Post YOUR Hatchback here
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By suspendedHatch
#60214 My build is a little bit different than the norm. I really hate body-kits, wings, street racing, and rice. I've seen first hand what can happen when you street race (a kid died a few hundred feet from my house). I have had nothing but problems with immature "tuners" revving on me on the street and then flipping me off when I refuse to race them. And my goddamned mother-in-law was in the car, not to mention the cops that were a block down the street! I have had problems with cops pulling me over because they associate me with ricers. And I have had problems with Mustang and Corvette drivers that make assumptions about me because I drive a Civic hatch. So my reaction has been to rebel and distance myself from the conventional Honda tuner scene. I don't have any Honda friends because they're all jerks. I try to make my car appear to be stock. I have had my car lowered with aftermarket rims but it just isn't worth it.

Besides that, I'm on my fourth modified car. This time I started over with the intention of having a reliable, fuel efficient, and comfortable car; yet I'm not satisfied with factory performance.

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Having owned several Hondas and never been fully satisfied, I decided to rethink exactly what my ideal car would be. What I came up with is that I want a car that has great handling, great braking, great power, and great economy. Essentially I want better performance than a Civic Si and better FE than a Civic VX (these being the only vehicles I could afford that have double wishbone suspension front and rear and an exceptionally low coefficient of drag matched to an economical motor). It seems like a pipe dream. But it just so happens that Honda had the same idea.


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From 1996-1999 Honda produced a motor that combined VTEC-E and VTEC into one. They didn't bring this motor to the United States. In Japan the block was stamped D15B. Across the rest of the eastern hemisphere, the block was stamped D15Z7.


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So last August I sold my Civic DX automatic that had a SOHC VTEC swap and bought a lowly Civic VX. I decided that I needed a chassis change because I wanted a manual transmission and I wanted many things that are only found on the VX, ie the rear diffuser, front lip spoiler (also found on Si), aluminum lower alternator mount, aluminum front lower driver's side engine mount, less sound deadening weight, "VTEC-E" valve cover, and lightweight alloy rims.

http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/version6/version6.EG/stealth_alarm/index.html

First thing I did was lock the car in the garage until I could install some serious car alarm security. It is a Honda afterall. "Honda" is synonymous with "stolen".

Then I did some maintenance on the motor and drove it that way for several months to give me a good baseline. My FE goal would be based on my own personal driving habits and my goal is to exceed this baseline w/out any sneaky tricks like driving like a near-sighted grandmother. My baseline avg was 38 mpg mixed, 44 highway.

The Rules
Which brings me to "the rules". To the general public, the car must outwardly appear to be stock; in other words, it's going to be a sleeper. I don't want to draw any attention from thieves, street racers, cops, or ricers.

Secondly, the car must outperform both the VX and the Si.

Third is not so much a rule as a constraint. My salary requires a very limited budget with long periods of time between expenditures.


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AEM EMS
So luckily, I already had the AEM EMS. "WHAT?! You have an EMS? Don't those go for thousands of dollars and require hundreds of dollars to have professionally installed and tuned?" Yes and yes. But I got one for $1100 in 2001 (at-cost to help with development), and I have a friend that is a professional tuner. It's a good thing too, because there is no other viable option available for me to realize my goal. Hondata simply isn't capable.

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AEM Gauge-Type Wideband O2
The next piece of equipment that I would need so that I could run lean mixtures is the AEM Gauge Type UEGO Controller. $260 ouch. But it's cheaper than competing products and far superior.
Last edited by suspendedHatch on Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:49 am, edited 4 times in total.
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By suspendedHatch
#60215 Distributor-less Ignition
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The AEM EMS allowed me to convert to distributor-less ignition. This allows much more precise control of the ignition timing. Four small coils are more efficient than one large coil because they have more time to charge before they fire (aka dwell). The AEM Twin Fire CDI Ignition module doubles the voltage and amperage of the ignition system. I bought some used Honda CBR coil-on-plugs (this was before AEM came out with the pencil coils) and a used MSD DIS-4. The DIS-4 was bad so I worked out a rent-to-own deal with my homeboy Scottie for his AEM Twin Fire since he blew up his race car anyway. Here is my write-up of the install: http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/version6/version6.EG/aem_twin_fire/index.html

Note that you can see the distributor in the picture. At the moment I can't afford a AEM EPM ("engine position module"). On a Honda, the cam and crank sensors are typically found inside the distributor. This is the reason why Honda distributors are so unreliable. The distributor also plugs a hole in the valve cover. The EPM replaces the distributor completely. It plugs the hole and provides a replacement hall-effect sensor to replace the weak factory cam sensor. The stronger AEM sensor is accurate into very high RPMs while the factory sensor tends to "wander" even within the factory redline and is vulnerable to ignition "noise".

