B16, B18, B20
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By #ROBIN#
#322731 Hey everyone,

This seems to be a common problem these days, and you have searched the world wide web only to see threads start of by saying could be electrical then all of a sudden in that very same thread someone posting to say no its the tps, then someone will post to say its your throttle body itself. None of them are wrong but it just does not help us who have to have the hassle of our cars dying at the traffic lights when we come to a stop or when our cars warm up.


With the above mentioned here are some of the fixes along with what you have already gathered by googling and checking other forums etc...

The following issues is what i have experienced and its could not solve your issue, but worth a try

possible solution 1: Iacv dirty ( use carb cleaner or brake cleaner) it has two bolts at the back of the intake and some pipes... they can be a witch to get to if you dont have the correct tools. once off theres a screen/mesh spray it with your cleaner and allow to dry for about 5 mins...correctly fit it back and take your car for a spin, this did not work for me so onto the next issue-

possible solution 2: Earthing, there are four earths on our b-series- battery to body; valve cover to body; gearbox to body ,there is one more i think on the alternator, give them a clean and refit them...this did not solve mine so on we go to the next fix-

possible solution 3: This is a simple fix, take out your flat head screwdriver. start your car if your car idles low when in neutral then it could be you need to adjust your idling at the idle control screw, its situated just to the left of the throttle body. clockwise is bring your rpm up and anti is dropping it. Adjust this when your car is warm. Well after doing this my car idled perfectly, the took it for a drive and my rpm still dropped when i came to a STOP (stop being the key word here)...so onto the next step-

possible solution 4: A vacuum leak via your brake booster, if you mechanically minded then you can either recondition your own booster or get a new one, well I did the latter and my issue was still there...only to find out my foundation brakes was bad meaning my discs/rotors were worn down ( my stupidity as I didnt expect it only to last four months due to spirited driving) thus making my pedal go to low and creating more vacuum than normal and this bringing down my rpm when coming to a STOP. I know many of you guys did not think of this as i did not either, as a low idle is to me and many others have no relevance to brakes. Also while you at it check for no other vacuum pipes that are damaged. Moral of this story make sure you have a good brake pedal- weird that I did not know this issue first time as we have a workshop specialising in brake lol, we live and learn.

These were my issues...okay so you have done all the above and still have an issue, clean your throttle body; check your accelerator cable could have some slack; also check your o2 sensor i also replaced mine did not fix my issue but my car felt nippier and my fuel consumption became alot better.

If any of you have more solutions post them up...

Hope your idling issues get sorted, once fixed driving will be a pleasure again. :thumb:


Merry Xmas to all thats celebrating. and a Prosperous 2013 :)
By Delkden
#322775
#ROBIN# wrote:Hey everyone,

This seems to be a common problem these days, and you have searched the world wide web only to see threads start of by saying could be electrical then all of a sudden in that very same thread someone posting to say no its the tps, then someone will post to say its your throttle body itself. None of them are wrong but it just does not help us who have to have the hassle of our cars dying at the traffic lights when we come to a stop or when our cars warm up.


With the above mentioned here are some of the fixes led bulbs along with what you have already gathered by googling and checking other forums etc...

The following issues is what i have experienced and its could not solve your issue, but worth a try

possible solution 1: Iacv dirty ( use carb cleaner or brake cleaner) it has two bolts at the back of the intake and some pipes... they can be a witch to get to if you dont have the correct tools. once off theres a screen/mesh spray it with your cleaner and allow to dry for about 5 mins...correctly fit it back and take your car for a spin, this did not work for me so onto the next issue-

possible solution 2: Earthing, there are four earths on our b-series- battery to body; valve cover to body; gearbox to body ,there is one more i think on the alternator, give them a clean and refit them...this did not solve mine so on we go to the next fix-

possible solution 3: This is a simple fix, take out your flat head screwdriver. start your car if your car idles low when in neutral then it could be you need to adjust your idling at the idle control screw, its situated just to the left of the throttle body. clockwise is bring your rpm up and anti is dropping it. Adjust this when your car is warm. Well after doing this my car idled perfectly, the took it for a drive and my rpm still dropped when i came to a STOP (stop being the key word here)...so onto the next step-

possible solution 4: A vacuum leak via your brake booster, if you mechanically minded then you can either recondition your own booster or get a new one, well I did the latter and my issue was still there...only to find out my foundation brakes was bad meaning my discs/rotors were worn down ( my stupidity as I didnt expect it only to last four months due to spirited driving) thus making my pedal go to low and creating more vacuum than normal and this bringing down my rpm when coming to a STOP. I know many of you guys did not think of this as i did not either, as a low idle is to me and many others have no relevance to brakes. Also while you at it check for no other vacuum pipes that are damaged. Moral of this story make sure you have a good brake pedal- weird that I did not know this issue first time as we have a workshop specialising in brake lol, we live and learn.

