pm
#340945
Then I ordered Integra Type-R Spec 98 main harness with ABS for my custom ABS-retrofit and it came pretty quickly from UK:
DC2 harnesses in a box:
Carefully removing the ABS harness from the main harness:
I managed to remove the ABS main harness pretty neatly from the main harness. Only couple of wires are attached to main harness and they are pictured in here:
GRN/WHT, Brake switch signal:
BRN, Service check connector signal:
...Which goes to the left:
BLU/RED: Warning lamp signal:
GRN/RED: Parking brake signal:
BLK/BLU (UKDM), the only wire color that didnt match to USDM schematics. USDM wire color is BLK/YEL: IG2.
Then i removed the ABS-computers second bracket and modified the integrated bracket to fit to Civics body:
Then the most painfully part, the hybrid version of EG and DC2 ABS harness.
I started to route rear ABS-sensor harness:
These clipses are used in these holes:
Rear ABS-harness was pretty much plug and play with EG/EJ body, I needed to remove some excess wire from it, but otherwise it was easy.
ITR ABS-harness in stock:
As you can see in the picture above, the harness that goes through the firewall (from under hood fusebox to the ABS-computer) is 40cm long. That aint gonna work with my Civics body and electronics. The main reason for this is that UKDM cars are RHD. So, i needed to de-pin all compatible wires from EG harness. The wire colors from ABS computer to the under dash fusebox are: BRN, BLK/YEL, GRN/RED, GRN/WHT, BLU/RED:
Then i needed to start thinking about other ABS-parts location so i could do a right length harness. I left open the thought about K-Series, and if this project ever goes to K-Series i think that its going to be a tight fit with ABS-parts. So, I will relocate the battery to the trunk to get some space for ABS-parts:
ABS fusebox test fit with double sided tape:
EG ABS-harness without major de-pinning:
I also got a OEM-front foglight wire from ITR-harness (my car really didnt have this wire!)
Is it true that DC5 ABS hydraulic unit has integrated ABS-computer? Cause i studied some DC2 vs DC5 ABS systems and they look very much like the same. I thought that if DC5 hydraulic unit doesnt have integrated ABS-computer, it might be possible to use it with DC2 ABS setup. DC5 unit is much smaller and lighter than DC2 hydraulics.
Comparison:
I measure every wire that i solder. I´m electronic engineer, but just to make sure everything works
DC2 harnesses in a box:
Carefully removing the ABS harness from the main harness:
I managed to remove the ABS main harness pretty neatly from the main harness. Only couple of wires are attached to main harness and they are pictured in here:
GRN/WHT, Brake switch signal:
BRN, Service check connector signal:
...Which goes to the left:
BLU/RED: Warning lamp signal:
GRN/RED: Parking brake signal:
BLK/BLU (UKDM), the only wire color that didnt match to USDM schematics. USDM wire color is BLK/YEL: IG2.
Then i removed the ABS-computers second bracket and modified the integrated bracket to fit to Civics body:
Then the most painfully part, the hybrid version of EG and DC2 ABS harness.
I started to route rear ABS-sensor harness:
These clipses are used in these holes:
Rear ABS-harness was pretty much plug and play with EG/EJ body, I needed to remove some excess wire from it, but otherwise it was easy.
ITR ABS-harness in stock:
As you can see in the picture above, the harness that goes through the firewall (from under hood fusebox to the ABS-computer) is 40cm long. That aint gonna work with my Civics body and electronics. The main reason for this is that UKDM cars are RHD. So, i needed to de-pin all compatible wires from EG harness. The wire colors from ABS computer to the under dash fusebox are: BRN, BLK/YEL, GRN/RED, GRN/WHT, BLU/RED:
Then i needed to start thinking about other ABS-parts location so i could do a right length harness. I left open the thought about K-Series, and if this project ever goes to K-Series i think that its going to be a tight fit with ABS-parts. So, I will relocate the battery to the trunk to get some space for ABS-parts:
ABS fusebox test fit with double sided tape:
EG ABS-harness without major de-pinning:
I also got a OEM-front foglight wire from ITR-harness (my car really didnt have this wire!)
Is it true that DC5 ABS hydraulic unit has integrated ABS-computer? Cause i studied some DC2 vs DC5 ABS systems and they look very much like the same. I thought that if DC5 hydraulic unit doesnt have integrated ABS-computer, it might be possible to use it with DC2 ABS setup. DC5 unit is much smaller and lighter than DC2 hydraulics.
Comparison:
I measure every wire that i solder. I´m electronic engineer, but just to make sure everything works
- Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:29 pm
#340946
As for a ABS-computer mounting, I thought to add some vibration damping to it. I used computer fan/HDD silicone dampers:
Unit installed (I still need to do some weather protection to it):
Wire harness will go inside a wire mesh and they are clipped together with optical cable and 4AWG main power cable:
ABS-rear sensor wires "meshed up":
I didnt want to cut wires if there wasnt need to, so I tucked excess wires behind the ECU. The engine bay wire harness clips to that orange connector and its removable without removing ECU.
Then to the other things:
Front fogs to the CF ones (screws will be swapped to black ones):
Trunk light swapped to the version with a switch ( ):
Heaterbox ripped insulation foams swapped to new ones (model "P"):
Cleaned:
New:
There is still lots of wiring work ahead...
Then we go back to the PFHM:
Adding heat wire to Mirror switch connector. Color BLU, PIN8:
I removed OEM-relay connector from the old wiring harnesses and then i just swapped a right colored wires with pin endings to connector housing:
Wrong BLU/BLK swapped to BLU. The right wire with gold plated connector was taken from old heater harness:
Then i tried to find a OEM-install location to Mirror Heat Relay, but then i thought to install it between the Power Folding relay and sunroof relays. I bought OEM Mitsuba RC-2201 relay. I had aftermarket OEM Japan style relays, but the clicking sound from them was annoying when compared to OEM-relay, so thats why i bought OEM.
(After taking this picture, i realized that under dash fusebox has a perfect spot for mounting this relay, so i swapped it to there.)
I didnt wire up PFHM harness like it should have been wired in installation manuals. I wanted a cleaner install, so i routed it in a side of cars main harness, between the insulation and a firewall. Thanks to Deschlongs help (again!) i managed to route the wires to OEM door connectors (with correct pins ofc), so all the wires are going to the doors are going through the OEM door connectors
Tablet is a must have in these kind of works. Expecially if its dark:
The relay that i received with the mirrors is from Prelude, and thats why its has its own channel to the right and left mirrors. I didnt use both channels, cause it works with singe just fine. I will use the remaining channel to control a retractable front licence plate
This is how i did the Air Refiner filter: I cut out right size of piece. Opened it up a little bit (so it gets little more thin) and then used a cardboard to do the sides to it. Just hotglued the cardboard to the sides. Even that its already a charcoal activated filter, i still want to buy a thin charcoal pre-filter to it, so it looks cleaner and the Toyota filter is not visible
I also bought STP Black Gold Bulk Pack. 4,5 square meters STP:s new sound deadening mat.
Unit installed (I still need to do some weather protection to it):
Wire harness will go inside a wire mesh and they are clipped together with optical cable and 4AWG main power cable:
ABS-rear sensor wires "meshed up":
I didnt want to cut wires if there wasnt need to, so I tucked excess wires behind the ECU. The engine bay wire harness clips to that orange connector and its removable without removing ECU.
Then to the other things:
Front fogs to the CF ones (screws will be swapped to black ones):
Trunk light swapped to the version with a switch ( ):
Heaterbox ripped insulation foams swapped to new ones (model "P"):
Cleaned:
New:
There is still lots of wiring work ahead...
Then we go back to the PFHM:
Adding heat wire to Mirror switch connector. Color BLU, PIN8:
I removed OEM-relay connector from the old wiring harnesses and then i just swapped a right colored wires with pin endings to connector housing:
Wrong BLU/BLK swapped to BLU. The right wire with gold plated connector was taken from old heater harness:
Then i tried to find a OEM-install location to Mirror Heat Relay, but then i thought to install it between the Power Folding relay and sunroof relays. I bought OEM Mitsuba RC-2201 relay. I had aftermarket OEM Japan style relays, but the clicking sound from them was annoying when compared to OEM-relay, so thats why i bought OEM.
(After taking this picture, i realized that under dash fusebox has a perfect spot for mounting this relay, so i swapped it to there.)
I didnt wire up PFHM harness like it should have been wired in installation manuals. I wanted a cleaner install, so i routed it in a side of cars main harness, between the insulation and a firewall. Thanks to Deschlongs help (again!) i managed to route the wires to OEM door connectors (with correct pins ofc), so all the wires are going to the doors are going through the OEM door connectors
Tablet is a must have in these kind of works. Expecially if its dark:
The relay that i received with the mirrors is from Prelude, and thats why its has its own channel to the right and left mirrors. I didnt use both channels, cause it works with singe just fine. I will use the remaining channel to control a retractable front licence plate
This is how i did the Air Refiner filter: I cut out right size of piece. Opened it up a little bit (so it gets little more thin) and then used a cardboard to do the sides to it. Just hotglued the cardboard to the sides. Even that its already a charcoal activated filter, i still want to buy a thin charcoal pre-filter to it, so it looks cleaner and the Toyota filter is not visible
I also bought STP Black Gold Bulk Pack. 4,5 square meters STP:s new sound deadening mat.
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