Waste Spark
I wired the coils and configured the EMS for waste spark. Waste spark means that in addition to firing the coil at the correct time, you also fire it on the exhaust stroke. In theory this might reduce emissions, but I remain skeptical until I can see the results with a gas analyzer. It just so happens that I've been given the unfortunate opportunity to do a before/after emissions test (that's right I failed emissions and got a free re-test, might as well convert to DIS first). **Waste spark does not appear to help emissions. My HC's are higher than I would like.

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Engine Swap @ Motiva
I drove the car from San Diego to Albuquerque to enlist the help of my best friend Scottie at Motiva Performance Engineering. The guy is a genius and one of the few people who understands and respects my goals for the engine. He swapped the engine and tuned the EMS while I mostly took pictures.

Balanced and Blueprinted Injectors
I swapped over my 240CC OBD1 VTEC injectors which had been balanced and blueprinted by RC Engineering. This not only improves fuel flow but also the spray pattern. The result is injectors that are better than brand new factory injectors and that are more consistent from one cylinder to the next, resulting in a more accurate O2 reading so the ECU has more accurate control of the overall AFR.

And with that, the 220k mile factory D15Z1 and tranny went to the big recycler in the sky.

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Peak HP / Torque
The end result of tuning was 119hp and 99ft/lbs at the wheels! So at this point I have already exceeded the Si's power. The picture above shows over 30 dyno pulls (I think it only shows 9 at a time). The crazy spikes were caused by Scottie doing a long dyno pull with shifting. The time in the bottom right corner indicates that we finished tuning at 4:30AM.

He got the car to start up and idle reasonably well. We did some street tuning, and then I headed back to Salt Lake where I was left with finishing the street tuning myself. At this point I will recommend some reading material.

Recommended Reading (Tuning)
How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems: Jeff Hartman
Building and Tuning High Performance Fuel Injection: Ben Strader
Engine Management Advanced Tuning: Greg Banish
AEM EFI Basics: (download from their forum)

I will talk a great deal about tuning a standalone for economy at a later date.

HX Wheels
As for the physical wrenching on the car, the puny 13 inch VX alloys wouldn't fit the Integra front brakes, so I sold them and found a set of 14 inch lightweight HX rims. They could easily be mistaken for VX rims when seen on a 5th gen Civic. The Integra front calipers require a little bit of grinding or a spacer in order to fit the rim.


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You wont find HX wheels on ebay. If you find them on craigslist, they're painted and/or curbed. They're a ricer's favorite. Car-parts.com will search the nation's salvage yards. I found a set of three at a local junkyard and picked up the forth later.


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OBD1 LSD Transmission
The transmission I chose is from the earlier generation JDM D15B. This tranny has factory LSD and the SOHC VTEC gear ratios. Clearly this is not the most economical trans available, but remember that my goal is to exceed the stock VX economy; not get the most economy I possibly can. So this trans suits my overall goal of the ultimate daily driver.

Lightweight Flywheel
I replaced the flywheel with an 11lb Exedy flywheel and OEM replacement clutch. If you go too light with the flywheel it will waste gas because you will have to rev high to leave from a stop. The Exedy is only a couple lbs lighter than the stock VX flywheel, which in turn is lighter than the other SOHC flywheels.

Weight Reduction
I have been reducing weight where it is not perceptible to the driver or occupants.

Retained the VX's lightweight Alternator Mount
Retained the VX's lightweight Engine Mount
Removed Intake Manifold Bracket
Removed Rear Speakers
Removed front and rear Bumper Supports
Removed SRS System
Removed Driver's Knee Bolster
Removed Spare, Jack, and Tools
Removed Ignition Coil, Rotor, Ignitor, Plug Wires
Replaced Steering Wheel with a smaller non-SRS wheel
Replaced cast iron exhaust manifold w/ SS Header
Replaced intake pipe with aftermarket CAI
Replaced battery with Odyssey PC680MJT
Replaced suspension with Tokico RAK Coilovers
Swapped DC Integra front seats
Installed lightweight Rims (15in Rota Slipstreams for summer, 14in HX's for winter)
Installed lightweight Flywheel

Weight Additions
I've easily added as much weight as I've removed, and will probably add some more weight down the line. I like to think of it as getting rid of dead weight. The weight you add is functional and increases the useability of the vehicle. It's the same concept as adding a roll cage to a race car that has been stripped of it's interior. These are the items I feel are significant (included some negligible stuff).

