D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
User avatar
By Virux
#357412 As some of you know, the D15B7 pulley does not have the hex cutout to use a removal tool. Although I have a decent compressor, I don't have a big ass 3/4 impact gun capable of 600+lb/ft; and I'm sure most people don't.

I finally got mine off, after several attempts including:
- Nylon string in the cylinders(I didn't want to drop my piston too far risking string in my ports)
- Strap wrapped around crank with rubber hose for grip and tied around motor mount(slipped)
- Chain going from pulley to tow hook (engine moved forward)
- Chain going from pulley to suspension post thing into the frame (engine moved backwards)
- Combo of above two methods (didn't work)

Here's the video with the method I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egXIuGtxnMc

Soak the bolt in PB, then the first thing you need to do is get any hardware out of the way. Jack your car up, USE A JACK STAND on the side to keep it up. Then take the jack with a decent piece of wood and gently support the oil pan. You need a piece of wood that will distribute the weight. Now take off the side bracket for the engine mount, this is necessary so your ratchet/cheater bar has room to swivel. Then you'll need to move the PS/AC stuff.

Next, you need to find something strong that will fit in the pulley holes. I'll call this the pulley holder.
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The video uses a big allen key, I happened to have some bolts that were perfect for this. I used long skinny ones before that bent, so get something solid. If it bends inside the pulley you have a new problem. Then, you need to find a chain with links big enough for the pulley holder to fit through. I went to ace hardware and got 3ft cut of I think 5/8th" chain for $12. Now wrap it around your engine mount, I used one of those spikey bolts to pin it. Then drop the other end down and pin your pulley holder into a hole in the middle.

Make sure you're using a good 1/2" ratchet and socket. I was using a Mac 3/8" like an idiot, with two 3ft cheater bars, and snapped the ratchet(we didn't have 17mm in 1/2 lol). Once I got a 1/2 it came right off.

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Last edited by Virux on Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By TrailerTrash
#357416 thats an awesome technique. but it wont work for everyone because not all crankpulleys have the holes in them like that.

the way i got mine off was putting the car in 5th(clutch out) with the wheels on the ground and a 2nd person holding the steering wheel and brakes very firmly so nothing moves. then using a big ol breaker bar with a cheater pipe. im pretty sure i had to put the spare dounut tire on to give me room.

im pretty sure if the car is automatic you can just put it in park with the tires on the ground and it shouldnt move.
User avatar
By Virux
#357419
TrailerTrash wrote:thats an awesome technique. but it wont work for everyone because not all crankpulleys have the holes in them like that.

Well, it should work on all the D15B7's at least. I think most without the holes have the removal tool cutout.

TrailerTrash wrote:the way i got mine off was putting the car in 5th(clutch out) with the wheels on the ground and a 2nd person holding the steering wheel and brakes very firmly so nothing moves. then using a big ol breaker bar with a cheater pipe. im pretty sure i had to put the spare dounut tire on to give me room.

Good to know, I was searching so much and nobody seemed to mention that method. I already had my motor mount bracket off to get to the AC and the engine supported, also didn't have a 1/2 extension to go from the side. I had my ratchet/bar coming up through the engine bay. I probably would have tried that first if I knew this was gonna' be such a pain. haha
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By teal_dx
#357420 Well that's a new way I haven't seen before. I'll add this to the DIY list :thumb:

TrailerTrash - I have done it your way, also works great :cheers: