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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 4:24 pm
by suspendedHatch
I don't buy that. People will spend more than that for a 5 lug conversion, RHD front clip, a bodykit, some baller rims and tires that aren't streetable, or for a carbon fiber hood and trunk lid. All of these things do absolutely nothing as far as making your car faster.

By comparison an AEM EMS allows you to run any ignition, sensors, and injector size you want. It has built in boost and nitrous control. Wide open throttle shifting. Allows for staged injection. And it's good for about a 10% power increase across the entire power band while offering up about 5-7mpg if tuned properly.

The internet scene is all about looking fast not being fast and that's why you wont see an AEM EMS outside of the race track.

(Tell the old man to shut up and step down from the soapbox.) :x

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 4:48 pm
by ej2rey
suspendedHatch wrote:I don't buy that. People will spend more than that for a 5 lug conversion, RHD front clip, a bodykit, some baller rims and tires that aren't streetable, or for a carbon fiber hood and trunk lid. All of these things do absolutely nothing as far as making your car faster.

By comparison an AEM EMS allows you to run any ignition, sensors, and injector size you want. It has built in boost and nitrous control. Wide open throttle shifting. Allows for staged injection. And it's good for about a 10% power increase across the entire power band while offering up about 5-7mpg if tuned properly.

The internet scene is all about looking fast not being fast and that's why you wont see an AEM EMS outside of the race track.

(Tell the old man to shut up and step down from the soapbox.) :x


True that man. Am with you on that one. That's why I hope to own an ems sumtime soon. Hopefully by the time I start on my turbo set up at the beginning of the year I can save up for one. I would love to do the coild pack conversion.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:05 pm
by LowTEC-Derbo
I would LOVE AEM EMS. smog checks every 2 years, dictates I shouldn't on the new gsr I just got. I need to stay stock. I would've got this if my civic was still running.



I just did another valve adjustment on my gsr and with that tool, it probably took all of 30minutes from move the car to the driveway and test driving. :)

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:14 pm
by suspendedHatch
LowTEC you should have took some pics and made a B series version.

Anyone looking to get an AEM EMS I should caution you that you need to find a capable tuner ahead of time. I wouldn't trust anyone that tunes Hondas exclusively.

You can teach yourself in about a years time but keep it so that you can swap the factory ECU back in whenever. I drove around on the stock ECU with a wideband gauge for about 3 months so that I could get an idea of how the factory sets up the air/fuel ratio under different loads and RPM.

PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:01 pm
by VegasCivic
As an alternative to using the adjustment tool, is it possible to use a wrench and screwdriver?

PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:06 pm
by marvinp8700
VegasCivic wrote:As an alternative to using the adjustment tool, is it possible to use a wrench and screwdriver?

indeed it is :thumb:

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:16 pm
by suspendedHatch
You could also use a butter knife and a pair of pliers. :?

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:19 pm
by egsedanguy
i used this and worked good

PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:29 pm
by {ikon}EM1
Will this be the same with a b series motor???

PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:45 pm
by Ajax1989
{ikon}EM1 wrote:Will this be the same with a b series motor???


look in the diy there is a b serise :thumb:

PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 1:10 am
by 603 jdm
i just wanted to say thank you alot because this helped me do my b7 she idles 100x better now and doesnt smoke oil anymore :woot:

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:39 pm
by jdm_boi
oh crap, sometimes we do valve jobs just after cooling down the car for maybe an hour or so.. nice write up sir

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 5:05 pm
by tat2
I just did mine, on every single adjuster it was already tighter than the correct tolerances, i reset every one to 007"/009", and it sounded worse than before......

Also, when cold i have one single clattering noise from the cylinder head area, which is louder than the rest of the valvetrain noise, which quietens down after warming up, but is definitely still there. My motors only on 68k miles, any ideas??

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:54 pm
by undeadone069
if the valves aren't ajusted at all would it cause the motor to skip and go dead?

PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 5:03 pm
by HungRealLow21
any way to get the pics up again??