90-91 Civic Si 15/16 brake Master Cylinder
DC Integra front/rear brake swap
Neuspeed front upper Strut Tower Brace
DC Integra front lower Crossmember Brace
DC Integra GSR front Swaybar
Progress 24mm adjustable Rear Swaybar
Larger diameter and wider Tires
AEM Twin Fire ignition module
CBR Ignition Coils
D15Z7 vs D15Z1 (slightly heavier?)

And before anyone makes a dumb internet comment, I'd like to say that I'm 7% body fat. I always have been.
Last edited by suspendedHatch on Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By suspendedHatch
#60216 Time for a dyno graph.

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The blue lines are from the first dyno pull we did. No tuning and no VTEC-E or VTEC engaged. Notice that the torque falls off rapidly starting at 4000 RPM. If you switch to 16 valves around 2500 RPM the graph climbs rapidly all the way past 5000 RPM. This is a point I try to make to people that plan to get a 3 Stage VTEC motor and have VTEC-E and VTEC engage at the same time. The ideal VTEC engagement point isn't until 5500 RPM or so for this motor. If you use a P28 ECU, it activates VTEC at 4800. So you'll have a big dip in torque caused by a late VTEC-E and an early VTEC. Not to mention that the OBD1 D-series maps have much more timing than is optimal for the OBD2 heads which are more efficient and have more quench area.

The first pull resulted in about 65 hp. The second pull (not shown) where the only change was turning both VTEC's on resulted in 110 hp. Tuning netted another 9hp at the peak, but even more impressively it raised the entire graph substantially.

Notice the big dip in power between 5000 and 5500 RPM. This is caused by my ebay CAI. You wont see this with the factory tuned intake. The huge hump starting at 4200 RPM needs to be shifted to the right. If I were to try different lengths and diameters of intake piping I could tune that dip right out. No off-the-shelf intake is going to be optimal for this engine except by coincidence due to its unusual cam.
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By suspendedHatch
#60217 In the short time that I've had this car I've driven it from California to Utah via Nevada, on through Colorado to New Mexico and back to California via Arizona. Multiple times in each direction.

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From Wilson Arch Utah near Moab.

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I took the picture from up there.

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Somewhere in New Mexico.

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Rio Rancho, New Mexico.
Last edited by suspendedHatch on Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By suspendedHatch
#60222 O2 Feedback

Here's my O2 target table. Essentially you have a fuel map that is a table of pulse-width values, aka time in milliseconds that your fuel injectors are open for various load and RPM cells. Then you have O2 feedback which allows the ECU to adjust from that pulse-width depending on how far off you are from your target AFR. The raw pulse-width table is pretty useless as a reference since it is so application specific. The O2 target is very useful however. Just don't try to run this lean on a conventional motor. Only the VTEC-E lean-burn motors can run this lean without lean misfires.

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Interpreting the Load / RPM Table

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Last edited by suspendedHatch on Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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By suspendedHatch
#60226 Utah Emissions Test

The Utah / Salt Lake emissions requirements are the same as California except that they don't regulate engine swaps or aftermarket parts so long as they're 49 State Legal (which in practice means that they don't care whether your intake and header are CARB exempt or an eBay special).

I had a problem failing on NOx. Ignition timing is critical to NOx. Changing the cat converter, bringing the ignition timing down from 24 degrees to 16, temporarily forcing 16 valve mode on, and running 91 octane brought me from 4100 ppm to 1100 ppm. This is what my ignition timing table looks like now.

