Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:27 am #1692 i need help wit changin out my auto tranny for a manuel one.. i got all the parts n everything that i need... but i got no clue where to start. .i have an idea of wut needs to be done.. but ne information and links will be helpful. especially if ne of u guys have a step by step process of wut needs to be done.. thanks in advance

[teal_dx]

- Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:50 pm #1700 I'm in the middle of this swap so it is fresh in my memory...
Definitely have a manual handy, below are the cliff notes.

First be sure you have EVERYTHING... (there's a lot of misc stuff)

Linkage, shifter, manual ecu, shifter bushings, manual rear motor mount, auto to manual conversion passenger motor mount, lower front tranny mount bracket, manual axles, clutch, flywheel, flywheel bolts, manual pedal set, manual throttle cable, clutch master & slave cylinder, clutch lines, manual starter, clutch shield cover thingy (goes over hole on bottom of tranny, spring pin (to connect linkage to tranny aka bitch pin), manual engine harness, ex/si cluster w/ tach (optional), you can keep your radiator, just cap the lines where the tranny fluid used to go.

Start by removing axles/engine, exhaust. Pull the tranny, replace the torque converter & auto flywheel with manual flywheel & cutch assembly. Use Manual flywheel bolts! Replace the throwout bearing while you're at it. Install slave cylinder. Then remove the auto shifter, cable, and pedals (these are a pain in the ass!) Remove the small blue box where the clutch pedal will go. Install master cyl and clutch pedal. Install clutch lines (hard and soft, or buy a stainless braided line) Install the manual gas/brake pedal set too, the auto brake pedal is too wide.

Rip out the auto shifter & cable. (bolts will probably be rusted- get your drill ready) Seal the hole closer to the firewall where the cable used to go through. Drill 2 holes to install your manual shifter assembly (the 2 holes are for the shifter bushing bolts).
Install engine/tranny after installing manual starter & manual wiring harness (92 harnesses don't have the MAP sensor, so if your car is 92, use a manual harness from a 92. If it is 93-95, use a 93-95 harness). Install the mounts. Hook everything back up Connect shifter linkage with spring pin. Install manual axles. Add all fluids (coolant, oil, tranny, clutch + bleed lines) Connect all vaccum lines + sensors.

Wiring:
On the plug for the auto shifter assembly, there are 2 really thick wires. These need to be wired to the clutch pedal sensor so that you will have to push your clutch in to start your car. Or you can just connect these 2 wires together but be sure your car is in neutral every time you turn the key.

Then there is a black wire you will need to connect to a green wire with a white stripe. This puts the car in ?park? so you can take the key out. Now you can also hook this up to the other switch on the clutch pedal, but remember everytime you want to take your key out, you have to press the clutch. And be sure your key is out of the car when you do the swap or your key will be locked in the ignition (i've been told- not sure about that).

Finally, you need to find out what plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission.
Find out what colors they are, and find the colors on one of the ECU plugs. You should find it at the ECU plug that has all of the auto tranny sensors. A multimeter helps a lot because there are multiple colors.
Run these two wires to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work.

Don't forget to plug in your manual ECU.

Here's the text version, Overtime I'll be adding more with pics as I take them during my swap...

Last edited by teal_dx on Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:30 am, edited 2 times in total.

- Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:05 pm #1716 omg thanks soo much that was hella pimp.. great write up.. doin it this weekend hopefully everything turns out ok..

[teal_dx]

- Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:46 pm #1718 while you have everything apart, it's an easy time to do the timing belt, waterpump. Also motor mount inserts if you want to go that route.

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 1:09 am #1723 well see the whole thing is that instead of selling my hatch im juss going to switch its tranny with the eg coupe that i have.. same year n everything... make the hatch stick n the coupe will have the auto tranny that is in my hatch now.. then hopefully sell the coupe. since i wont be needing it ne more.. the whole thing is really confusing to me.. since ive never done it before.. dont know wut bolts to open wut parts to pull out.. that sort of thing..

[teal_dx]

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 2:57 am #1727 that's gonna be 2 huge projects! The only problem I see is putting the auto in the coupe. auto & manual civics have the passenger side mount in different places, about 2 inches difference. You would have to cut it off the frame and re-weld it in the right place- pain in the ass! Since so many people swap out their auto tranny for a manual one, companies make an auto to manual mount:


Here's an auto to manual mount, notice the mount extends back a couple extra inches so the engine will sit straight when put in a civic that was originally automatic.

