Civic EG

p72 itr pistons will NOT fit inot a b20 block

p72 itr are 81mm, b20's are 84mm. if you wanna use p72 itr pistons, get a b18a or b18b block.

oh allright cool, can I get the b20 stock rods shot peened, or is that for the b18 aswell? I just picked up a mint running b20 and I have a pr3-3 b16 sir head that is fully built with all skunk 2 goodies, so I wanna put it on the b20 and rev it to 9000rpm, I just dont want it blowing up on me so I am trying to do it right, so if you guys have any info on that it would be very usefull to me, I am trying to do this with out a crazy budget, my girl and I are trying to buy a house and get married so funds are tight.

you can get the rods shot peoned,

if your rolling on a budget just reused your stock b20 pistons,

sorry about the questions but I just wanna get this right, I am trying to get a list together of the things I have to do and order,

PARTS I HAVE TO ORDER
1-some sort of high compression 84mm piston set
2-rings
3-thin headgasket to keep compression up
4-arp rod studs(should I get them for the b20 rods?)
5-arp head studs(what motor or head should I get them for?)
6-b16 oil pump
7-timing belt kit(what motor or head should I get it for?)
8-22t water pump(what motor should I get it for?)
9-can I use the b20 stock rods as long as I get them shot peened?
10-can I use the stock bearings that are in the b20 as long as they are ok, or do I have to get new ones?
11-should I get a girdle or just let it go?



THINGS I HAVE TO GET DONE
1-if I can use them, get factory b20 rods shot peened
2-have rods oversized for the arp rod studs
3-have rotating assembly balanced
4-eventually break in motor with straight 30 weight

If there is anything you guys would like to comment on then go right ahead, you will not hurt my feelings, if I left somthing out then please let me know, I just want to have a reliable set up nothing crazy, I will not be driving this car everyday it will be my weekend car so to speak lol.

chrono404 wrote:you can get the rods shot peoned,

if your rolling on a budget just reused your stock b20 pistons,

thanks bro, I am probably gonna go with an aftermarket set to get the comp a little higher. I hate asking all these questions and bugging everybody but I just want it done right.

the honda guy wrote:sorry about the questions but I just wanna get this right, I am trying to get a list together of the things I have to do and order,

PARTS I HAVE TO ORDER
1-some sort of high compression 84mm piston set
2-rings
3-thin headgasket to keep compression up
4-arp rod studs(should I get them for the b20 rods?)
5-arp head studs(what motor or head should I get them for?)
6-b16 oil pump
7-timing belt kit(what motor or head should I get it for?)
8-22t water pump(what motor should I get it for?)
9-can I use the b20 stock rods as long as I get them shot peened?
10-can I use the stock bearings that are in the b20 as long as they are ok, or do I have to get new ones?
11-should I get a girdle or just let it go?



THINGS I HAVE TO GET DONE
1-if I can use them, get factory b20 rods shot peened
2-have rods oversized for the arp rod studs
3-have rotating assembly balanced
4-eventually break in motor with straight 30 weight

If there is anything you guys would like to comment on then go right ahead, you will not hurt my feelings, if I left somthing out then please let me know, I just want to have a reliable set up nothing crazy, I will not be driving this car everyday it will be my weekend car so to speak lol.

the thing is with a b20, the cylinder walls are 33% thinner, so with a high compression setup your margin for error is very slim my friend. i would suggest taking the time and effort into building the bottom end make it as bullet proof as possible. and yes have every thing balanced this will increase your rpm range in conjunction with upgrading your head components. and since this is a hybrid motor i would make sure to replace whatever parts i could afford with new ones just in case, bearings ect.
i have also heard that you need to get the timing belt that goes with the head. good luck bro.

well I guess I am gonna just end up breakin the bank on this one, I will get rods and pistons, hey do you guys think I should get a block guard. and I realy apreciate the info guys thank you very much. usually on other sites some blowjob would be busting my balls. I will be posting a build thread soon, just waitin for my tax return.

RS machine ITR pistons in 84mm would be what you want.

Only company to copy itr pistons in 84mm size.

hey thanks man, I actually found this company (real street performance) on ebay that had a high comp piston and rod combo, so I emailed them asking if they could give me a deal on a package so the guy emailed me back and said this, srp high comp pistons 11.5:1 with the pins and rings, eagle rods with the arp rod bolts, cometic 84mm head gasket, arp head studs, and a golden eagle block guard shipped for 1050, so I went with that, so I will now be building a full motor. I actually am happier I had to go this route so I dont have to worry as much. As I get parts I will post the whole process on here, I allready have pics of my car as I stripped it down to nothing and had it sittin on a body jig, then pics of it at the body shop getting media blasted. So you guys will c it soon.

what head are those pistons said to be 11.5:1 with? GSR or B16a? Because they wont be 11.5:1 with both.

allright I just orderd all the parts I need, here is the list of what I will be doing, and some stuff I allready have.


HEAD
-92 b16 sir head with skunk 2 valves
-s2 stage 2 cams
-s2 dual valve springs
-the head was ported and polished, and the s2 pro s manifold was port matched at head games awhile back for my current ls vtec setup, so I will be using that on the new b20
-I need to figure out what size throtle body I need, so I will list that as soon as I figure it out

BLOCK
srp high comp 11.5:1 pistons with rings and pins
eagle rods with arp rod bolts
arp head studs
cometic 84mm head gasket
golden eagle block guard
type r girdle
gsr oil pan
stock b20 crank will be balanced and knife edged, and the whole rotating assembly will be balanced together for 10,000 rpm, keep your fingers crossed for me fella's lol

FUEL
-apexi vafc ( I have seen plenty of people sucsessfully tune big power cars on a vafc, and I had a 90 awd turbo talon puttin down 411 at all 4 wheels on a afc so I will b ok
-rc engineering 450cc injectors, I will be regulating them down like 20% with the vafc
-stock p28 ecu
-stock b series full rail polished
-hondata heat shield manifold gasket
-aem fuel pressure reg
-walbro 255lph pump, its a left over from another car so I will be turning it down with the fuel pressure reg
-all new fuel lines tucked inside the car with the www.chasebaysonline.com fuel line kit with the inline trick flow filter

EXHAUST
-I currently have skunk 2 pro series exhaust with a type r header and the stock cat, but will be getting a s2 cat delete and a comptech or s2 header


with the ls vtec setup I have now I dynoed 205 at the wheels with a built head and a stock block with 78,xxx on the stock block, so I am hoping with all of this and some extensive tuning I can hit around 240-250 at the wheels (maybe just a pipe dream) but we will c how it goes.

^^ nice build.

205whp on just a built head is not doing too shabby! good shit.

alldatJUICE wrote:^^ nice build.

205whp on just a built head is not doing too shabby! good shit.

thanks man, yeah the cams and the cam timing is what made it, the type r header realy helped out to but to get what I want out of the b20 is a good comptech or skunk2 header.

Your header choices are rubbish. If you really want to make power you will need to get a better header.

SMSP
Rage
Hy-tech
Bisi
DTR/SSR

does anybody tried to use k20a pistons into a b16a block? i have seen this mod few days ago, i was shocked