These were my issues...okay so you have done all the above and still have an issue, clean your throttle body; check your accelerator cable could have some slack; also check your o2 sensor i also replaced mine did not fix my issue but my car felt nippier and my fuel consumption became alot better.

If any of you have more solutions post them up...

Hope your idling issues get sorted, once fixed driving will be a pleasure again. :thumb:


Merry Xmas to all thats celebrating. and a Prosperous 2013 :)


Yes these are general problems and thanks for sharing solutions.
Merry Christmas :)
Last edited by Delkden on Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By 92dxeg
#322779 could i rad fan not working have something to do wit idle ? like my car will heat almost to hafe way fan wont kick on at all. but when the car seems heat soaked and i stop or throw in nutural idle drops really low like 100 the goes back up too 900 then somtimes it will be perfect at the same temp were the car seems heat soaked and nothing happens
By bks84
#322873 92dxeg - trouble shoot the fan, then go from there.
User avatar
By 92dxeg
#322946 kk i will let u know i tested the plug off the engine harness and no volts :( lol should it get volts
User avatar
By 92dxeg
#325610 ok guys i still have 3 probs involing idle issue/fan any insite would help thanks guys plz help asap if possable if any has had simalair probs

1)...i have put a new thermostat in my car also a fan switch i think it is just to cold in nj right now for my rad fan to kick on...
2)...but anyway when my car warms up when driving i come to a quick stop or if i slip it in to nutraul when driving rpms almost drop to 0-250 mark then it goes up to 700-800 almost right after.
3)... also when i start my car 1st think in the am when its ice cold amd fridged out like 20 or below my car idles from 600-1000 or somtimes lower.. when i leave it idle for 2 min or so it goes up to about 1500 still on cold btw could this prob be linked with prob 2 ?? plz help
User avatar
By #ROBIN#
#325789 number 2 is the same as my issue...how is your cars brakes?

My pads and rotors were done and my brake pedal would go right to the floor. fitted new pads and rotors and checked brake fluid and viola no more revs dropping


Number 3, your car should idle high and gradually come down as your car heats up. Check your iacv clean it out (when you remove it you will see there is a water pipe leading into it, check for any leaks while you at it.

if it drops gradually and comes up when hot then I have no idea whats causing it, thats a weird one. hang in there as there is always someone who had the same problem like you and will be able to help you
User avatar
By 92dxeg
#325799 i have brake fluid,new pads and rotors with about 15k miles on them at most... i have drums in the back lol sad face .. i have never done them u think i should ? and u telling me my idle prob when it drops to 0-250 rpms could be my brakes? cuz it really only happens when my car warms up to about hafe way never ever has it done it b4 that
User avatar
By #ROBIN#
#325893
92dxeg wrote:i have brake fluid,new pads and rotors with about 15k miles on them at most... i have drums in the back lol sad face .. i have never done them u think i should ? and u telling me my idle prob when it drops to 0-250 rpms could be my brakes? cuz it really only happens when my car warms up to about hafe way never ever has it done it b4 that


do your rear brakes...if it works then its a plus if not atleast you have safe brakes. What do you have to lose?

can well be, hey I am not saying it will solve your problem but it did for me. Your brakes work alongside with your engine to create vacuum and this can cause many idling problems and hunting issues.
User avatar
By kylenjdm93
#325900 brakes? really?

I dunno about that, you see your brake booster vacuum line has this little piece called a one way valve that only lets air go one way not the other...

proper way to test the IAC is hook your car up to a decent scan tool and read the "counts" see if its actually actuating if the numbers are barely moving then your at idle if they jump all over then you know you have problems, so before you replace the valve see if you have a check engine light on or not

there is a wax idle valve underneath the throttle body in OBDI engines, not all but 90% of the D, B, H, F series have them

I suggest you take the coolant line going into it from behind the head area to the IAC vlave as that's were its going anyway..

hopefully this works if not.....

