Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:48 am #186934

if i forget something essential please do tell.....and as for the rods i think im going to get them shot peen'd .

umm get the arp head studs
make sure you get the p28
all tho you want power, keep all SMOG items on the car
make sure you torque everything to spec


ya are you gonna resize them after you shot peen'd them?

i retake my thoughts about the shot peend ill just keep them stock
by smog items u mean catalyst?
im going to need a torque wrench to keep everything to spec rite?
now for the nooby question when they tune it there tuning the ecu or what?

ya keep the cat, the evap canister, all that stuff
ya torque wreches arent too much, i got one at harbor frieght for 20 bucks

and i believe they tune off the ecu, not 100% sure there

you read my mind about getting that stuff off harbor....them tuning the ecu wouldnt that affect emission tho.?

i dont think so, not really sure, just when they tune it, ask them to keep smog in mind or go to a tune shop and ask if you can still pass smog and have what you want

dam im off to use the calculator and calculate around how much this is all gonna cost........is there a book that will help when i start build the engine ?

it shouldnt cost to much, around 1000-1500 maybe

and ya thats what im thinkin they could help pass smog for you

my last question before i call it a day......what brand spring,retainers,valves do recomend

Bisimoto's if your gonna run his cam
and i want ur rims

you want my mint si rims ill post up the cost calculation 2marrow..

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:50 am #186935 yes i want them, it shouldnt be too much

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:54 am #186936

:twisted: yes i want them, it shouldnt be too much

i dont even have steelies to rock

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:55 am #186937

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:03 am #186942

:lol:

i cant find the spring,retainers on the bisimoto website

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:06 am #186943 http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=79

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:14 am #186946

http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_9_31_33&products_id=79

thx

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:18 am #186949 forshizzle

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:21 am #186952

forshizzle

the cost is gonna be around 3400 for everything..

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:29 am #186955 wow really.. holy shit

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:15 pm #186992

wow really.. holy shit

yea i didnt think ot was going to be that much ....but yea depending on how much there gonna charge for the head tobe port and polished and how much the charge for tuning that should be the cost.

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:22 pm #187007 dont do the port n poilsh, are you gonna build the motor your self?

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:06 pm #187022

dont do the port n poilsh, are you gonna build the motor your self?

Yea im gonna do it myself....is there a book that can help me

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:35 pm #187026 Use the Helm's manual when you're building it. Use all the stock torque specs for everything but the head studs, since you're going with ARP. I called ARP a while back and they said to torque the head stud nuts to 85ft/lbs on a B16A3 I was working on. That's 5ft/lbs more than with the stock head bolts. I'm not sure what it would be for the D-series, but I imagine not too different.

Link for the Factory Maintanance Manual: http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals?SID ... da989d6b45

PLEASE don't buy a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. The accuracy of the torque spec versus the reading is plus or minus 6%. If you're trying to torque to 100ft/lbs, you could be doing anywhere from 94-106ft/lbs with that specific torque instrument. For $80, my Craftsman torque wrench has a tolerance of plus 1% minus 1.5% as measured by the calibration company I have to send it out to every year. Trust me, you don't want your engine to be built on a +/-6% tolerance. That's like saying, "I need 83mm pistons", and the shop sends you a set of 88mm pistons because they have a +/-6% tolerance on the size of their pistons.

When it comes to precision tools, more is better to an extent. My Craftsman torque wrench is just as good as any Snap-On torque wrench as far as the quality of the tool. Only problem is that the Snap-On warranty is lifetime and Craftsman is 90 day.

As with car parts, you get what you pay for.

Hi, I'm John. I'm a hacky sackin', rock climbin', scuba divin', aircraft mechanic.

- Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:55 pm #187032

Use the Helm's manual when you're building it. Use all the stock torque specs for everything but the head studs, since you're going with ARP. I called ARP a while back and they said to torque the head stud nuts to 85ft/lbs on a B16A3 I was working on. That's 5ft/lbs more than with the stock head bolts. I'm not sure what it would be for the D-series, but I imagine not too different.

Link for the Factory Maintanance Manual: http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals?SID ... da989d6b45

PLEASE don't buy a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. The accuracy of the torque spec versus the reading is plus or minus 6%. If you're trying to torque to 100ft/lbs, you could be doing anywhere from 94-106ft/lbs with that specific torque instrument. For $80, my Craftsman torque wrench has a tolerance of plus 1% minus 1.5% as measured by the calibration company I have to send it out to every year. Trust me, you don't want your engine to be built on a +/-6% tolerance. That's like saying, "I need 83mm pistons", and the shop sends you a set of 88mm pistons because they have a +/-6% tolerance on the size of their pistons.

When it comes to precision tools, more is better to an extent. My Craftsman torque wrench is just as good as any Snap-On torque wrench as far as the quality of the tool. Only problem is that the Snap-On warranty is lifetime and Craftsman is 90 day.

As with car parts, you get what you pay for.

Thx for the info on the torque wrench...