B16, B18, B20
User avatar
By Leppy
#330367 Apparently I need a .052 gap NGK R PFR6G-13 spark plug. The ones I kept getting that were "recommended" for my car were regular PFR6G's or were 11's and had a .044 gap.

So ordered new correct plugs and a PCV valve because mine was gunked up and old.
By bks84
#330389 Why didn't you just gap the plugs you bought?
User avatar
By Leppy
#330393
bks84 wrote:Why didn't you just gap the plugs you bought?


Fouled pretty bad and i don't feel like messing with them anymore.
By alansi09
#330400 Got a skunk2 IM and I'm currently running the gsr throttle body bracket and cable and its running perfect after I found a small leak on the TB idles fine now also cleaned out my iacv and cleaned some gunk from the TB itself as well and its idleing fine.
User avatar
By Leppy
#330402
alansi09 wrote:Got a skunk2 IM and I'm currently running the gsr throttle body bracket and cable and its running perfect after I found a small leak on the TB idles fine now also cleaned out my iacv and cleaned some gunk from the TB itself as well and its idleing fine.


I'm running an alpha series 66mm TB with the GSR bracket and cable on mine.
User avatar
By Leppy
#330489 Guess who's ordering a new ECU? THIS GIRL RIGHT HERE! :/

Going for a chipped P28 since I'm running the Skunk2 Mani.

Image
User avatar
By Leppy
#330770 flashed P28 plugged in, Still no start... Getting fuel, getting spark. ECU registers a CEL code 10 when i unplug the IAT sensor, so it's reading something. Unless there's some procedure i'm not doing, I'm stumped. Wondering if it's a bad map, gonna call them tomorrow and see what they say about it.
User avatar
By Leppy
#330773 Could this possibly be a bad ignitor in the dizzy? I get spark, and fuel, but after it spins a while the plugs are covered in fuel. swapping plugs does no difference.

You think maybe it's not getting enough spark signal or something? I'm tired, and thinking out loud here.

Edit: Maybe bad coil? I'll try to swap one from my old dizzy tomorrow and see what that does.
User avatar
By Leppy
#330786 I FIX!

Replaced the dizzy cap and rotor in a last ditch effort to see if it was shorting out from coil to rotor after checking the ICM and replacing the coil with a known good.

It fired up after purging the fuel out from being flooded. Cranks up and drives each time now.

Tonight, it's a celebratory Jack/Coke and I tweak the TPS, idle and fine-tune the timing tomorrow morning.

Also of note: The VTEC crack scared the shit out of me noise-wise and rolling over the 9000 RPM mark with the tuned ECU is orgasmic...
User avatar
By Leppy
#330816 Drove it around today, it's all good! I also discovered that my latest rattle in the exhaust was just chucks of cat internals that were knocked loose. They flew out the back while I was testing this morning and now it doesn't rattle anymore.
User avatar
By suspendedHatch
#330827 That means your cat converter is toast. Dumping a bunch of fuel in it will kill it pretty quickly. You should replace it cuz it's partly bricked up. It could ruin your muffler as well.
User avatar
By Leppy
#330846
suspendedHatch wrote:That means your cat converter is toast. Dumping a bunch of fuel in it will kill it pretty quickly. You should replace it cuz it's partly bricked up. It could ruin your muffler as well.


Yup, I agree. But at the same time, we cut and refitted part of the exhaust a few inches behind the cat in order to line up the header properly and the violent shaking might have knocked a bit loose too. I'm gonna check it out in a few weeks when i can down the car again to rebuild the transmission.

Might just gut it and put it back on, anyone wanna buy the internals? lol
By bks84
#331281 a "tuned" ECU? did you tune it yourself?
User avatar
By Leppy
#331284
bks84 wrote:a "tuned" ECU? did you tune it yourself?


it's more like remapped and tweaked for a 9k redline. it's from Swapshopracing.