Little K series info ask questions too

K20 & K24
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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:44 am #324520 4k, shipped, replaced some sh** and good to go

since then ive added a lot

brian crower stage 2 camshafts
brain crower dual valve springs
brain crower titanium retianers
ferrea flat face valves


eagle h beam rods
cp 12.0:1 pistons
acl gold bearings

arp headstuds

rbc intake manifold
rbc port matched to 70mm
junk 2 70mm tb

comp clutch stage 1.5 street disc

tranny
rebuilt just in case with syncrotech carbon syncros

soon to be added : supercharger


bought it with 45k miles converted the kilometers to miles

have put on 5000 miles

waiting for a supercharger

its all ill ever need in my little eg coupe

I like the type-r engines, love the way the rev up, the way the head flows, best flowing head of all the k series engines according to a lot of companys and people

endyn, 4 piston, blueprint.... I can go on and on but why waste the time


I have a lot invested in making my type r the best type r out there

I purchased the type r to say I have a type r, I could have gone with a a2, but everyone has a k20a2, k24a2, and so on, not many people willing to go the lengths I did with my k20 type r.

money isn't really an issue with the career I have
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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:51 am #324521 I have been searching high and low for the perfect eg hatch, all black original interior, gsr black leathers front and rear.

hopefully one with and original engine.... lol

they are all over but waiting for the right one to stuff my k20a into.

a new direction Im going.

I have a spare k20a3 im gonna convert to full on a2 status, ive got an amazing machinist who can drill anything anywere in a block. so adding the oil squirters should not be a huge deal.. since the oil galleys are in the same spot realitivly

done it on a lot of serious all motor builds on b20/vtec, and ls/vtec ive done for people over the years.

the squirters are realitivly inexpensive and the machining is cheap for me, I build a lot of the Hondas he machines.

ive got an engineering degree I use all the time with Honda performance

however I use it for hobby not a career. lol

I can post some pictures of the process if I can find them have a lot of external hdd laying around we use.
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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:04 am #324524 oh and another thing

a lot of people say that using forged internals replaces the use of the oil squirters, this is true but false

peace of mind... longevity... cylinder wear... expansion / contraction rates....

well first of all oil squirters in Honda blocks are ment to cool the lower casting of the piston and rod, as well as lubricate the crank shaft..

so the cylinder walls are coated with oil constantly moving through the engine why wouldn't you use them with forged internals

keeping combustion temps down is a primary goal of any good engine builder with metallurgy knowledge.

expansion / contraction rates kill engines, were I live we have all 4 seasons, hot, cold, rain, snow. ya all of that shiz, its important to keep everything as cool as possible to some extent,

LETS TAKE A LOOK AT THE PICTURES

Image


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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:09 am #324526 you would have to run a k20a2 oil pump, or get the s2k to k pump form ERL

the downfall to purchasing a cheap ass k20 such as the k24a1, k20a3 is the water galleys suck...

tiny minimal flow

I have 5 cars (1 including mine) that ive put together that don't even run a radiator fan, weve pulled them out, they never kick on, the engines never get hot, the water ports are huge in a k20a2 and k20a, k24a2...

the only k engine I would stay away from 100% is the k23, its belhousing is different from other k's, as it uses an awd auto trans...
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By {ikon}EM1
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:42 am #324538
kylenjdm93 wrote:the only k engine I would stay away from 100% is the k23, its belhousing is different from other k's, as it uses an awd auto trans...


Is that harder to install in a civic??? K23 awd civic sounds nice... and i believe its turbo too 8)
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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:57 am #324541 it is awd and turbo, however, the bell housing and transmission placement make it near impossible to place it in another chasis

like I said above "near impossible"

ive seeng 4g63 swaps installed and sr20 swaps installed in our little eg civics, even the 4g63 awd platforms

but the amount of weight attributed to the install would be ridiculous and your better off installing the proper rim/tire size and weight to compensate for traction

there are also other cons of this swap like the transmission is triptonic, not a simple auto trans. lots and lots of wiring ahead in your future if you do something this awesome.
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By {ikon}EM1
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:18 pm #324550 Ive always wondered about that swap and now i know... what other trans would be swapable to that motor???
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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:28 pm #324571 The position the engine sits in the rdx you would need some custom mounts that are not on the market yet, making this swap workable would cost more than purchasing a type r swap, sleevig that k, adding a turbo, forged internals and kpro plus all the other crap needed to turbo lol.

It's a good idea but super expensive, and not able to fit in a eg, dc, ef chasis perhaps a ek cause of the huge core support area?? Not sure
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By kylenjdm93
- Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:32 pm #324572 If you could find a local junk yard with a rdx with engine pulled and trans pulled with it you could see the mount positions and go from there.

