General engine questions/issues that aren't specific to the other categories
By jmoshe
#154755 Noticed that my car has lost some power especially at start ups and stops, I noticed that on 1 spark plug when removed it is covered with oil... The other 3 are clean and fine..
Do i need to replace the head gasket or could it be that the piston rings of that cylinder is bad ?
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By egsedanguy
#154789 i would say piston ring.. need to do a compression test on it to see if you on low on that cylinder. if it was head gasket you would see coolant in the oil and lots of smoke out the exaustpipe.
By jmoshe
#154806
egsedanguy wrote:i would say piston ring.. need to do a compression test on it to see if you on low on that cylinder. if it was head gasket you would see coolant in the oil and lots of smoke out the exaustpipe.



Thanks, I do lose about 1.5-2 quarts of oil every 2-3 weeks and do see smoke upon start ups in the mornings... looks like all the signs are pointing to the piston rings... does this look like the engine is headed for a major overhaul ?
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By Dippin_EG
#154819 could it be that the spark plug gasket went bad?

Another great way to find the problem would be to do a cylinder leakage test. that will tell you whether its a burnt/cracked intake/exhaust valve, or piston rings, but to do so, you need a leakdown tester.
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By chrono404
#154821 I had the same issue on my d15b7. Turned out I had a leaky valve.

My car would smoke when first started up, then clear up, when i got on it it felt as if I hit VTEC, Which I am assuming was the 4th plug clearing out and start firing and then Lots of smoke came out the exhaust.

It could be your piston rings, it could be you have a bad valve like I did. If you still have the stock d15b7 engine thats in your car, Now would be a good time to swap in a better engine. Even the JDM D15b and ZC VTEC or D16z6 are good easy swaps. If you get a replacement engine I would recommend getting an engine from Japan as opposed to a worn out US Market Engine.

If you want to keep this engine, I would recommend doing a compression test and see what your numbers are, If your numbers are low put a little oil in each plug hole and see if they go up. If so its probably a Ring issue.

If you have good numbers such as 180ish, Its probably a bad valve.
By jmoshe
#154823
chrono404 wrote:I had the same issue on my d15b7. Turned out I had a leaky valve.

My car would smoke when first started up, then clear up, when i got on it it felt as if I hit VTEC, Which I am assuming was the 4th plug clearing out and start firing and then Lots of smoke came out the exhaust.

It could be your piston rings, it could be you have a bad valve like I did. If you still have the stock d15b7 engine thats in your car, Now would be a good time to swap in a better engine. Even the JDM D15b and ZC VTEC or D16z6 are good easy swaps. If you get a replacement engine I would recommend getting an engine from Japan as opposed to a worn out US Market Engine.

If you want to keep this engine, I would recommend doing a compression test and see what your numbers are, If your numbers are low put a little oil in each plug hole and see if they go up. If so its probably a Ring issue.

If you have good numbers such as 180ish, Its probably a bad valve.


What would an engin from Japan cost me approximately and what engine model number ? Where could I get one ?
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By chrono404
#154837
jmoshe wrote:What would an engin from Japan cost me approximately and what engine model number ? Where could I get one ?

Depends on what you get, a JDM D15b (VTEC not VTEC-E) go for around 500 plus shipping.

You can get them on either hmotorsonline or tigerjapanase(Engine + Transmission, Engine Only).

Your local import shop might have them as well, Make sure you get a VTEC version of the JDM D15b and not the VTEC-E Model, Both say D15b as their engine code hoever the vtec-e model has "VTEC-E" on the valve cover, the VTEC model has only "VTEC"
By jmoshe
#154950
Dippin_EG wrote:could it be that the spark plug gasket went bad?

Another great way to find the problem would be to do a cylinder leakage test. that will tell you whether its a burnt/cracked intake/exhaust valve, or piston rings, but to do so, you need a leakdown tester.


Appreciate the input.. Could I buy a Lead downtester and do it myself ? Any idea what it'll cost to have it done at a service shop ?
By jmoshe
#154951
chrono404 wrote:
jmoshe wrote:What would an engin from Japan cost me approximately and what engine model number ? Where could I get one ?

Depends on what you get, a JDM D15b (VTEC not VTEC-E) go for around 500 plus shipping.

You can get them on either hmotorsonline or tigerjapanase(Engine + Transmission, Engine Only).