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The smog test measures the cells beneath the word "smog" in this table. The test that the manufacturer has to take when getting their car approved for sale in the US is much more difficult. Total exhaust emissions are captured in a large bag while the car is "driven" on a dyno in a simulated everyday driving experience. In other words, nearly every cell in the above table is relevant. The OEM would not be able to get away with running as lean and with as much advanced ignition timing as I am running in the cruise region.
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By kimosabe
#60255 wow nice !
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By suspendedHatch
#60279 Thanks. Not nearly as clean as yours. But it gets the groceries!
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By CivicTypeR
#60298 Wow, you're really putting your cash into this :eh:
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By suspendedHatch
#60346 Actually I broke even when I sold my old hatch for $3500, bought this hatch for 2 grand, and then bought the motor, trans, clutch, and flywheel on ebay for less than $1500. The EMS I've had for years. The Twin Fire was loaned to me. The suspension, wheels, exhaust, intake, Integra seats etc were swapped over from my DX before I sold it. The CBR coils I got on ebay for about $20. The stereo I got for $100 on an employee auction when I used to work at Best Buy. Considering that I went from 28 city mpg to 39, I'm actually in the black with this car. :lol:

When I get my financial situation straightened out, you'll start to see some real progress on this car. First thing I'm going to do is get some mandrel bends and two long resonators to go with my muffler so I can have a straight-thru, yet super quiet exhaust. Before the winter rolls around I'm going to replace my alarm with the new Viper 5701 remote start for manual transmissions. I need some tires for the HX rims so I can put the Rotas on my Integra. I plan to get an AEM EPM so I can completely ditch the distributor. Then I want to get head work, pistons, and block strengthening done by Endyn. That will increase my power and mpg. I would like to talk to Bisi about a replacement cam and a custom made intake. Possibly a header. The paint needs to be fixed in a couple spots, and I'd like to get some OEM replacement carpet. I want to tint the windows slightly. Then of course there's the audio system which I will be doing myself since I'm an installer. I'm going to make custom kick panels in the front for some components. Then I'm going to make a form fitting amp rack for the hatch with the amp completely stealth. Finally, I'll install some infinite baffle subs in the rear quarter panels where the rear speakers used to be.
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By LaMbErT*
#60359 Some work being put into this little beast!


Give it a good clean tho :lol: :lol:
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By suspendedHatch
#60491 And lose all the New Mexico sand and Arizona bugs? Hell no! It was too much work getting it all caked on there.

I'm afraid that if I wash all the bugs off, the car wont be green anymore.
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By suspendedHatch
#60493 I might as well copy over my HOTM attempt. I put Utah plates and Rota Slipstreams on the car since these pictures were taken.

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1992 Honda Civic VX
JDM D15B 3 Stage VTEC (D15Z7)

39 mpg city
47 mpg highway
119 whp
99 ft/lbs
Bluetooth
Ipod
2 Way Paging Alarm
Remote Start
Keyless Entry
Trunk Pop
VTEC-E
VTEC
Waste Spark
Rear Disc Brakes
Moonroof
Wideband O2 Gauge
Air Conditioning
Intermittent Wipers (swapped from a DX)

Engine
JDM D15B 3 Stage VTEC
EGR delete (Y8 Intake Manifold)
ebay CAI
AEM Dryflow Filter
DC 421 Stainless Header
Magnaflow Muffler

Engine Management
AEM EMS
AEM Gauge Type UEGO
AEM Twin Fire
Honda CBR Ignition Coils (Waste Spark Conversion)

Trans
JDM D15B LSD Trans
Exedy 11lb flywheel

Suspension
Tokico RAK Coilovers (modest drop)
extended Upper Spring Perches
GSR 24mm Front Swaybar
Progress 24mm Adjustable Rear Swaybar
Neuspeed Front Upper Strut Brace
DC Integra Front Lower Crossmember Brace
Adjustable Rear Compensator Arms
Prothane Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

Brakes
94 Integra Brake / Suspension swap (incl Prop Valve)
90 Civic Si Master Cylinder
SS Braided Brake Lines
Brembo Rotors, Metalmaster Pads

Wheels
(Summer) 15 inch bronze Rota Slipstreams
(Winter) Civic HX Rims

Interior
Pioneer BT / Ipod Stereo
Grant Steering Wheel (SRS delete)
DC Front Seats
AEM Wideband O2 Sensor Gauge
DC Hatch Light

Security
Viper 5900
Door Lock Actuators
Driver's Priority Unlock
Trunk Pop Actuator
Crutchfield AU94T Motion Sensor
DEI Tilt Sensor
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By CivicTypeR
#60499 What's 3 stage VTEC? :?
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By ohDirka
#60509 wow great build write up man :thumb: I just learned more about the 3 stage VTEC while reading this than I have in the 4 years I've owned a Honda.