Stealth Car Alarm Install

1994-1997 Honda Accord

Wire Colors/Locations

Alarm Location (Center Console)

A preview showing what the alarm will look like installed in this location.

Hood Pin and Siren

Use a female spade connector to connect to the hood pin. Loom the wire and secure it to OEM wire harnesses to run it to where the siren wires will penetrate the firewall.

Antenna

Clean the glass surface with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Peel the tape and warm it for a couple seconds with a heat gun; just enough that it begins to look sweaty. Press it down to the glass hard.

Leave a couple inches slack in the antenna wire right at the antenna. You don't want tension on this plug. For the best range, run the wire up high and uncoiled as much as possible.

To remove the A pillar, pry right at the pop mounts to avoid breaking them or creasing the panel.

Removing the Center Console

The cup holders pop out by hand, revealing three hidden screws. There are screws on the outside of the console that are difficult to get to with the seats in the way.

Connections to the Car

Parking lights, Starter, Constant 12v and ground can all be connected under the center console.

Parking Lights

Door Trigger / Domelight, Trunk Trigger

These wires can be found in the gray plugs beside the steering column. Test them for continuity to ground when the door or trunk is opened.

Power Door Locks

Power door lock wires can be found in the driver's kick. Just two wires direct to the alarm to control all doors. Verify them by very breifly grounding each.

If the car came with manual locks, you'll have to add (preferably OEM) actuators. You can add OEM actuators just like aftermarket actuators: two wires each. You'll need two Automotive SPDT relays or a 451m. You don't need an OEM Doorlock Module, power door panels, or door switches. Just leave it all up to the keyfob.

Manual lock Accords are uncommon. If you need further info on that, please visit the other applicaton pages.

These door lock wires had been cut and butt connected in a previous alarm install. With the wires this short and difficult to access, I checked the connections and determined that they were ugly, but secure. I reused and hid the wiring so as not to leave breadcrumbs back to the alarm.

Ignition 12v

The under-dash fusebox has option outputs, but I didn't utilize them for this install. Instead I went to the heavy gauge harness for Ignition 12v (BLK/YEL).

Start Kill

Starter Wire

Cut the excess ORN and YEL wires from the alarm to the start kill relay.

Soldering 10awg wires can be difficult and sloppy for beginners. I recommend non-insulated 10 gauge butt connectors and heat shrink. The end result is less bulky and much easier to achieve.

This hole had to be widened to fit the OEM bolt. This is a clear case of Do-what-I-SAY-not-what-I-do. If you go too fast or have too high of a torque setting on the drill, it's likely to rip the relay right out of your hand and hurt you. Instead push this down against a piece of wood and drill into it, or use a table vice. GO SLOW.

Kill Switch

The hole was drilled with a wood spade bit as you wont find many hole saws this small.

Clearance here is very tight but you can't beat this perfect hiding spot!

The kill switch was put inline on the Main Relay BLK ground wire.

Glass Break Sensor

This is how I decided to mount the audio sensor because I wanted to test different sensitivity adjustments. It really isn't necessary to have the mic out in the open like this.

When the alarm has power and ground, the LED on the sensor will provide feedback to the particular frequency it's looking for. Close the car up and rap a bundle of keys on the glass. A couple of hard taps should trigger the alarm warning. Turn the knob as needed. When you feel it's right, back it off just a few degrees. This will give you the most effective response without triggering false alarms.

Trunk Pop (optional)

The 2nd most enjoyable alarm feature to add after Keyless Entry is Trunk Pop. Holding down the Aux button for a couple seconds while carrying grocery bags is lot nicer than putting one down and turning a key in the trunk.

They're a little tricky to install, but as long as you put loctite on the little clamp screws, they hold up indefinitely. Cheaply made actuators break down every 5 years, but it's not too much trouble to replace them with better quality once you've learned your lesson.

Tuck away and secure your wiring with the factory wires.

You'll need to get another Automotive SPDT relay to change the alarm's mA (-) output to a couple Amps Constant 12v. If you get just the relay without a harness, it's simple to make your own wire connections.

Wow, two examples on the same page of what not-to-do! Once again I had to enlarge this hole so that a factory bolt could go through.

Testing the Alarm

Before reassembling the interior, test the alarm. Close the doors and trunk and arm the alarm. Make sure both doors lock when armed, unlock when disarmed. Also make sure the parking lights and LED flash. Unlock the door with the key and make sure it triggers the alarm, then test the other door, hood and trunk. Make sure the car wont start when the alarm is going off, but will start when it's disarmed. Try putting the alarm in valet mode and taking it out (turn the key on but the engine off and tap the valet button).