94' Si w/B16A "Snow White" *Update: Fog HID's and

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Parastic Drain Test

By bigJOE671
- Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:41 pm #315938 So my battery has been dying and I been trying to figure out why. I did some research online and decided to do a Parastic Drain test.

Now for the results!
When I first tested it I got 107-109ma. I troubleshooted it to the ceiling light. The ceiling light was in the door position and all doors were closed.

Now when I turned the ceiling light to the off position. I got a parastic drain of 22-27ma. I pulled all my fuses and nothing changed that reading. Is this acceptable? I got a 2 way paging alarm.

Wouldn't the ceiling light in the door position with the doors closed shouldn't be pulling any milliamps? Mine is pulling 85ma with it.

FYI...When I installed a LCD light for the dome light would still be lighted up when in the door position and doors closed, but not as bright when its in the on position. So I just switched it back to the stock incandecent light bulb.

If I leave the dome light in the off position it would not trigger my alarm but if i leave it on the door position my alarm would be triggered if I opened the door/doors.
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By bigJOE671
- Wed Sep 19, 2012 7:02 pm #316038 Here's an update...since i'm letting my battery charge.

My mileage has stopped working so I found another speedometer with almost the same mileage
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This is one of my wire harness...gonna clean it up a lil bit
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Car battery getting low issue

By bigJOE671
- Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:55 pm #316476 First off my car had a no start issue which led me to troubleshoot a couple things.

First off was to check my battery's voltage: 11:89...not good in my book. So I charged it. BAM! voltage within limits after a couple hours. I think it was fixed. After 2 days of it being charged It didn't want to start again! :x Now I buy a new battery just to make sure it wasn't the battery. So I did some research.

Next test that I did was a parastic draw test. Results were 111ma of draw. Troubleshooted down to my dome light. With dome light in door position and door closed it was pulling that amount of miliamps. In the off position, it was only pulling 24-27miliamps. Mind you I have a 2-way paging alarm. So I charged up my battery again and left the dome light in the off position. Next thing you know it didn't want to start the next day. :x FML!

So now I'm thinking I got a short or something. So I disconnect my alarm and the parastic draw test shows 7ma of draw. Charged up battery again cuz it was low and now she starts again :) Next day she started but it was kind of weak if you ask me. So now I'm thinking its my charging system.

I did a couple of test with my charging system.
idling at 900rpm no accessories on: 12.28 volts
idling at 900rpm with accessories on: 11.86 volts
@ 2000rpm no accesories on: 12.64 volts

Now I think my alternator is bad :x I put the results of this text on a couple of forums and they tell me my alternator is dying and they said I should change it. As I was doing more research I came across an alternator thread where a guy was having the same voltage issue as me. He changed his alternator and still got the same results. :?

I don't feel like spending $100+ and not fixing the problem. Some they had a couple more tests like checking for continuity between the alternator and + battery connector. Also to look at grounds.

My test between alternator connector and battery connector yielded .02 ohms of resistance...which seemed pretty good to me. Next was to look at my engine bay grounds. I FOUND THEM ALL CORRODED!!!! Seems like the problem. So I cleaned the - battery terminal to body which was corroded. Same with the transmission to the chassis and the one with the thermostat gound was not in great shape.

Finally when I did all of that I decided to do a parastic draw test. Results: 3ma of draw compared to a week earlier which was 7ma of draw.

Now I started my car with the battery volts @ 12.31 which is below average. It started like when I first got her! Pretty Fast! So I did the check for the charging system

idling with no accessories on 14.28 volts
idling with headlight, AC, radio, and defroster on 14.10 volts.

Damn that was a stressful problem!
Last edited by bigJOE671 on Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By Punksz6
- Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:01 pm #316505 Dang man that does seem pretty stressful. Not to mention trying to narrow it down. At least you have answers for anyone that ever has the same issues. :thumb:
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By bigJOE671
- Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:20 am #316617
Punksz6 wrote:Dang man that does seem pretty stressful. Not to mention trying to narrow it down. At least you have answers for anyone that ever has the same issues. :thumb:


Yeah it took me almost a month just to figure it out...but I only had like 1 or 2 days out of the week to work on her.

At least I had my bike to take me around when my car wouldn't start.
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By bigJOE671
- Wed Oct 10, 2012 3:02 pm #317639 So I found out my rear left speaker ain't making no more sound about a week ago. Decided to investigate the problem.

I checked the radio harness and it looked good. So I looked at the speaker...couldn't see the wires but I can feel for it and 1 wire was just hanging

Connected it and it fixed the no sound problem. Now I notice my front speaker and making a sound. Checked for continuity between the speaker and the radio harness...No good

I hate looking for an open in a wire...time consuming
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By bigJOE671
- Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:58 am #318128 Today I drove my friend's Lexus IS 250 with cat-back exhaust. Lets say its faster than my B16 hatch.

Here's the vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_tIM5f5 ... ture=g-upl

Don't mind the tire warning light. One of the sensors hasn't been switched over in the rim.
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