D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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By Gimme Wafflez
#354420 okay guys, so I have a few issues I want to try figuring out. I think for the most part I know what I need to do but it would help to have more opinions.

First off, the head gasket. I'm more than positive I need to do a Head gasket and put some new head bolts in. The engine seems to be consuming the coolant as I need to fill it up just about everytime I drive it. With the radiator cap off bubbles just keep coming up and out of the filler neck. I'm thinking of just ordering the Head Gasket and Bolts on Rockauto.com

Should these be fine? on a bit of a budget, unfortunately..

gasket: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/morein ... 450&jpid=1

Bolts: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/morein ... 451&jpid=0


second, I think i'm having an issue with my radiator cap. When i drive for an extended period of time the coolant flows into the overflow tank as it should but after the engine cools the coolant doesn't flow back over into the radiator. I have to open the overflow and remove some coolant before driving again or the pressure pushes the coolant out of the overflow tank and makes a huge mess under the hood.

third, my idle started fluctuating after i adjusted the idle screw. It was idling a bit low so i turned it up a bit. the next day I went to start my car and had some trouble getting it to turn over, although it starts up pretty easy now, Since then the idle goes up and down and i seem to have a loss of power. here's a video of the idle: Strange Idle

I can't think of anything else for now but if something pops up i'll add it :(
Last edited by Gimme Wafflez on Sun Jun 28, 2015 3:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By TrailerTrash
#354421 that head gasket and bolt set should be just fine for your needs.

the idle problem is most likely connected to the head gasket problem because the leaky head gasket is forcing air into the coolant system and the IACV relies on a properly bled air free coolant system to function properly.

and no doubt the overflow problem is being caused by the head gasket aswell.

this is what i would do it i was you.
drain all the coolant out. then replace the head gasket, head bolts, radiator cap, thermostat, and flush the radiator

and while you are doing all that its a perfect time to replace the water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.

i know you said you are on a budget but its better safe than sorry man
User avatar
By Gimme Wafflez
#354424 i definitely agree with that. i think ill do those while i'm at it :thumb:
User avatar
By suspendedHatch
#354433 If you adjust the screw without putting the ECU into diagnostic mode and then resetting it afterward, you'll have all kinds of problems. The ECU is normally maintaining the idle to a certain RPM,you put it in diagnostic mode so it's not making changes in response to you turning the screw. Reset it and it will remember the initial setting as a new baseline and work from there.
User avatar
By suspendedHatch
#354434 Any gasket from RockAuto should be fine. For head bolts you should go with ARP. I don't think they're much more expensive. They're reusable, so if you don't do the job right and decide to do it again, you're not stuck with stretched head bolts and having to replace them.
User avatar
By Gimme Wafflez
#354449
suspendedHatch wrote:If you adjust the screw without putting the ECU into diagnostic mode and then resetting it afterward, you'll have all kinds of problems. The ECU is normally maintaining the idle to a certain RPM,you put it in diagnostic mode so it's not making changes in response to you turning the screw. Reset it and it will remember the initial setting as a new baseline and work from there.


man I didn't even think of resetting the ecu. I'll try that tomorrow. yeah, I agree on the arp studs. i might as well since you can reuse them