D15B7 (non vtec) Swap to D16Y8 or D16Z6 Questions

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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D15B7 (non vtec) Swap to D16Y8 or D16Z6 Questions

By pyang004
- Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:55 am #341568 Hey guys just want to get some confirmation on this. Was looking through a lot of searches and not all the information could be found in one search. Mechanically I'm able, but I'm not too familiar with Honda specs.

I have a 1995 Civic DX Sedan with a automatic transmission. The motor is pretty much shot. My sister blew a radiator hose and kept driving until the car overheated. Engine is not running too well now.
D15B7 non vtec engine with 102 HP.

So I'm looking into a possible engine swap that's easy and gives me a little more power. I have to keep the transmission an automatic so my 2 sisters can drive it. That means, no B-Series. I came up with these 2:

D16Z6
92-95 Civic Ex/Si vtec with 125 HP. OBD1 ECU.
Since both engines are from the same cars this should be a direct swap. Other than wiring the vtec solenoid and using a P28 ECU.
Is there anything else I'm missing here?

D16Y8
96-00 Civic EX vtec with 127 HP. OBD2 ECU.
From what I gather this is "pretty much" a direct swap as well. Again, other than wiring the vtec solenoid and P28 ECU. I read somewhere about differences in knock sensor and MAP sensor? I read in most posts that some plugs/wire don't need to be hooked up or hoses don't need to be connect for the engine to run. But I want to make sure Everything is able to be plugged up and look as stock as possible. I'm just not sure on the little, if any, differences this engine might have with the 92-95 chassis.

Another concern I have is the car's ability to pass California smog with these swaps. My smog guy won't dock me on the visual, but will charge extra for the sniffer. As long as I connect everything on the D16Z6, it should have no problems passing other than the visuals correct? It's the D16Y8 I'm more questionable about because I'm not sure of the slight differences it might have. I rather try to pay the regular smog fee, rather than the 150% mark up.

I think that's everything... Let me know if I missed anything. And please add any comments that will help.

Thanks.
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By teal_dx
- Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:36 pm #341581 I'd keep it as simple as possible and dgo with the OBD1 D16z6. Get an auto P28 and you're good to go - all plug & play plus the vtec wiring.

If you find a deal on a y8, it's not much more difficult. You'll also use a P28, just ignore the knock, 2nd o2, ckf sensors. The distributor will have the OBD2 plug, but rather than re-pin to fit your obd1 harness, you can use the D15b7 distributor on a y8 head, as it is a direct fit.

y8 swap can get fuzzy depending on which year you use and if it's manual or auto. Autos have the IACV built into the throttle body, manuals have them on the back of the intake manifold, like obd1 motors. You said visual isn't a problem, but y8 has the evap purge valve and a couple extra vaccum lines (cold start assist on 99-00 motors) that you'll need to bypass for use in OBD1.

Also note if your d15b7 has the map sensor mounted on the firewall or throttle body. For the easiest swap, be sure your z6 has the same map. :thumb:

As far as smog goes... unless they're running the sniffer above 5k rpm, I don't think there will be much difference in emissions. Things like cat, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, timing etc will all make a bigger difference on the sniffer.

By pyang004
- Sun Feb 09, 2014 1:03 am #342386 Okay, so I've been engine shopping for a D16Z6 and ran into a couple of more concerns. Again, I've searched with no clear solutions.

1) Seeing that I'm changing from a D15 to a D16 some of the engines I've found don't have certain accessories (alternator, power steering pump, a/c compressor, etc).
Will I be able to use these parts from my D15 on the D16 engine, if needed?
Alternator, belt, bracket
Power steering pump, belt, bracket, pressure hose, return hose
A/c compressor, belt, bracket, both hoses
Motor mount, tranny mount

2) JDM engine from a shop. I've bought engines from these importer shops before and sometimes they don't have the exact engine from the exact car I need it for. Having to swap JDM accessories for US parts. Again, alternators, power steering pump, a/c compressors, etc. I dealt with different intake manifolds, different accessory brackets, different number of teeth on pullies, etc.
Do I have to worry about buying US parts before installing or replacing them down the line?

I just wanna make sure I have everything when I do the swap and try to get it all done at once. I don't want to wait for parts to come in or wait for something to show up on craigslist. I do shop regularly at the junkyards, but the hondas are always picked pretty clean.
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By teal_dx
- Sun Feb 09, 2014 1:57 am #342387 Will I be able to use these parts from my D15 on the D16 engine, if needed?
Alternator, - yes
belt, - may need a new belt
bracket - I think you will need the bracket that matches the z6 block you're using, Not sure if others will fit.
Power steering pump, - yes
belt, - yes
bracket, I think you will need the bracket that matches the z6 head you're using, Not sure if others will fit.
pressure hose, - yes
return hose - yes
A/c compressor, - yes
belt, - may need a new belt
bracket, pretty sure you'll need one for a d16z6
both hoses - yes
Motor mount, - yes
tranny mount - yes, since you're keeping the car auto.

By pyang004
- Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:19 am #343879 So I ended up buying a 1996+ JDM D15 for $650. I couldn't find a used D16 v-tec in time. A D16 v-tec at the shop was $900. I couldn't justify the price difference for v-tec.

I swapped everything over from my 1995 D15 engine to the JDM D15. Everything, means everything. I got it down to just the valve cover, head, block, and oil pan.

All the sensors were swapped because I knew they worked in the old 95 D15. I don't know if they worked in the new JDM D15. Or if the sensors were JDM spec and would not read with my USDM ecu. Better to be safe than sorry. Some of the location of the sensors are a pain to get to with the engine in the car.

