manual rack question

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manual rack question

By jayEGR
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:06 am #252162 my question is, manual rack and pinion better than a power rack? and will it fit directly with a 95 coupe or can it also be used for a sedans. I just want to double check and make sure, so an answer from an eg guru is appreciated. So is manual a better way to go when your not running with power steering ?
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By Classiccarsrule85
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:09 am #252167 when you have a power steering rack and no power steering pump id say itd be easier and probaly cause less damage to the rack if you used a manual steering rack any eg manual rack will work the subframe however i think is different but unsure.....

mainly since the p/s rack is lubed by fluid and built for that fact ive driven in cars with a p/srack and no p/s id say its alot easier to drive a car with a manual rack instead of p/s
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By forcefedEG
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:29 am #252175 I personally prefer a manual rack, and yes 100% sure the cross members are different. A power rack cross member has a notch where the rack bolts up for the larger diameter rack to clear.(the power racks are bigger around) where as the crossmember for a manual rack is flat where it bolts up,

People say you can loop a power racks lines together and its ok, but I personally don't prefer it. I like the more direct feel to the wheels that a manual rack has.....

Just my .02
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By Datsmart
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:00 pm #252247 Be aware the manual rack has a slower ratio than a power rack.
Manual is 3.5 turns lock to lock.
Power is 3.0 turns lock to lock.
So a Power rack has a faster ratio than the manual.
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By jayEGR
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:26 pm #252255 well thx guys :thumb
iam goin to have do do a lil bit more research on this
and checkin in with you guys more on fitment and what datsmrt said about the whole turn and lock situation
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By forcefedEG
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:05 pm #252262 You will never notice the .5 turn difference its virtually non existent the 3.5 is lock to lock all the way from the left to right so from the center is only a .25 turn difference you'll never notice.the difference in the supposed "quick ratio power rack"
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By 95c1v1c
- Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:05 pm #252296 Need manual subframe swap, unless you doctor your brackets. The passenger side mount holes don't line up perfect.

About the turning ratio...quaife.com sells a ratio kit for the manual rack.
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By 95c1v1c
- Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:21 am #252387 If you do it 100% stock, the hardest part is swapping subframes, but you can also manipulate the passenger side bracket....which you run the risk of destroying your rack due to binding if something goes wrong. I swapped everything out, its a heavy job but satisfying at the end.
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By Classiccarsrule85
- Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:51 am #252393 if you have the tools and the know how and the elbow grease it shouldnt be too difficult and in the end your car will thank you by giving you a bit more mpg and some un noticed pickup 8)

id say teh hardest part of the whole thing is tracking down the cross member and if you do find one id try and get the whole assebly with the rack attatched strip it paint it replace the inner and outer tie rods and boots while its out of the car and then unbolt the p/s setup while the cars safely up in the air you may want two jacks when lowering your old cross member im just trying to picture in my head how id do things then just move the old brace assembly out and pop the new one in torque her down and go get an alignment and never worry about p/s pumps fluid or leaky racks again!

P.s. haveing the right tools will make this job very very very easy aka air tools like an impact go along way
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By Datsmart
- Tue Apr 26, 2011 4:58 pm #252438 I did some research and here are the numbers I came up with:
______________Ratio__Turns Lock to Lock
Manual ________19.0:1 _____ 4.0
Power Steering__17.5:1 _____ 3.6
ITR ___________16.0:1 _____ 2.98
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By jayEGR
- Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:18 pm #252439
Classiccarsrule85 wrote:if you have the tools and the know how and the elbow grease it shouldnt be too difficult and in the end your car will thank you by giving you a bit more mpg and some un noticed pickup 8)

id say teh hardest part of the whole thing is tracking down the cross member and if you do find one id try and get the whole assebly with the rack attatched strip it paint it replace the inner and outer tie rods and boots while its out of the car and then unbolt the p/s setup while the cars safely up in the air you may want two jacks when lowering your old cross member im just trying to picture in my head how id do things then just move the old brace assembly out and pop the new one in torque her down and go get an alignment and never worry about p/s pumps fluid or leaky racks again!

P.s. haveing the right tools will make this job very very very easy aka air tools like an impact go along way

thx man this is good info , but would it be easier if i had the motor out or is it possible put the subframe and whole rack in with the motor in
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By jayEGR
- Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:20 pm #252440
Datsmart wrote:I did some research and here are the numbers I came up with:
______________Ratio__Turns Lock to Lock
Manual ________19.0:1 _____ 4.0
Power Steering__17.5:1 _____ 3.6
ITR ___________16.0:1 _____ 2.98

good info and learn as i go, good shit :thumb:
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By 95c1v1c
- Tue Apr 26, 2011 9:27 pm #252483
jayEGR wrote:
Classiccarsrule85 wrote:if you have the tools and the know how and the elbow grease it shouldnt be too difficult and in the end your car will thank you by giving you a bit more mpg and some un noticed pickup 8)

id say teh hardest part of the whole thing is tracking down the cross member and if you do find one id try and get the whole assebly with the rack attatched strip it paint it replace the inner and outer tie rods and boots while its out of the car and then unbolt the p/s setup while the cars safely up in the air you may want two jacks when lowering your old cross member im just trying to picture in my head how id do things then just move the old brace assembly out and pop the new one in torque her down and go get an alignment and never worry about p/s pumps fluid or leaky racks again!

P.s. haveing the right tools will make this job very very very easy aka air tools like an impact go along way

thx man this is good info , but would it be easier if i had the motor out or is it possible put the subframe and whole rack in with the motor in


Did mine with motor in, comeplete with subframe. I agree with other poster about rebuilding the rack while out of the car first.
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By jayEGR
- Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:25 am #252690 well i the other day i seen what you guys were talkn about the subframe and replacing the whole thin with a manual rack , but man that shit has to be on a lift to work on it that looks like alot of work on the floor :thumb:
but its possible
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