- Mon Aug 03, 2009 3:38 pm
#135131
This is an overview. Carefully read the instructions that are included with your fuel pump. It's also important to disconnect the battery. Any spark around an open gas tank & fumes inside your car =
After disconnecting the battery, remove the lower part of the rear seat to get to the access cover.
remove the 4 phillips screws holding the cover on.
Disconnect the wiring harnesses.
Remove the clamp on the return fuel line.
Remove the banjo bolt from the fuel line. Notice the order goes Washer - Banjo Bolt - Washer. Don't lose the bottom washer.
After you loosened the banjo bolt, loosen the 6 outer bolts in a criss cross pattern. These hold the top on to the tank. One of mine was really rusty so I had to use a slightly smaller socket and tap it on with a hammer.
Have some towels handy when you pull the pump out.
Old pump is on the left, Walbro 255 LPH and install kit is on the right.
You reuse some of the oem parts for the install.
This clip is a double clip. You need to remove the green one first to remove the black one.
I unscrewed the ground screw and it broke off. I wanted to move it out of the way but it turns out it would have been fine if I left it alone. So don't do what I did!
I removed the green clip with a small flat head, then the black plug.
Pull the rubber insulator out of the bottom clip. It's a tight fit.
The only thing left is the rubber hose.
I removed the clamp with pliers and the pump is now separate from the assembly.
The rubber isolator is reused on the new installation. With a pair of needle nose pliers, I removed the metal lock thingy?
Stick the new isolator on the new pickup bag thingy.
And that will go on the new pump just like it was on the old pump. There's a new lock in the install kit.
It went on easy with a small socket, applying even pressure to all sides.
Measure twice and cut the new fuel hose once.
Put the clamps on loosely.
Put the pump on. Get it snug in the insulator and tighten the clamps.
Plug in the harness & clip
All done!
Now get back to the car and install it in the reverse order that you removed the stock one.
One thing I had to change was the position of the screw on the clamp to make the pump go in. I rotated the clamp on the hose 180° and it went in the tank fine.
Once everything is back together, connect the battery and turn your key in the accessory position a few times to get pressure back in your line and you should hear the pump whine. The 255 LPH actually makes more of a growl compared to the stock pump whine
If you are observant, you may have noticed that my new pump is upside down with the plug on the bottom and hose on top. I believe I was shipped an EF pump, but with an EG install kit. I found a way to make it work, it was just a little tighter fitting the hose and harness. An EG pump should have been exactly the same.
After disconnecting the battery, remove the lower part of the rear seat to get to the access cover.
remove the 4 phillips screws holding the cover on.
Disconnect the wiring harnesses.
Remove the clamp on the return fuel line.
Remove the banjo bolt from the fuel line. Notice the order goes Washer - Banjo Bolt - Washer. Don't lose the bottom washer.
After you loosened the banjo bolt, loosen the 6 outer bolts in a criss cross pattern. These hold the top on to the tank. One of mine was really rusty so I had to use a slightly smaller socket and tap it on with a hammer.
Have some towels handy when you pull the pump out.
Old pump is on the left, Walbro 255 LPH and install kit is on the right.
You reuse some of the oem parts for the install.
This clip is a double clip. You need to remove the green one first to remove the black one.
I unscrewed the ground screw and it broke off. I wanted to move it out of the way but it turns out it would have been fine if I left it alone. So don't do what I did!
I removed the green clip with a small flat head, then the black plug.
Pull the rubber insulator out of the bottom clip. It's a tight fit.
The only thing left is the rubber hose.
I removed the clamp with pliers and the pump is now separate from the assembly.
The rubber isolator is reused on the new installation. With a pair of needle nose pliers, I removed the metal lock thingy?
Stick the new isolator on the new pickup bag thingy.
And that will go on the new pump just like it was on the old pump. There's a new lock in the install kit.
It went on easy with a small socket, applying even pressure to all sides.
Measure twice and cut the new fuel hose once.
Put the clamps on loosely.
Put the pump on. Get it snug in the insulator and tighten the clamps.
Plug in the harness & clip
All done!
Now get back to the car and install it in the reverse order that you removed the stock one.
One thing I had to change was the position of the screw on the clamp to make the pump go in. I rotated the clamp on the hose 180° and it went in the tank fine.
Once everything is back together, connect the battery and turn your key in the accessory position a few times to get pressure back in your line and you should hear the pump whine. The 255 LPH actually makes more of a growl compared to the stock pump whine
If you are observant, you may have noticed that my new pump is upside down with the plug on the bottom and hose on top. I believe I was shipped an EF pump, but with an EG install kit. I found a way to make it work, it was just a little tighter fitting the hose and harness. An EG pump should have been exactly the same.
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage