General engine questions/issues that aren't specific to the other categories
User avatar
By hatchin06
#51766 would i have to get anything to else if i just bought one?
User avatar
By SOHCivegra
#51768 I would reccommend your entire valve train. even with only 69,000 miles on her i would play it safe. also replace your timing belt.

honestly if you did decide to do this (remember not to much of a gain for the price) you could also help by having and ACG (adjustable cam gear).

truly you are looking at a non-cheap upgrade. if you do it by the book, this will get a little bit pricey. if by the book your looking at -

Cam
Valve Springs
Retainers
Timing Belt
Tensioner

and i'm sure i missed something, but if you take some time to check out your engine compared to others. you might find out that the numbers just arent worth the financial loss.

this may also help, what about keep driving this engine. while in the background building a mini or z6 or DOHC.
User avatar
By crazicaveman
#51830 do the mini me swap it will help alot more then just a cam, then once you have a mini me boost it and call it a day :)
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By SOHCivegra
#51855 ^^^^^^^^^^^^ agreed
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By suspendedHatch
#51884
id3379 wrote:
hatchin06 wrote:ya people here arent to fond of it? they like yelling and flicking me off when i do it lol. it seems like there is a power increase when they are off. is there?



well some people say it does and it doesn't, naturally i would think there is since there is no pipe's restricting the air flow and it goes straight out, otheres claim since there is no piping that there is no back pressure or something like that, but i feel a little more power when i run them open.


Engines don't run on logic. Engines aren't made by philosophers. They're made by engineers. You can never make logical assumptions about an engine. Every thing has to be tested and worked out mathematically.

Running open header decreases your power. The sound has a psychological effect making you think you've made more power.

It also burns your valves because the primaries are supposed to carry heat away from the head.

Any time anyone uses the word "back pressure", you can be certain that they have no idea what they are talking about. Back pressure is ALWAYS a bad thing.

If all a header did was eliminate back pressure, you would only see a very minimal gain in hp. Yet there is a big difference in power between a cheap header and an expensive header. And even a cheap header gives you more power than running open header. So what is it that one header does better than another? Get the air out easier? No. Back pressure can be measured with a gauge. Any exhaust will give you almost no measurable back pressure.

The first thing to understand is that exhaust does not come out in a constant stream. Each cylinder has it's own combustion event and releases an exhaust pulse. Each cylinder shoots out these exhaust pulses and they travel down the exhaust primaries and come together in the collector, where the primaries are joined. Some headers join all four into one, some join them into two, then join the pairs into one. In your stock exhaust manifold all the pulses simply crash into each other.

Behind each pulse is a vacuum.

The secret to header tuning is to time these pulses so that one pulse arrives in the collector right behind another, so that the vacuum from one pulse pulls on the next. This suction pulls exhaust out of the combustion chamber, and in turn pulls intake air in to replace it; rather than having the intake air push it's way in.

You see, there is a short period of time called "overlap" when both the intake valve and the exhaust valve are partially open. Engine designers did this on purpose to make use of scavenging, which is what I described by having the vacuum behind the exhaust pulse pull air into the combustion chamber.

More air in the combustion chamber allows you to burn more fuel releasing more power.

Back pressure can never be good because back pressure resists exhaust flow. So again, the intake air has to "push" it's way into the combustion chamber.

An engineer might take issue with some of the terms I've used but the concepts are all completely true.
User avatar
By suspendedHatch
#51886 Here's another example of exhaust tuning vs the back pressure concept. On our engines, a 2.25 inside diameter exhaust makes more power in the usable range (below redline) than a 3 inch inside diameter exhaust, even though a 3 inch exhaust has a very small advantage in less back pressure.

The best example is the water hose. Open the valve and pinch the end of the water hose. The water flows out faster. Compare that to the same amount of water flowing out of a large drainage pipe during the dry season.

At some point, pinching the water too hard slows it down again. So testing and calculation are required to find the diameter that is small enough that it increases the speed of the fluid passing through it, but not so small that it hinders the flow. Not only that, but your engine shoots out less exhaust at a lower RPM than at a higher RPM. So testing is needed to find the diameter of piping that is optimal for the part of the RPM range that you use the most.

The same concept can be applied to the intake pipe. Bigger is not better.

All of this is only valid on a non-turbocharged engine.
User avatar
By id3379
#51898
suspendedHatch wrote:
id3379 wrote:
hatchin06 wrote:ya people here arent to fond of it? they like yelling and flicking me off when i do it lol. it seems like there is a power increase when they are off. is there?



well some people say it does and it doesn't, naturally i would think there is since there is no pipe's restricting the air flow and it goes straight out, otheres claim since there is no piping that there is no back pressure or something like that, but i feel a little more power when i run them open.


Engines don't run on logic. Engines aren't made by philosophers. They're made by engineers. You can never make logical assumptions about an engine. Every thing has to be tested and worked out mathematically.

Running open header decreases your power. The sound has a psychological effect making you think you've made more power.

It also burns your valves because the primaries are supposed to carry heat away from the head.

Any time anyone uses the word "back pressure", you can be certain that they have no idea what they are talking about. Back pressure is ALWAYS a bad thing.

If all a header did was eliminate back pressure, you would only see a very minimal gain in hp. Yet there is a big difference in power between a cheap header and an expensive header. And even a cheap header gives you more power than running open header. So what is it that one header does better than another? Get the air out easier? No. Back pressure can be measured with a gauge. Any exhaust will give you almost no measurable back pressure.

The first thing to understand is that exhaust does not come out in a constant stream. Each cylinder has it's own combustion event and releases an exhaust pulse. Each cylinder shoots out these exhaust pulses and they travel down the exhaust primaries and come together in the collector, where the primaries are joined. Some headers join all four into one, some join them into two, then join the pairs into one. In your stock exhaust manifold all the pulses simply crash into each other.

Behind each pulse is a vacuum.

The secret to header tuning is to time these pulses so that one pulse arrives in the collector right behind another, so that the vacuum from one pulse pulls on the next. This suction pulls exhaust out of the combustion chamber, and in turn pulls intake air in to replace it; rather than having the intake air push it's way in.

You see, there is a short period of time called "overlap" when both the intake valve and the exhaust valve are partially open. Engine designers did this on purpose to make use of scavenging, which is what I described by having the vacuum behind the exhaust pulse pull air into the combustion chamber.

More air in the combustion chamber allows you to burn more fuel releasing more power.

Back pressure can never be good because back pressure resists exhaust flow. So again, the intake air has to "push" it's way into the combustion chamber.

An engineer might take issue with some of the terms I've used but the concepts are all completely true.


man, that was a mouth full and a half, when i ran open headers i just disconnected the the headers at the end from my piping, not straight off the head, but wow thank i learn alot from that :thumb:
User avatar
By OmarG
#52350 SuspendedHatch



He knows Hondas.
User avatar
By suspendedHatch
#52384 Don't sweat it. I type fast.

Your avatar creeps me out.

I heard someone put a D16A6 cam into a D15B7 with some good results. I'll leave it to you to chase down that lead.

VTEC is great for a dual purpose street/weekend race car. But for all out power non-VTEC is actually the way to go.
User avatar
By OmarG
#52415
suspendedHatch wrote:
Your avatar creeps me out.




Image