- Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:26 am
#330931
i know its rediculous but heck im superstitious, i believe in damn good engineering, like i said im not doing drag racing, i just want a shit load of power in my k20a and keep it that way, all type r, well the block and head now... lol
i thought i had installed 12.5:1 compression pistons, but i realized it was in a k24a4 build i did for a guy the same time i was doing mine, i found my receipts from my build..
heres the list
weisco 12.1:1 compression pistons .20 over bore with rings and snap ring wrist pins not the snap in place rings that ruin cylinder walls
eagle h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts
acl gold race bearings main and rod
brian crower stage 2 cam shafts
brian crower dual valve springs for stage 2 camshafts
brian crower titanium retainers
rbc intake manfiold ported to 70mm for sk2 throttle body
lightly decked head
oem head gasket, cometic and hks suck balls in my opinion
i got a dyno tune done and came up with 255hp all motor cant read what the paper says for torque but hell 255hp all motor is bawm!
the trick is oil flow, i learned this years ago... when trying to rev up my ls vtecs and make power reliably while lasting longer than 30k miles ha!
making sure your machinest knows you is the most important thing in building any honda engine.
my oil galleys are slightly ported the best we could do...
i smooth out the heads so there isnt any type of oil catching on sharp edges, smooth flow in smooth flow back into the oil pan..
im going to be building my own oil sump system for maximum oil pressure and flow all the time, i ride my engine in the 4-6k rpm range all the time i love having instant power and throttle response.
call me crazy but i get results
aslo, plastiguaguing is the smartest thing you can do, even though i have my mahcinest make them all the same size i still have to make sure everything is the right size , again oil flow to the bearings and no binding in the rods or crank
the other thing is to clay your engine when you get cams, as well as adjusting the compression with low compression pistions you dont really need to do this step as the piston wont touch the valves anyway
making sure your cams are synced together is the best thing you can ever do, a tuner can adjust it only so much, why not have them set already in the best spots.. minimal overlapping, with bigger camshafts
they are not acually bigger in terms of size, but length... let me explain
the lobs are longer
duration? what does this mean? duration is time, lenght measurement of distance and time
a camshaft with bigger duration numbers over your stock cams means the valve is left open just a little bit longer, we cant measure this with seconds in time because it is too quick, instead we measure in lenght, if your stock cam is doing .300" duration and your aftermarket cam is doing .315" duration your valve is going to be open by .015" longer
this is why its important to clay your engine to make sure the camshafts you have and the valves you have do not hit and your piston position is eccentricly aligned, aka "THE SWEET SPOT"
hopefully i havent lost any of you reading this
instead of arguing with me just ask me a question and we can go back and forth this way
this is educational posting
"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer