few questions for my b20vtec build

B16, B18, B20
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few questions for my b20vtec build

By mrbojangles13
- Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:12 pm #302303 I know this topic has been beat to death, there are 2 stickys on it! But i'd like some feedback on what everyone thought of my build, my plans, and goals. If I am wrong at any point please correct me as I am new to this.

First off I think we should start with the goals.
I want 200ish+ whp. This will be my daily and my job is seasonal, very feast and famin. But in the prime of the busy season I will be putting 1,000 miles on this a week. I also plan to hopefully do some auto x with this setup, mostly for fun. This is also my only car. Bottom line..... Needs to be reliable!

Now for the fun part, the build.

This is what I already have and am running till i piece together all the other parts.
B20B bottom end
b16 top end
chipped p28 (minor tune with chrome pro)
gsr head studs
skunk2 intake mani (pretty red to match my type r valve cover)
68mm tb
aem v2 cai
bpi v stack

I took it to a shop to get the conversion done and they kinda beat me on it. I told them arp studs but they cheaped out and put the gsr (charged me for arp tho), they argued against arp rob bolts blah blah. Oh, plus it was there for 2 months! So this is where I am at now. Lets just say I plan on doing all this work myself with some help from buddies.

What I plan to get, with prices. If I am off on anything or missing let me know!
RS itr replica 84 mm (right size?) pistons says cr will vary from 11.7 to 12 $320
crank case breather $200
ARP studs $150
ARP rob bolts $50

If I go with cams, what else do I need to upgrade? Just the springs?
Are girldes or block guards something I should be looking at?

So what do you guys think, are my goals within reason? Any thing i missed or advice?
thanks guys

By cjw_89
- Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:58 pm #302306 The bolts arent just a direct replacment,they need to be pressed in and them the bore of the rod machined to round. So watch that. You will need oil pressure for vtec too so you need to drill and tap your head and get an oil line adapter. To be safe you want arp rod bolts and head studs. Golden eagle has the oil filter sandwich plate and braided line. Im pretty sure the obd2 oil pump share the same as itr gsr b16 as well. You will need a vtec water pump for sure so your coolant dont cavitate. Dont forget dowel pins :)
Last edited by cjw_89 on Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.

By cjw_89
- Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:01 pm #302307 Depending on lift and duration you will want to upgrade valve springs at minumum. Unless you want valve float. B16 heads and gsr I believe come with dual intake valve springs but not ex springs like the itr. If you get the rod bolts in you should be able to take it to 9 all day long.
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By jred
- Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:18 pm #302334 I looked into the b20/vtec allot since i had one and was going to do another cuz the first one blew cause i didn't do the first one right,
so here's my list of stuff what i was gonna get "at least what i could of remember" before i changed my mind on the project.
some of the stuff i had already bought / done, some reusable for my current project ( a B16a turbo ) and some not "sucks"

B20/vtec conversion kit "oil lines and fittings"
B16a head port and polished - bought
GSR cams, adjustable cam gears, Brian crower valves springs and retainers, titanium valves - bought
ARP head studs, and bolts
B20b block balanced crank - bought
B20/vtec CP pistons 11.5 compression
block guard - bought
B18c girdle, tray, oil pick up , and sump pan. - bought
B16a oil pump, B16a water pump - bought
Hondata S300 EMS - bought
Professional products Intake manifold and trottle body - bought
Apexi filter
4-2-1 headers, 2.25" exhaust piping
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Walbro 255 fuel pump, H22 injectors, inline fuel filter
Valve cover, ported with crank case breather lines to oil catch can - bought
CTR gear box, ACT street and strip clutch kit, lightened fly wheel
Drive shaft shop level 2.9 axles - bought

there was allot more but i cant remember.

By mrbojangles13
- Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:08 pm #302342 Thanks for the responses guys. I already have this as a running b20v so I do have the oil pump (all obd2 are the same) and water pump oil lines ect. I didn't mention as I thought that any b20v setup would have.