CHECK OUT YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET!

you wouldn't believe the money ive made replacing them... espcesially for idle problems

take som ebrake clean and spray it on the intake manifold if your idle levels out and goes up in rpm theres your leak

if the leak is bad enough then it will likely cause the engine to turn off
Last edited by kylenjdm93 on Fri Feb 08, 2013 9:24 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By kylenjdm93
#325902
#ROBIN# wrote:
92dxeg wrote:i have brake fluid,new pads and rotors with about 15k miles on them at most... i have drums in the back lol sad face .. i have never done them u think i should ? and u telling me my idle prob when it drops to 0-250 rpms could be my brakes? cuz it really only happens when my car warms up to about hafe way never ever has it done it b4 that


do your rear brakes...if it works then its a plus if not atleast you have safe brakes. What do you have to lose?

can well be, hey I am not saying it will solve your problem but it did for me. Your brakes work alongside with your engine to create vacuum and this can cause many idling problems and hunting issues.


I MEAN NO DISRESPECT AT ALL! im trying to understand your reasonings...

explain your theory with civics that are boosterless with a willwood system.... your brakes are mechanical, your engine is also but creates its own vacuum under the action of induction, air into the engine exhaust out it sucks air into it by means of a type of suction, valves open, the cylinders now have suction by means of oil lubricating the cylinder walls and piston rings tightly pressed agians the pistons and cylinder walls.

just like a syringe pulling medicine out of a vial...


so again, how can people delete they're break booster and still get appropriate vacuum and be able to brake???

I know 2 people using willwoods setup driving 300 miles to hondatech every year from my home town braking fine along the way


I mean no disrespect by any means but correct information is more useful and learning from an experienced engine builder like myself should be nice

I understand your thinking, you can actually pump your brake pedal with the brake booster vacuum line disconnected, with engine off and pump your pedal and hear some air pumping out of it before the pedal feels really hard. it builds up pressure because it has no were to escape the engine pulling vacuum from the booster allows you to hit the brakes as much as needed for defensive driving and allowing you to stop. the abs system is a beast of its own. it uses solenoids that pulsate pressure of brake fluid not air to each wheel individually to prevent skidding so you don't lock up your brakes, not only does locking up the brakes from 50 to 0 damage your tires it also causes metal to twist in ways its not ment to.

so keep in mind your car working properly by fixing the brakes is very unusual awesome that it worked :D

however as a person working on cars for a living will know that everyday people call I apts to have you check out the car for something unusual, you will come across it not having the problem on your test drive then miraculously it happens to the owner after leaving your place of work :D :lol:
User avatar
By 92dxeg
#325957 my issue is leading me to belive that it would be a issue wit the coolate cuz it only happens when the car gets hafe way on the temp.. b4 i fix my thermo stat my car was almost always cold and never did it till i really let it warm up. and as for that sensor with the wax ball i do not have one cuz i have a obd2 tb .. and i tryed changing my iac and still same prob .. it is a really strange prob i mean its nothing crazy it just bothers meand i want to to be normal.. when i let off the gas and it drops to 0-250 then going rihjt up to 800-900 lmk what u guys think
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By kylenjdm93
#325959 in that case being as the tb is OBDII, I would have to assume that you have a bad reading on a coolant sensor somewere, the ecu actuates the IAC to let the car warm up, but It relies on coolant temperature sensors, you could do an OHM test on the sensors till you find one that is completely out of spec, replace it, clear any codes that may be stored in the ecu and try it out.

you also may have a bad relay causing your fans to run constantly, being that you said your civic always runs cold, not 100% on that, but check it out start it up and see if your fans are constantly blowing, if not you have one hell of a cooling system there.

id try putting a higher temperature thermostat in it so it will have to warm up longer allowing your block to get warmer and thus you will have decent heat coming out of the dash...

let me know how the sensors are post up the ohms and a pic of the one you are testing also

thanks
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By 92dxeg
#325976 i put a better thermo stat in it.. and it heats up fine now AND I GET CRAZY HEAT i mean its like fire out of that dash lmao.. my fine is not kicking on right now its too cold.. and i have a s300 ecu no way to check it out i have no laptop.. were is the coolate temp sensor and what oms should i get ?
By bigpunn421
#326313 check out your fitv if you have one. they cause a bunch of idle problems