Your local import shop might have them as well, Make sure you get a VTEC version of the JDM D15b and not the VTEC-E Model, Both say D15b as their engine code hoever the vtec-e model has "VTEC-E" on the valve cover, the VTEC model has only "VTEC"


Thanks,... I will certainly look into swapping the engine... I checked on line... costs about 600 bucks... Any idea what a shop will charge me for the labor to put one in ?
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By egsedanguy
#154980 put it in yourself.. if its the same motor then you wont have to change nothing.. just unbolt and unplug any lines, hoses, wires, axels mounts and it will come right out, then put the new motor in the same way. when i did my swap from a d to a b it was supper easy.. i pulled the ls engine, my d engine and put the ls back in mine, only took a total of around 15hrs. or about 2 days. easly done in a weekend plus will give you a better idea of how easy hondas are to work on.. :thumb:
By jmoshe
#155198
egsedanguy wrote:put it in yourself.. if its the same motor then you wont have to change nothing.. just unbolt and unplug any lines, hoses, wires, axels mounts and it will come right out, then put the new motor in the same way. when i did my swap from a d to a b it was supper easy.. i pulled the ls engine, my d engine and put the ls back in mine, only took a total of around 15hrs. or about 2 days. easly done in a weekend plus will give you a better idea of how easy hondas are to work on.. :thumb:

Boy ! you make it sound easy... I have never swapped a motor before .. however I am mechcnically inclined and I would love to do it as a challange.... I have swapped AC's, alt.'s fuel pumps... and other parts around the motor... Is there a manual or some kind of step by step instructions to swap a motor for this car and what tools would I need?
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By egsedanguy
#155206 well it is easy. all you need is a basic tool set. 6mm,8mm.10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm and a axel socket. braker bar, jack, and thats about it.. like i said it was also my first swap when i did mine.. jack up the front, remove front wheels and remove axel nut, and lower ball joint. then slip the axels out. next diss connect all wires from motor, and radiator hose, power steering line and fuel line, be sure not to lose the 2 copper washers from the fuel line, also just pull the radiator out to guve more room. next you need to unbolt the header from the exaust then disconect the shift linkage. once you have done this you will have 2 staibleizer mounts in the front, the mount on the pass side, driver side and on the fire wall. and blam it will be out.. you can take the motor out from the bottom if you dont have a engine hoist, just have to get the front up as high as possible. just use a jack to help lower the motor down and slid it out. then repeat backward to install. :thumb: if you and atleast 1 more person do this you will have it swaped in a few hours. trust me its cake. i hardly even got my hands dirty doing mine. but i swaped in a b seris motor, not just the same motor. and it was my first honda swap. i didnt have a manuel. but the haynes repair manuel is the best one :thumb: so when you start the swap and run into any problems you can come on here and ther will be someone to help :thumb:
By jmoshe
#155220
egsedanguy wrote:well it is easy. all you need is a basic tool set. 6mm,8mm.10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm and a axel socket. braker bar, jack, and thats about it.. like i said it was also my first swap when i did mine.. jack up the front, remove front wheels and remove axel nut, and lower ball joint. then slip the axels out. next diss connect all wires from motor, and radiator hose, power steering line and fuel line, be sure not to lose the 2 copper washers from the fuel line, also just pull the radiator out to guve more room. next you need to unbolt the header from the exaust then disconect the shift linkage. once you have done this you will have 2 staibleizer mounts in the front, the mount on the pass side, driver side and on the fire wall. and blam it will be out.. you can take the motor out from the bottom if you dont have a engine hoist, just have to get the front up as high as possible. just use a jack to help lower the motor down and slid it out. then repeat backward to install. :thumb: if you and atleast 1 more person do this you will have it swaped in a few hours. trust me its cake. i hardly even got my hands dirty doing mine. but i swaped in a b seris motor, not just the same motor. and it was my first honda swap. i didnt have a manuel. but the haynes repair manuel is the best one :thumb: so when you start the swap and run into any problems you can come on here and ther will be someone to help :thumb:

Wooooo.. you're a champ... Thanks so much .. you make it sound soooo easy.. Now my question is.... what is a better motor to put in or should I order the same one... I looked all over for the type of engine but nowhere it tells me whether it is a b or d series... or does it really matter??? what would you recommend?
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By chnzgoofball
#155287 its most likely the o ring for cylinder 1 on the valve cover gasket just get the valve cover gasket set and change that and youll be fine
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By egsedanguy
#155665 well if its a stock 92 lx you have a d15. my car is a 93 lx. if your looking to just swap in the stock motor then your not gaining anything. but it will be the cheapest rout. but if you would like to have some more power, with only a lil more out of pocket, but goes in just as easy as the stock motor, get a b18b1 from a 95-98 integra... you will not be mad when its in.. trust me.. plus you will have tons more upgrades for the b18. like we said, go online and buy the full swap. then you will have everything you need. otherwise check that o ring. just pull off the valve cover and you will see 4 rubber rings were the sparkplugs are. run to autozone or what ever you perfer and pick up a set of new ones. should only run you like 5 buck :thumb: