Page 1 of 1

rebuilt motor knocking???

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 1:58 pm
by {ikon}EM1
So my lsv is only about 2000miles old I bought it from a shop that rebuilt the motor... the motor is knocking like crazy... I checked the oil and its fine...

If u recall I got into an accident and had my car redone on the outside... my question is could have the shock of the accident may have unballenced my motor??? And could that cause this???

I need help I don't know what to do :(

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:04 pm
by poorman type-r
Oil starvation = Spun rod bearing

Guess the shop doesn't know how to build motors.

:(

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 7:03 pm
by {ikon}EM1
It has oil... what else could it be???

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:12 pm
by Fada Blayne
I doubt the accident caused it. Wat compression are u running?
If possible upload a video

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:13 pm
by Fada Blayne
Not trying to be nosy but just let us know the complete setup ur running. Internals,etc

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:49 pm
by {ikon}EM1
Ill post a vid of it when I get home after work today... as far as set up is concerned its a factory rebuilt b18b1 block and a rebuilt b18c1 head... so its all stock parts with a type r oil pump...

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:31 pm
by ghskid06
pull your oil pan and see what you see. You sure your oil pump is working properly?

Once hondas start knocking the crank is usually finished :thumbdown:

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 3:14 pm
by {ikon}EM1
^^^Yea that's what im thinking too.…

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:03 pm
by {ikon}EM1
Ok so here's what's going on.. took it to the shop to see what we can do... the shop checked it out and said all the berings were shot... and its either rebuilding the motor again or put a jdm b20 bottom end...

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:20 pm
by forcefedEG
If your lsv just has stock pistons id say get a b20, if it has si or type r pistons id rebuild what you have just my .02.....

A fried Had a stock jdm .b20v and turned it to 8500 all stock in The bottom (for almost 2 years) and it ran great, we later tore it down for a high comp. Build and it looked great inside

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 6:04 pm
by {ikon}EM1
True...the lsv had stock internals...

they also said the b20 will have all stock bottom with my gsr head... it will be cheaper to do that then rebuild another block

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 6:32 pm
by chrono404
if you get a B20 or ls bottom end, make sure its a newer then 1996 bottom end. all 96+ bottom ends have VTEC oilpumps in them. Just have to put in arp rod bolts, gsr timing belt and water pump and the bottom end is pretty much vtec ready. Of course Arp head bolts as well is highly recommended.

b20 Torque is awesome. I LOVE the torque of my b20. However if I was looking to build an engine I would recommend an 96+ ls bottom end due to the more availability of 81mm pistons and the extra 3mm of cylinder walls. Its an extra 33% that the b20's dont have. Once you put your engine together make sure to get a Re-tune by a good shop. :thumb:

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 6:54 pm
by {ikon}EM1
Thanks for the heads up... ill make sure its a 96+ bottom...

and as far as the extra 33% goes for the ls bottom im not really looking for any changing of the pistons or anything of that nature im looking for reliability and longevity in this next motor...

Im done with putting together things that I don't need and having problems with them later... all im going to do when I get it back is retune it for the b20 and call it a day...

Stock is the best way for me right now...

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:49 pm
by forcefedEG
All of the b20's that fit our cars are 96+ spec so no worrys there

If you do arp rod bolts you need to re-size and balance the rods as well

the only other b20's were the b20a wich came in about an 89 prelude si. They were junk and look like an h series