I think I am pretty set in what I am going to get, only tossing back and forth with the girdle. Block guard is going in for sure. Just not 100% positive with the girdle. What do you guys think?
I am thinking itr cams as I don't need anything toooo aggressive. What valve train upgrades will I be looking at with the itrs? Springs? Or retainers and the whole gammet?
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By fatcoupe
- Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:43 am #302365 dont forget to pick up a good brand name oil pressure gauge and AFR gauge. when i did my b20v the AFR let me know that i was running 100 psi of fuel...ran awesome but cost me a fuel pump x.x be safe not sorry

By bks84
- Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:23 am #302393
cjw_89 wrote:Depending on lift and duration you will want to upgrade valve springs at minumum. Unless you want valve float. B16 heads and gsr I believe come with dual intake valve springs but not ex springs like the itr. If you get the rod bolts in you should be able to take it to 9 all day long.
OBD0/SIR1 heads had single springs on both intake and exhaust.

mrbojangles13 wrote:Thanks for the responses guys. I already have this as a running b20v so I do have the oil pump (all obd2 are the same) and water pump oil lines ect. I didn't mention as I thought that any b20v setup would have.

I think I am pretty set in what I am going to get, only tossing back and forth with the girdle. Block guard is going in for sure. Just not 100% positive with the girdle. What do you guys think?
I am thinking itr cams as I don't need anything toooo aggressive. What valve train upgrades will I be looking at with the itrs? Springs? Or retainers and the whole gammet?
I feel a block guard and girdle are a waste of money. Ive had 3 B20V's and have never used and have never had issues with a sleeve "moving" or any issues with my main bearings/crank or block flexing, etc. So, IMO they're a waste of cash.

For ITR cams, you want to use, at the very least ITR springs and retainers. There are some people who [claim] to have simply added the inner springs and been fine.

Lastly, I would look into at least an LS or B16 pan, believe it or not a stock B16/LS pan has more baffling than the OE B20.

fatcoupe wrote:dont forget to pick up a good brand name oil pressure gauge and AFR gauge. when i did my b20v the AFR let me know that i was running 100 psi of fuel...ran awesome but cost me a fuel pump x.x be safe not sorry
What? Are you saying your AFR gauge told you that you was running 100 psi of fuel pressure? I think you're mistaken. Thats not what an AFR gauge tells you.
Last edited by bks84 on Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

By bks84
- Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:23 am #302394
cjw_89 wrote:Depending on lift and duration you will want to upgrade valve springs at minumum. Unless you want valve float. B16 heads and gsr I believe come with dual intake valve springs but not ex springs like the itr. If you get the rod bolts in you should be able to take it to 9 all day long.
OBD0/SIR1 heads had single springs on both intake and exhaust.

mrbojangles13 wrote:Thanks for the responses guys. I already have this as a running b20v so I do have the oil pump (all obd2 are the same) and water pump oil lines ect. I didn't mention as I thought that any b20v setup would have.

I think I am pretty set in what I am going to get, only tossing back and forth with the girdle. Block guard is going in for sure. Just not 100% positive with the girdle. What do you guys think?
I am thinking itr cams as I don't need anything toooo aggressive. What valve train upgrades will I be looking at with the itrs? Springs? Or retainers and the whole gammet?
I feel a block guard and girdle are a waste of money. Ive had 3 B20V's and have never used and have never had issues with a sleeve "moving" or any issues with my main bearings/crank or block flexing, etc. So, IMO they're a waste of cash.

For ITR cams, you want to use, at the very least ITR springs and retainers. There are some people who [claim] to have simply added the inner springs and been fine.

fatcoupe wrote:dont forget to pick up a good brand name oil pressure gauge and AFR gauge. when i did my b20v the AFR let me know that i was running 100 psi of fuel...ran awesome but cost me a fuel pump x.x be safe not sorry
What? Are you saying your AFR gauge told you that you was running 100 psi of fuel pressure? I think you're mistaken. Thats not what an AFR gauge tells you.
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