Also you have a 50/50 chance of this working.... Buy a wrecked rdx and start pulling parts while meticulously labeling the shit
Then install it into ya eg, dc, ek what evs
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By Apexracing
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:17 am #324609 so you paid 4k for just the motor or did you get the trans too?
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By kylenjdm93
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:32 am #324615 whole k20a type r swap. even the shift cables came with it too. :thumb:

I know the guys at jdmenginedepot pretty well, got a sweet deal on it. could not refuse since they were selling for 6k at the time 4 years ago. :thumb:
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By Apexracing
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:06 pm #324639
kylenjdm93 wrote:whole k20a type r swap. even the shift cables came with it too. :thumb:

I know the guys at jdmenginedepot pretty well, got a sweet deal on it. could not refuse since they were selling for 6k at the time 4 years ago. :thumb:



Now thats better :thumb: people on ebay are trying to get that much for the motor. Fuck that lol.
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By kylenjdm93
- Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:26 am #330931 i know its rediculous but heck im superstitious, i believe in damn good engineering, like i said im not doing drag racing, i just want a shit load of power in my k20a and keep it that way, all type r, well the block and head now... lol

i thought i had installed 12.5:1 compression pistons, but i realized it was in a k24a4 build i did for a guy the same time i was doing mine, i found my receipts from my build..

heres the list

weisco 12.1:1 compression pistons .20 over bore with rings and snap ring wrist pins not the snap in place rings that ruin cylinder walls
eagle h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts
acl gold race bearings main and rod
brian crower stage 2 cam shafts
brian crower dual valve springs for stage 2 camshafts
brian crower titanium retainers
rbc intake manfiold ported to 70mm for sk2 throttle body
lightly decked head
oem head gasket, cometic and hks suck balls in my opinion

i got a dyno tune done and came up with 255hp all motor cant read what the paper says for torque but hell 255hp all motor is bawm!

the trick is oil flow, i learned this years ago... when trying to rev up my ls vtecs and make power reliably while lasting longer than 30k miles ha!

making sure your machinest knows you is the most important thing in building any honda engine.

my oil galleys are slightly ported the best we could do...

i smooth out the heads so there isnt any type of oil catching on sharp edges, smooth flow in smooth flow back into the oil pan..

im going to be building my own oil sump system for maximum oil pressure and flow all the time, i ride my engine in the 4-6k rpm range all the time i love having instant power and throttle response.

call me crazy but i get results

aslo, plastiguaguing is the smartest thing you can do, even though i have my mahcinest make them all the same size i still have to make sure everything is the right size , again oil flow to the bearings and no binding in the rods or crank

the other thing is to clay your engine when you get cams, as well as adjusting the compression with low compression pistions you dont really need to do this step as the piston wont touch the valves anyway

making sure your cams are synced together is the best thing you can ever do, a tuner can adjust it only so much, why not have them set already in the best spots.. minimal overlapping, with bigger camshafts

they are not acually bigger in terms of size, but length... let me explain

the lobs are longer

duration? what does this mean? duration is time, lenght measurement of distance and time

a camshaft with bigger duration numbers over your stock cams means the valve is left open just a little bit longer, we cant measure this with seconds in time because it is too quick, instead we measure in lenght, if your stock cam is doing .300" duration and your aftermarket cam is doing .315" duration your valve is going to be open by .015" longer

this is why its important to clay your engine to make sure the camshafts you have and the valves you have do not hit and your piston position is eccentricly aligned, aka "THE SWEET SPOT"

hopefully i havent lost any of you reading this

instead of arguing with me just ask me a question and we can go back and forth this way

this is educational posting

By Gunni
- Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:34 am #335451 Got some q's..

First i bougt an Accord with the "crappy" k24a4 you talk about for dirt cheap, and as always you get what you pay for.
Image

Seller claims it runs and all ok but when i tryed (few weks later),nothing .found out why.
Image
:thumb:

So... Can i put a ecu from k20 crv and imobiliser and that stuff just to crank it an see if it runs or not ?
Can i use the ecu from the k20 crv and hondata unit to run it later or do i need the k24 ecu for that

Im not aming for no hp mostly the swap build, but nobody seems to like the a4 for some reson so is this totaly pointless and waste of time or???

P.s i can sell the car to a local junker so there are no bucks lost for now
:thumb: :thumb:
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By kylenjdm93
- Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:09 pm #335478
Gunni wrote:Got some q's..

First i bougt an Accord with the "crappy" k24a4 you talk about for dirt cheap, and as always you get what you pay for.

Seller claims it runs and all ok but when i tryed (few weks later),nothing .found out why.

:thumb:

So... Can i put a ecu from k20 crv and imobiliser and that stuff just to crank it an see if it runs or not ?
Can i use the ecu from the k20 crv and hondata unit to run it later or do i need the k24 ecu for that

Im not aming for no hp mostly the swap build, but nobody seems to like the a4 for some reson so is this totaly pointless and waste of time or???

P.s i can sell the car to a local junker so there are no bucks lost for now
:thumb: :thumb:



the crv is a 2.4 not a 2.0, it depends is the crv the ecu from drive by wire like the accord you got? if not swap out the throttle bodys and crank her up, you will get a cel code for some things but as long as it starts up don't worry too much until you get a kpro or the oem ecu for the engine.

the k24a1 and k24a4 are good engines don't get me wrong, its the "LS" version of the k world, watered down bla bla bla

the thing I don't like about them is for 500-1000 more you can usually get a k24a2 or k20a2, the conversion process is not cheap, and you are still stuck with inferior pistons at the end of the day :thumb:
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