I have never heard of a company making a mount to put an auto tranny into a civic that originally had a manual tranny though... It would have to be the opposite of the mount in the pic.

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:18 am #1733 wow that is a great write-up!! i just had this done by a shop and after seeing what all is needed i could have done it myself

mensalmanac

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:55 am #1739 so pretty much im going to need all the wires from the manual right... now how am i supposed to hook them up to the auto one.. and about the clutch lines.. i heard if they bend outta shape they get screwed up. this true? and is there ne where that u guys know of thatll rent out power tools cause opening up the bolts witout power tools is a pain...

[teal_dx]

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 2:41 pm #1747 I have never heard of anybody wiring a manual civic to accept automatic. That is also going to be a headache. You are the first person I know of who has ever attempted this! There's lots of info for going from auto to manual, but nothing on going from manual to auto.
As for renting power tools, might try something like autozone. They have automotive tools you can rent like dampner puulers and spring compressors, but not sure about air tools or anything like that. Be sure to pick up a can of PB blaster. Spray it on bolts and let it sit before you loosen them, that stuff works great. The clutch line has a solid line along the firewall, then a rubber line that connects from the solid line to the tranny. You can flex the solid line some when you're installing it, but if you bend it too much or if it kinks then you'll need a new one. It isn't that easy to damage it. I would invest in a multi-meter, the wiring is going to be some work on the auto.

[teal_dx]

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:51 pm #1758 Oh another thing I just thought of is the automatic civics have a different part on the throttle body where the throttle cable connects. That piece also has the cable connecting to it from the auto tranny. So you can use an auto throttle body on a manual civic, but not a manual throttle body on an automatic civic.

- Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:52 pm #1781 ok cool thanks for the info.. imma be counting on u to help me out a lil bit every now and then seeing as how ive never done this kinda job before.. so i finally finished taking out all the parts i need from the coupe(manual civic) and am starting to take parts out of the auto.. so far so good..

- Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:13 pm #1816 i have a quick question.. how do i take off the manual pedals.. from manual pedals i mean the clutch brake n gas?

[teal_dx]

- Mon Jan 29, 2007 3:47 am #1828 you gotta crawl up under the dash, unhook the throttle cable & disconnect the wires. Then pull out the pins that connect the pedal to the cyl. Next there is 4 nuts holding in the clutch pedal, the bolts come thru the firewall and connect from the master cyl body.
The bolts for the brake/gas are the same way, except I think there is 1 extra. To get the gas/brake pedals out, you will prob have to drop the steering column down to make room to slide the pedals over and pull them out. The pedals are the hardest part because there's no room. I had my dash out when I did mine, made it easier to work. But I'm not sure if you can d it with the dash in or not.

[teal_dx]

- Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:49 pm #1848 Here is some wiring details I found at http://z14.invisionfree.com/EJ1_Owners_ ... topic=2532

You will notice the 14-wire plug at the old automatic shifter location. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly and leave about 5? of wire.

1. STARTER SENSOR: Run two wires from the clutch pedal assembly (clutch interlock switch) to the two heavy gauge wires (#11 & #12) at the plug. This will allow the car to only crank when the clutch pedal is depressed.

2. TO CRANK CAR: Spot the 2-wire plug with two heavy gauge black wires. Connect them in a 'closed' loop. - I found this information online, but did not do this step. The plug mentioned goes to the distributor and I can't see any purpose in looping it.

3. CRUISE CONTROL SENSOR: Run two wires from the clutch pedal assembly (cruise control disable switch) to the two wires (#7 black & #13 pink). This will disable the cruise control once the clutch is depressed.

4. TO REMOVE KEY IN IGNITION: Unplug the harness from the blue Interlock box located behind the dash to the upper left of the clutch pedal

5. REVERSE LIGHT: Run two wires from manual tranny plug (yellow & green) to the yellow #4 & green/black #5 of the auto shifter cut plug.

If you do not do step 1, you will be able to crank the car without depressing the clutch, if you don't do step 3 you will not be able to have full functioning cruise control (My car never had it, so I don't know for sure)

Last edited by teal_dx on Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.

- Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:01 am #1855 where can i find a auto to manual motor mount... and how much do they usually go for.. wud rather juss buy one then weld the old one