Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:23 am #331137 Alright guys well the first deal I had fell through, the guy was talking about selling me the motor and then he just stopped replying. Good thing I decided not to drive up there.

Now I had a back up, this guy seems way more legit.

My plan was to buy a few parts for this motor before swapping it in. Aftermarket fuel pump, injectors, FPR, and FPR guage. I am getting a base map from Phearable.net for the time being. Until I can afford a dyno tune. The motor has 12:1 JE pistons, but stock cams and cam gears. Should I save up enough to drop in Skunk2 cams and adjust. cam gears or is it safe to run the stock B16 cams???

"If you want your car to be cheap and fast it wont be reliable... If you want your car to be reliable and cheap it wont be fast... If you want your car to be fast and reliable it wont be cheap"

- Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:59 pm #331195 Blox > Skunk2. Running stock b16 cams would be fine, an afr gauge would be a little piece of mind esp if your just getting a basemap. I can assure its probably gonna be running lean off the bat which = detonation.

Yeah I have a 4dr, no you can't have a ride.

- Sun May 05, 2013 3:55 am #331340 If you want to make any kind of power then yes, get some cams. If you cant afford to have the engine tuned right away, the right way, then dont do the swap until you can.

Personally, I wouldnt buy a motor like this... sellers can and will lie to you especially if you dont have the knowledge and ability to check their claims. Does the seller know the ring gap and all that stuff from when it was assembled?

The motor will not run well on anything less than 91 regardless of what cams are in it and it will definitely need to be tuned regardless of what cams, or other bolts you throw at it.

Do it once, do it right.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Mon May 06, 2013 6:30 pm #331377

If you want to make any kind of power then yes, get some cams. If you cant afford to have the engine tuned right away, the right way, then dont do the swap until you can.

Personally, I wouldnt buy a motor like this... sellers can and will lie to you especially if you dont have the knowledge and ability to check their claims. Does the seller know the ring gap and all that stuff from when it was assembled?

The motor will not run well on anything less than 91 regardless of what cams are in it and it will definitely need to be tuned regardless of what cams, or other bolts you throw at it.

Do it once, do it right.

Well how could I check to see if the compression is what he says it iswithout taking the head off?

What other questions wwould you ask him, if you were in my position?

We agreed that he would provide me with a Bill of Sale with a guarantee that the motor was built correctly and will start up and drive.

By the way I am test driving the motor before I have him pull it out, he will be doing a compression test and I am going to suggest he does a full leak down test as well..

"If you want your car to be cheap and fast it wont be reliable... If you want your car to be reliable and cheap it wont be fast... If you want your car to be fast and reliable it wont be cheap"

- Fri May 10, 2013 10:18 am #331540

If you want to make any kind of power then yes, get some cams. If you cant afford to have the engine tuned right away, the right way, then dont do the swap until you can.

Personally, I wouldnt buy a motor like this... sellers can and will lie to you especially if you dont have the knowledge and ability to check their claims. Does the seller know the ring gap and all that stuff from when it was assembled?

The motor will not run well on anything less than 91 regardless of what cams are in it and it will definitely need to be tuned regardless of what cams, or other bolts you throw at it.

Do it once, do it right.

Well how could I check to see if the compression is what he says it iswithout taking the head off?

What other questions wwould you ask him, if you were in my position?

We agreed that he would provide me with a Bill of Sale with a guarantee that the motor was built correctly and will start up and drive.

By the way I am test driving the motor before I have him pull it out, he will be doing a compression test and I am going to suggest he does a full leak down test as well..

Well you could always use a compression tester to check the compression. I would also ask who assembled it and why has he decided to give up on it. You can tell alot about a person by there character, in other words if he seems overly nice or somewhat inconsistent/sketchy I'd stay away from it.

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- Mon May 13, 2013 6:58 am #331662 basemap? id recommend getting it tuned straight...minimum with crome

i have a high comp B20 with B18C-R cams that ran on VAFC for awhile... ignition timing was horrendous...and i didnt make much power over stock b20b bottom... 186whp n 20kg torque on the dynojet...with a VERY rough graph...stock bottom i had 185whp and 18.8kg torque

got crome-d and hit 200whp and 22kg torque....with a much smoother graph.

that ignition timing tuning made a lot of difference...and i can rev the engine with more confidence now