- Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:29 pm
#63098
so heres i took all of my ground out and got some new one to put on. so i put a ground wire on to the alternator and started the car up and touched the wire was hot so i took it off and ground it on the starter and started it again n still hot ??? waht could be wrong?
- Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:31 pm
#63101
Its meant to get hot...
- Sun Jul 27, 2008 1:13 am
#63467
??
If the wire gets hot then it's not thick enough. I recommend 8 gauge for the alternator.
Wait, you removed ALL your grounds? You'll need to replace each and every one.
Graham wrote:Its meant to get hot...
??
If the wire gets hot then it's not thick enough. I recommend 8 gauge for the alternator.
Wait, you removed ALL your grounds? You'll need to replace each and every one.
- Mon Jul 28, 2008 5:49 am
#63581
Did you remove the exhaust manifold heat shield?
Do you still have your tranny ground?
Did you replace/repaint your core support?
Is that factory ground badly corroded?
The optimal ground setup would be to replace the battery's puny 10mm ground at the strut tower with a longer bolt and with the paint taken down to the sheet metal using a wire brush attachment on a drill. Replace the battery ground with a 4 gauge wire. From your new bolt on the strut tower run 8 gauge grounds to the thermostat housing, starter, tranny ground (which you can replace with a 4 gauge to the frame rail), distributor mounting bolt, block, intake manifold, and head. There are multiple grounds at the passenger side headlight. I like to run a 10 gauge from there to the tranny ground.
I like to run a 4 gauge wire from the battery positive to the starter, replacing the factory wire (an eight gauge going to the fuse box if I remember correctly). And then replace the other 8 gauge fuse box alternator wire with an 8 gauge.
I like to use decent brand amp wire and ring terminals. You'll need a 8 gauge crimper and a table vice for the larger 4 gauge terminals (or a $250 0 gauge crimping tool).
All this and you get quicker start up, sometimes a smoother idle, slightly brighter headlights, and a barely perceptible increase in throttle response.
Do you still have your tranny ground?
Did you replace/repaint your core support?
Is that factory ground badly corroded?
The optimal ground setup would be to replace the battery's puny 10mm ground at the strut tower with a longer bolt and with the paint taken down to the sheet metal using a wire brush attachment on a drill. Replace the battery ground with a 4 gauge wire. From your new bolt on the strut tower run 8 gauge grounds to the thermostat housing, starter, tranny ground (which you can replace with a 4 gauge to the frame rail), distributor mounting bolt, block, intake manifold, and head. There are multiple grounds at the passenger side headlight. I like to run a 10 gauge from there to the tranny ground.
I like to run a 4 gauge wire from the battery positive to the starter, replacing the factory wire (an eight gauge going to the fuse box if I remember correctly). And then replace the other 8 gauge fuse box alternator wire with an 8 gauge.
I like to use decent brand amp wire and ring terminals. You'll need a 8 gauge crimper and a table vice for the larger 4 gauge terminals (or a $250 0 gauge crimping tool).
All this and you get quicker start up, sometimes a smoother idle, slightly brighter headlights, and a barely perceptible increase in throttle response.