Spark plugs from my old engine was used in the new engine. They were replaced not too long ago, so I didn't need to buy a new set. My distributor cap and rotor were also new and they fit in the JDM D15 as well. There is only 2 teeth on the part of the distributor that goes into the head. Both teeth are different, so it should only fit in one way. If it doesn't fit, turn it around 180 degrees. It should fit flush with the 3 mounting screw brackets. The 92-95 D15 spark plug wires do not work with the JDM D15 or 96+ D16 engines. The spark plugs on the 95 D15 is on the intake manifold side. The JDM D15 are located on the headers side. The 95 D15 wires are too big and will not fit down the JDM D15 hole that leads down into the spark plugs. *That's what she said... I had to buy 96+ spark plug wires. The 96+ spark plug wires plug into the 92-95 distributor but, the rubber caps do not full seal over the connector. I found this out when I degreased the engine and touched the distributor cap when it was wet. Got a good shock from it with the engine running.

The 92-95 valve cover gasket works on the JDM D15. I don't know about the oil pan gasket. I assume they are the same as well. I will find out later when I get additional funds.

The engine mount on the crank side was different and so was the crank pulley. The timing belt on my old 95 D15 engine was done not too long ago so, I re-used all of that. It's recommended that the timing belt and water should be done on the new used engine. The engine mount under the timing belt cover have the same mounting holes, but the JDM D15 timing belt cover has to be cut to fit around the 95 D15 engine mount. Both engines use the same timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. The 95 D15 crank pulley has 3 teeths on the alternator, a/c compressor, and power steering pump. The JDM D15 crank pulley has only 2 teeth on the power steering pump. Any 92-98 D series crank pulley will fit on the crank, but the JDM D15 timing belt cover has to be cut to fit the USDM crank pulley. The JDM D15 timing belt cover had to be cut around the crank pulley hole to fit the 92-98 D series pulley. I'm not sure if the 95 D15 timing belt cover would fit the JDM D15 engine. I didn't try because the JDM D15 oil dip stick was located next to the cover and was mounted to it. The 95 D15 oil dip stick is located in between the headers. The 96+ D16 cover might work with the JDM D15 engine because both have the same oil dip stick location. The 96+ D16 timing belt cover will probably not need to be cut to fit the USDM crank pulley.

*While I'm talking about this area. I would recommend changing out the crank main seal and the rear main seal. After I got everything put back together the crank main seal starting leaking oil after the engine warmed up. Now I have to take the timing belt off while the engine is in the car to change out the crank main seal. Hopefully my rear main seal does not leak, because I would have to take the transmission off.

The alternator, a/c compressor, and power steering pump all mounted in the same locations. They all used the same hoses. They all used the same mounting bracket. *The only one I had problems with was the power steering bracket. The 3 bolts that mounted to the headers side of the engine fit fine, but I could not fit the bolt that connected to the engine mount. So I just left that one out. The mount is plenty strong with out it. Another problem with the bracket was that it hit the engine in one spot, so the 3 bolts that connected to the engine did not sit flush. I had to grind 1/2 inch on the bracket where it was hitting the engine. The power steering pump sits perfectly aligned with the crank pulley after all that.

The OEM headers are different on both engine. Which changes the location of the O2 sensor. I just used my old headers and down pipe with a new gasket.

My automatic transmission bolted up with no problems. Used my old torque convertor and flywheel.

The intake manifold and throttle body are different. So are all the hose location. I swapped all of it over and got new hoses with worm clamps. Position all the worm clamps so that I can get to them later when I need to. Be careful not to break any hose nipples. I broke 2 and had to go to the junkyard to get replacements. I broke a coolant one on the throttle body and the other on hose to the black oil box thingy under the intake manifold. I swapped out the thermostat to my old one along with the housing and metal pipe to the water pump. These pieces have different coolant hose location and must be matched with the intake manifold you are using. I got new seals and o rings for everything. Used blue RTV sealant for anything with water and red RTV sealant with anything with oil.

That pretty much covers everything I had to do to change my 95 D15 non v-tec engine with a 96+ JDM D15 non v-tec engine. The engine fired right up. The valve are clicking, but that is to be expected with an engine that has not had oil in it for the last 10+ years. Once the engine gets to run for awhile hopefully everything will get lubed and the ticking will go away. If not I will just use thicker oil. I haven't gotten to drive it to find out. During idle warm up to check all the fluids I found a leak under the crank pulley. I'm assuming it is a main crack pulley seal leak. I'm just waiting for some free time to change out the seal.

*While the engine was out of the car I replace the power steering rack and pinion. The old one had bad inner tie rods that would shake the car at 70+ mph. New poly mounts for the rack and pinion as well and new outer tie rod ends. I also degreased the engine bay and changed all the leaky power steering hoses and replaced all the stock spring clamps with worm clamps. No more leaks.... hopefully. Replace the lifetime warranty alternator that has been giving me low voltage readings as well. The only thing I haven't gone around to changing is the a/c compressor and power steering pump.

**By the time the new crank seal came in the oil settle down and I couldn't confirm if it was the crank seal or the cam seal that was leaking. The oil on top of the crank looked like it could've been the timing belt pulling the oil up. I installed the new crank seal with a OEM Honda part. Did not want to risk a aftermarket Autozone part. It's a lot of work to get to the seal. Ran the engine hot and it was still leaking the same. With the engnie turned off and the cam cover off, it was hard to tell if the cam seal was leaking looking through the hole on the cam gear with a flash light. I left the cam cover off and ran the engine. Again with a flash light I can see the entire cam seal easier now. It has a timing gun effect. The entire seal was coated in oil and I can tell it was seeping. Ordered a new Honda cam seal and waiting for it to come in now. Gotta do the valve adjustment while I'm doing this too.
Last edited by pyang004 on Fri Apr 04, 2014 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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