B16, B18, B20
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By TNFBandit
#249783
d-mon wrote:
TNFBandit wrote:ok so in checking my timing i understand the concept but how do i know when #1 is top dead center with out pulling my head?

there's a mark on the lower timing belt cover.
rotate the crankshaft CCW until it lines that up with the white mark on the crank pulley


ok simple enough, so i went to my car and...no white mark on my crankshaft pulley. just a hole and 4 dash marks. then where is the mark on the plastic? is it a line?
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By ghskid06
#249808
TNFBandit wrote:
d-mon wrote:
TNFBandit wrote:ok so in checking my timing i understand the concept but how do i know when #1 is top dead center with out pulling my head?

there's a mark on the lower timing belt cover.
rotate the crankshaft CCW until it lines that up with the white mark on the crank pulley


ok simple enough, so i went to my car and...no white mark on my crankshaft pulley. just a hole and 4 dash marks. then where is the mark on the plastic? is it a line?


Unfortunately if it was your timing i doubt putting oil in would have made any difference at all.

However depending on the amount of oil you put in its possible that you got false readings. I think the rule of thumb is about one tablespoon in each cylinder.

The line might not still be white but it should still be there (the first dash that is spaced a little before the other 4). Just might have to really clean the pully good before its visable. The mark on the cover is a petruding peice of plastic i think on your engine it'd be around 12 o'clock.
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By TNFBandit
#249817
ghskid06 wrote:The line might not still be white but it should still be there (the first dash that is spaced a little before the other 4). Just might have to really clean the pully good before its visable. The mark on the cover is a petruding peice of plastic i think on your engine it'd be around 12 o'clock.


all 4 lines are evenly spaced like a clock 12,3,6,9 but one has a hole next to it
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By Eg6H2D
#249821 What he meant on the crank pulley you should see something to this. obviously this here isnt round but here is the concept..



I I I I I


^

THIS LINE RIGHT THERE SHOULD BE TOP DEAD CENTER (WHEN PISTON #1 HAS REACHED THE TOP). OR IF YOU HAVEE LIKE A 10IN 3/8" EXTENTION OR REALLY LONG SCREW DRIVER. PUT IT IN THE SPARK PLUG HOLE #1 NEXT TOT HE TIMING BELT. TURN THE CRANK TOWARDS THE FRONT BUMPER(COUNTER CLOCK WISE) AND ONE THE EXTENSION OR THE SCREW DRIVER U HAVE IN THERE REACHES THE TOP OR STICKS OUT THE MOST IT CAN U HAVE REACHED tdc AND THEN GO LOOK AT THE CRANK SEE IF IT'S LINED UP THE THE LIL ARROW PIECE UP POPED UP PLASTIC ON THE LOVER TIMING COVER. hOPE THE HELPED..
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By ghskid06
#249826 Also the marks are on the outer edge of the pulley.

Heres a pic.

Image
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By TNFBandit
#249828 ok well, its right on... #1 was TDC and the arrows were up.

i guess what i know what i'm doing this week, weekend, next week, next weekend and prob the week and weekend after that, LOL!

pulling the engine and completely rebuilding...ugh!
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By TNFBandit
#249833 does anybody know a good place to get an engine rebuild kit?
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By ghskid06
#249834 sorry dude. If you were closer id come over and help you do it.
Assuming your compression guage is functioning and was tight when you checked the first time though the numbers do not lie. I hope the rebuild goes well for you.

Definitely pop that head off and have a look. Its possible that someone put the head on wrong and the cylinders are all leaking into each other or something.
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By TNFBandit
#249845
ghskid06 wrote:sorry dude. If you were closer id come over and help you do it.
Assuming your compression guage is functioning and was tight when you checked the first time though the numbers do not lie. I hope the rebuild goes well for you.

Definitely pop that head off and have a look. Its possible that someone put the head on wrong and the cylinders are all leaking into each other or something.


it is a brand new compression tester, so it better not be bad...lol.

why dont you take some vacation, its been beautiful weather up here in ND...lol!

but i'll keep this updated as i keep moving or just start a new engine rebuild thread or just update my build thread...one of the three
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By ghskid06
#249846
TNFBandit wrote:does anybody know a good place to get an engine rebuild kit?


Sorry missed this comment. It depends, if your looking for a stock rebuild kit just check prices between oreillys advanced and autozone. If you want something aftermarket i can only recoment shopping around.


lol, i wish i could take some time off. Id love to go on a vacation. Yes, def keep something updated.
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By Eg6H2D
#249850
TNFBandit wrote:
ghskid06 wrote:sorry dude. If you were closer id come over and help you do it.
Assuming your compression guage is functioning and was tight when you checked the first time though the numbers do not lie. I hope the rebuild goes well for you.

Definitely pop that head off and have a look. Its possible that someone put the head on wrong and the cylinders are all leaking into each other or something.


it is a brand new compression tester, so it better not be bad...lol.

why dont you take some vacation, its been beautiful weather up here in ND...lol!

but i'll keep this updated as i keep moving or just start a new engine rebuild thread or just update my build thread...one of the three


OEM honda head gasket!!!! Pistons id go with this guy here very reputable!! if your going oem!!

http://stores.ebay.com/Uyuni-Sales/B18- ... 34.c0.m322
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By d-mon
#249974 maybe somebody put the head on without the dowel pins
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By TNFBandit
#250638 ok, little update...i borrowed a cherry picker and a engine stand from a buddy (can keep it for a while too) and got in my rings, bearings, head gasket, oil pan gasket, water pump (i think it was leaking anyway) and on order are some arp head studs...they were only $30 more then the stock ones. :thumb:

but the reason the engine isnt out yet is cause the temp droped again and it started snowing...GOD I HATE NORTH DAKOTA!!! :x
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By ghskid06
#250682 Dude. The weather has been crazy this spring. Hopefully it clears. Then u can get started.